Structural activity relationship analysis (SAR) and in vitro testing reveal the anti-ageing potential activity of acetyl aspartic acid.

BACKGROUND: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap), aiming for identification of new compounds with anti-ageing properties. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to use structural activity relationship (SAR) analysis to identify a predictive mechanism of action of A-A-A. The findings from SAR will be further characterized by in vitro activity testing. Furthermore, we aimed to investigate the role of polymerized filamentous F-actin in ageing fibroblasts and to evaluate the effect of A-A-A on this model. METHODS: To predict the mode of action of A-A-A, we used the PASS computer program as a SAR model. In vitro, scratch motility tests with immortalized keratinocytes were used as a model for wound healing potential. Matrix metalloproteinase 1-3 (MMP 1-3) was analysed using multiplex protein assays (Luminex), and polymerized actin was detected by phalloidin staining in dermal fibroblasts (HDF). RESULTS: SAR analysis predicted that A-A-A would possess both epidermal and dermal activities with identification of wound healing and MMP inhibition potential. Further in vitro studies confirmed the wound healing potential using keratinocyte scratch motility assays. We were also able to confirm the dermal activities predicted by inhibition of MMP (MMP 1-3) in HDF by A-A-A. In addition, we found a positive relationship between age and F-actin expression. We also discovered that stimulation of HDF with A-A-A for 72 h significantly reduced the polymerized cytoskeletal network as visualized by inhibition of F-actin expression. In fact, A-A-A leveraged the expression of F-actin in middle-aged female fibroblasts (50 years of age) to the level of young female fibroblasts (30 years of age), corresponding to a 40% reduction in F-actin expression. CONCLUSION: Using an in silico and in vitro approach, we were able to demonstrate that A-A-A has the capacity to target different compartments of the skin through keratinocyte regeneration, MMP inhibition and relief in fibroblasts stiffness by reduction of F-actin cytoskeletal network in HDF.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness.

OBJECTIVE: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study. METHOD: Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness. RESULTS: Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient. CONCLUSION: In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

The use of gene arrays and corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti-ageing ingredients.

OBJECTIVE: The need for effective 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photodamaged skin, prompted us to develop a novel method to identify new active ingredients. The model utilized a gene profiling study with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti-ageing compounds using all-trans retinoic acid (RA) as the lead compound due to its beneficial effect on photodamaged skin and skin firmness. METHOD: A vehicle-controlled clinical study including nine healthy Caucasian female volunteers aged 57 ± 7 (mean ± SEM) exhibiting photodamage on their lower outer forearms was conducted. The volunteers applied RA once daily on photodamaged skin for 7 days, and biopsies were subjected to Affymetrix gene arrays. Connectivity mapping (Cmap), examining hundreds of gene expression profiles, was run on the gene signature of RA-treated photodamaged skin to identify small bioactive compounds. RESULTS: Affymetrix gene array identified 19 genes significantly differentially expressed after application of RA. Corresponding Cmap analysis revealed six natural bioactive compounds including N-acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) showing similar activity to RA on the differentially expressed genes identified. CONCLUSION: Based on RA mimicking gene array activity, potential use within skincare on molecular size, safety assessment and sourcing, we identified the natural amino acid, A-A-A as a potential candidate to treat ageing skin.

Transcriptional changes in organoculture of full-thickness human skin following topical application of all-trans retinoic acid.

In this study, we developed an organoculture of human skin to investigate the effect of topical applied all-trans retinoic acid using a gene array approach. We could by using this approach confirm previous studies on genes activated by RA in keratinocyte monocultures and also provide new insights on genes that are relevant to RA-activation in human skin. The results in the present study show this model represent a valuable pre-clinical model for studying the effects of retinoids in skin.