Predicting Chronological Age via the Skin Volatile Profile.

Skin volatile emissions offer a noninvasive insight into metabolic activity within the body as well as the skin microbiome and specific volatile compounds have been shown to correlate with age, albeit only in a few small studies. Building on this, here skin volatiles were collected and analyzed in a healthy participant study (n = 60) using a robust headspace-solid phase microextraction (HS-SPME) gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) workflow. Following processing, 18 identified compounds were deemed suitable for this study. These were classified according to gender influences and their correlations with age were investigated. Finally, 6 volatiles (of both endogenous and exogenous origin) were identified as significantly changing in abundance with participant age (p < 0.1). The potential origins of these dysregulations are discussed. Multiple linear regression (MLR) analysis was employed to model age based on these significant volatiles as independent variables, along with gender. Our analysis shows that skin volatiles show a strong predictive ability for age (explained variance of 68%), stronger than other biochemical measures collected in this study (skin surface pH, water content) which are understood to vary with chronological age. Overall, this work provides new insights into the impact of aging on the skin volatile profiles which comprises both endogenously and exogenously derived volatile compounds. It goes toward demonstrating the biological significance of skin volatiles and will help pave the way for more rigorous consideration of the healthy "baseline" skin volatile profile in volatilomics-based health diagnostics development going forward.

Sensory signature of lignins, new generation of bio-based ingredients in cosmetics.

Lignins represent a high interest in cosmetics as promising multifunctional ingredients. Despite this, uncovering the sensory profile of lignin-based emulsions has remained an unexplored frontier. This study aims to bridge this gap by employing expert sensory evaluation and instrumental characterization to assess the sensory attributes of lignin-based emulsions. A comparative analysis with commercial tinted products and discrimination among lignin derivatives were integral components of the research. Results underscored the distinctive sensory properties of lignin emulsions, exhibiting significantly higher "Integrity of shape" (7.0 ± 0.1) compared to commercial products (4.8 ± 0.1). Additionally, lignin emulsions displayed longer play-time until skin absorption (4.3 ± 0.1), contrasting with the quicker absorption of commercial products (2.7 ± 0.4) and their shorter play-time. Depending on application requirements, lignin derivatives offer formulators a versatile sensory toolbox. Discrimination of lignin emulsions on certain texture properties was achieved using various instrumental tools. Despite the complex formulation of commercial products compared to lignin emulsions, similar texture properties were observed, showcasing lignins' potential to replace multiple ingredients in tinted cosmetics. Beyond their established antioxidant, anti-UV, anti-bacterial, and emulsifying properties, this study reveals additional advantageous sensory properties of lignins, positioning them as promising plant-based sensory ingredients in sustainable cosmetic applications.

An upcycled fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil regenerates the skin through the skin melatonin pathway and improves sleep quality.

BACKGROUND: Sleep is one of the most important factors affecting overall health. During the night, the skin repairs damage caused by daily stresses. Melatonin plays a key role in this process. Toxins are removed, and cellular repair and growth hormone production are increased. Inter alia, this also decreases signs of intrinsic aging. AIMS: The current study was intended to demonstrate the impact of a unique fraction of Melaleuca alternifolia (FMA) essential oil, on sleep and skin quality. METHODS: The effect of FMA was investigated in vitro on skin cells, evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and in an ex-vivo study on human skin biopsies treated with FMA following stress induction. In addition, two clinical studies were performed on volunteers with life-style-related sleep complaints. In one study, sleep was measured using a noncontact monitoring device (SleepScore Labs, Max). A second study was conducted to assess skin anti-aging effects. RESULTS: In vitro application of FMA reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in skin cells. This was confirmed ex vivo through a decrease in inflammatory markers and an increase in antioxidant enzymes after stress induction. Interestingly, FMA also upregulated melatonin-associated genes. Real-world sleep tracking revealed that FMA significantly improved sleep quality, relative to unscented control. In vivo applications also showed a reduction in signs of aging. CONCLUSION: These results provide initial data to suggest that this unique FMA delivers skin anti-aging benefits via a two-pronged mode of action, improving sleep quality, and reducing skin inflammatory and oxidative stress.

Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition.

OBJECTIVE: A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract. METHODS: The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro-CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analysed by LC-MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated. RESULT: Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro-CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease in sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analysed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase in Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decrease in pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health. CONCLUSION: The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition.

OBJECTIF: Un facteur important et peu étudié pouvant mener à l'apparition des pellicules ou des cheveux gras est la qualité intrinsèque du stratum corneum (SC) du cuir chevelu, souvent déséquilibré et susceptible aux agressions. L'inflammation joue un rôle clé dans l'état de santé du cuir chevelu et par conséquent du cheveu. Les médiateurs lipidiques pro-résolution (SPMs) ont été étudiés dans la peau pour mettre fin au processus inflammatoire et promouvoir la régénération des tissus. Cependant, aucune étude n'avait été réalisée sur le cuir chevelu. Cette étude vise donc à étudier l'expression des SPMs et leurs rôles dans l'amélioration de l'intégrité du cuir chevelu et de l'apparence des cheveux en utilisant un extrait de Anetholea anisita. MÉTHODES: Les propriétés antioxydantes et anti-inflammatoires de l'Anetholea anisita ont été étudiées in vitro sur les cellules papillaires folliculaires dermiques humaines (HFDPC) par fluorescence et ELISA. La mesure ex vivo du volume des glandes sébacées du cuir chevelu humain a été réalisée par microtomographie à rayons X (micro-CT). L'extrait a ensuite été cliniquement testé sur des volontaires présentant des pellicules et des cheveux gras. Le sébum des volontaires a été prélevé sur le cuir chevelu et analysé par LC-MS/MS ou ELISA pour identifier les SPMs et les marqueurs pro-inflammatoires. L'intégrité du cuir chevelu a ensuite été évaluée en mesurant le pH et la perte en eau transépidermique. La production de sébum, les pellicules et la brillance des cheveux ont également été évalués. RÉSULTATS: L'extrait d'Anetholea anisita a réduit la production d'IL-8 et d'espèces réactives oxygénées sur HFDPC. Cet extrait a également diminué le volume des glandes sébacées. Ce résultat a été confirmé in vivo avec une diminution de la production de sébum chez les volontaires. De plus, les SPMs ont été analysés et détectés pour la première fois sur le cuir chevelu. Une augmentation de la Lipoxine B4 (LxB4) ainsi que des Resolvines D1 et D2 (RvD1 et RvD2) a été observée après le traitement par Anetholea anisita en plus d'une diminution de l'expression des médiateurs pro-inflammatoires tels que PGE2, LTB4 et IL-8. Par conséquent, la barrière du cuir chevelu a été renforcée comme observé avec une diminution de la PIE et un ajustement pH de la surface du scalp, réduisant les pellicules et améliorant la santé des cheveux. CONCLUSION: Les résultats obtenus montrent qu'un extrait d'Anetholea anisita permet d'améliorer la santé du cuir chevelu en ciblant les voies de l'inflammation et de la résolution permettant ainsi de renforcer la barrière du cuir chevelu, pour diminuer les pellicules et améliorer l'état des cheveux.

Evaluation of adhesion, proliferation, and functional differentiation of dermal fibroblasts on glycosaminoglycan-coated polysulfone membranes.

It may be hypothesized that wound healing will benefit from polymer membranes coated with extracellular matrix macromolecules. Here we describe the behavior of dermal fibroblasts on polysulfone (PSU) membranes, and PSU membranes covered with chitosan (Ch), chondroitin sulfate (CS), or hyaluronan, using an additional intermediary ionic charge modification with poly-(acrylonitrile-co-methallyl sulfonate) (AN69), which allows binding of the polysaccharidic macromolecules. Cell adhesion, proliferation, cell signaling, and collagen gene expression were investigated. Ch and CS were found unable to support cell adhesion and proliferation. In contrast, both PSU and hyaluronic acid-coated PSU membranes appeared as suitable materials to culture fibroblasts and support their matrix synthesis capacity. Moreover, they induce type III collagen expression in addition to type I, suggesting that they promote a fetal-like environment that could be beneficial for wound healing.

Nocturnal expression of phosphorylated-ERK1/2 in gastrin-releasing peptide neurons of the rat suprachiasmatic nucleus.

Extracellular regulated kinase (ERK) signalling is believed to play roles in various aspects of circadian clock mechanisms. In this study, we show in rat that the nuclear versus cytoplasmic intracellular distribution of the phosphorylated forms of ERK1/2 (P-ERK1/2) in the central clock, namely the suprachiasmatic nucleus (SCN), is proportionally constant across the light/dark cycle while the spatial distribution and neurochemical phenotype of cells expressing these activated forms are time-regulated according to a daily rhythm and light-regulated. P-ERK1/2 was exclusively found in neuronal elements. At daytime, it was detected throughout the dorsoventral extent of the SCN, partly within neurons synthesizing either arginine-vasopressin or vasoactive intestinal peptide (VIP). At night time, it was segregated in the ventrolateral aspect of the nucleus, within a cluster of cells 45% of which were gastrin-releasing peptide (GRP) neurons with or without co-localization with VIP. After a light pulse at night, expression of P-ERK1/2 increased in GRP neurons but also appeared in a population of neurons that stained for VIP only. These data show that the GRP neurons are closely associated with ERK1/2 activation at night and point to the importance of ERK1/2 signalling not only in intra-SCN transmission of photic information but also in maintenance of neuronal rhythms in the SCN.