L-Rhamnose and Phenolic Esters-Based Monocatenar and Bolaform Amphiphiles: Eco-Compatible Synthesis and Determination of Their Antioxidant, Eliciting and Cytotoxic Properties.

Symmetrical and dissymmetrical bolaforms were prepared with good to high yields from unsaturated L-rhamnosides and phenolic esters (ferulic, phloretic, coumaric, sinapic and caffeic) using two eco-compatible synthetic strategies involving glycosylation, enzymatic synthesis and cross-metathesis under microwave activation. The plant-eliciting activity of these new compounds was investigated in Arabidopsis model plants. We found that the monocatenar rhamnosides and bolaforms activate the plant immune system with a response depending on the carbon chain length and the nature of the hydrophilic heads. Their respective antioxidant activities were also evaluated, as well as their cytotoxic properties on dermal cells for cosmetic uses. We showed that phenolic ester-based compounds present good antioxidant activities and that their cytotoxicity is low. These properties are also dependent on the carbon chains used.

Encapsulation of Vitamin C by Glycerol-Derived Dendrimers, Their Interaction with Biomimetic Models of Stratum corneum and Their Cytotoxicity.

Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.

Synthesis and Activity of Ionic Antioxidant-Functionalized PAMAMs and PPIs Dendrimers.

For this study, new dendrimers were prepared from poly(propylene imine) (PPI) and polyamidoamine (PAMAM) dendrimers using an efficient acid-base reaction with various phenolic acids. The syntheses were also optimized in both microwave and microfluidic reactors. These ionic and hydrophilic dendrimers were fully characterized and showed excellent antioxidant properties. Their cytotoxic properties have been also determined in the case of fibroblast dermal cells.