Kaempferol tetrasaccharides restore skin atrophy via PDK1 inhibition in human skin cells and tissues: Bench and clinical studies.

Skin aging is a major risk factor for the dermal diseases, and interventions to attenuate cellular senescence are expected to reduce the risk for age-related diseases involving skin atrophy. However, blocking cell death or extending proliferation causally results in side effects and an increased cancer risk. For identification of a safer approach, we focused on PDK1 inhibition, which could revert cellular senescence and reduce senescence factors in skin in vitro, in a human skin equivalent model and in an exploratory, placebo-controlled, interventional trial. Natural phytochemical kaempferol tetrasaccharides resulted in a significant reduction in cellular senescence, and an increase in collagen fiber was observed in the skin cell and human skin equivalent. Clinical enhancement in skin appearance was noted in multiple participants, and an immunohistochemical study revealed improvement in the histological appearance of skin tissue and extracellular matrix. This change was associated with relative improvement in histological markers of senescence and clinical appearance of the aged skin and an increase in collagen fiber, an essential factor for preventing skin atrophy and consistency of the basement membrane. These results indicate that PDK1 inhibition is a potentially effective antiaging intervention, suggesting a diagnostic role and preventive actions of PDK1 in senescence-associated skin atrophy.

Panax ginseng-Derived Extracellular Vesicles Facilitate Anti-Senescence Effects in Human Skin Cells: An Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Way to Use Ginseng Substances.

Ginseng is a traditional herbal medicine in eastern Asian countries. Most active constituents in ginseng are prepared via fermentation or organic acid pretreatment. Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are released by most organisms from prokaryotes to eukaryotes and play central roles in intra- and inter-species communications. Plants produce EVs upon exposure to microbes; however, their direct functions and utility for human health are barely known, except for being proposed as delivery vehicles. In this study, we isolated EVs from ginseng roots (GrEVs) or the culture supernatants of ginseng cells (GcEVs) derived from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer and investigated their biological effects on human skin cells. GrEV or GcEV treatments improved the replicative senescent or senescence-associated pigmented phenotypes of human dermal fibroblasts or ultraviolet B radiation-treated human melanocytes, respectively, by downregulating senescence-associated molecules and/or melanogenesis-related proteins. Based on comprehensive lipidomic analysis using liquid chromatography mass spectrometry, the lipidomic profile of GrEVs differed from that of the parental root extracts, showing significant increases in 70 of 188 identified lipid species and prominent increases in diacylglycerols, some phospholipids (phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, lysophosphatidylcholine), and sphingomyelin, revealing their unique vesicular properties. Therefore, our results imply that GEVs represent a novel type of bioactive and sustainable nanomaterials that can be applied to human tissues for improving tissue conditions and targeted delivery of active constituents.

Chitosan-Alginate-Pectin-coated Suspended-Liquid-Encapsulating (CAPSuLE) marbles for therapeutic agent storage and delivery.

Developing a cutting-edge system capable of ensuring long-lasting functionality of therapeutic agents and implementing diverse delivery modes is challenging. A quasi-spherical triple-layered capsule containing suspended liquid droplets and allowing multi-modal delivery of therapeutic agents in the aqueous phase was developed, primarily by adopting the core principles for creating liquid marbles. A naturally derived wettable polysaccharide-pectin-was utilized as a liquid-air interfacial barrier to keep the liquid droplets in the core zone. To tailor the pectin-coated droplet as a therapeutic agent carrier, anionic alginate and cationic chitosan layers were sequentially formed via additional interactions: physically stacking substances with structural chirality (pectin-alginate) and inducing electrostatic association to create the reversible complex coacervates (alginate-chitosan). The resulting system, which is called a Chitosan-Alginate-Pectin-coated Suspended-Liquid-Encapsulating (CAPSuLE) marble, had sufficient mechanical strength to resist external harsh environments and exhibited unique features: ecofriendly sustainability, responsiveness to external stimuli, coacervate-driven coalescence for linking adjacent marbles, and a self-repairing ability. The proposed CAPSuLE system can facilitate the adoption of the liquid-marble concept to biomedical fields, extending its applicability in the fields of biology and applied engineering.

Smart Cellulose Nanofluids Produced by Tunable Hydrophobic Association of Polymer-Grafted Cellulose Nanocrystals.

Cellulose fibrils, unique plant-derived semicrystalline nanomaterials with exceptional mechanical properties, have significant potential for rheology modification of complex fluids due to their ability to form a physically associated semiflexible fibrillary network. Here, we report new associative cellulose nanocrystals (ACNCs) with stress-responsive rheological behaviors in an aqueous solution. The surface-mediated living radical polymerization was employed to graft poly(stearyl methacrylate-co-2-methacryloxyethyl phosphorylcholine) brushes onto the nanofibrils, and then 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl radical (TEMPO)-mediated oxidation was conducted to produce nanoscale ACNCs in the aqueous solution. The ACNCs displayed interfibril association driven by the hydrophobic interaction that resulted in the formation of a nanofibrillar crystalline gel phase. We observed that the viscosity of the ACNC fluid showed reversible shear thinning and temperature-induced thickening in response to applied shear stress and thermal shock. Moreover, thanks to generation of a mechanically robust nanofibrillar crystalline gel network, the ACNC suspension showed extraordinary stability to changes in salinity and pH. These results highlighted that the interfibril hydrophobic association of ACNCs was vital and played an essential role in regulation of stimuli-responsive sol-gel transitions.

Rhododenol and raspberry ketone impair the normal proliferation of melanocytes through reactive oxygen species-dependent activation of GADD45.

Rhododenol or rhododendrol (RD, 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol) occurs naturally in many plants along with raspberry ketone (RK, 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone), a ketone derivative, which include Nikko maple tree (Acer nikoense) and white birch (Betula platyphylla). De-pigmenting activity of RD was discovered and it was used as a brightening ingredient for the skin whitening cosmetics. Recently, cosmetics containing RD were withdrawn from the market because a number of consumers developed leukoderma, inflammation and erythema on their face, neck and hands. Here, we explored the mechanism underlying the toxicity of RD and RK against melanocytes using B16F10 murine melanoma cells and human primary epidermal melanocytes. Treatment with RD or RK resulted in the decreased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner which appeared from cell growth arrest. Consistently, ROS generation was significantly increased by RD or RK as determined by DCF-enhanced fluorescence. An antioxidant enzyme, glutathione peroxidase was depleted as well. In line with ROS generation, oxidative damages and the arrest of normal cell proliferation, GADD genes (Growth Arrest and DNA Damage) that include GADD45 and GADD153, were significantly up-regulated. Prevention of ROS generation with an anti-oxidant, N-acetylcysteine (NAC) significantly rescued RD and RK-suppressed melanocyte proliferation. Consistently, up-regulation of GADD45 and GADD153 was significantly attenuated by NAC, suggesting that increased ROS and the resultant growth arrest of melanocytes may contribute to RD and RK-induced leukoderma.

Different effects of five depigmentary compounds, rhododendrol, raspberry ketone, monobenzone, rucinol and AP736 on melanogenesis and viability of human epidermal melanocytes.

Numerous medications are used to treat hyperpigmentation. However, several reports have indicated that repeated application of some agents, such as rhododendrol (RD), raspberry ketone (RK) and monobenzone (MB), can be toxic to melanocytes. Although these agents had severe side effects in human trials, no current in vitro methods can predict the safety of such drugs. This study assessed the in vitro effects of five depigmentary compounds including leukoderma-inducing agents. In particular, we determined the effects of different concentrations and exposure times of different depigmentary agents on cell viability and melanogenesis in the presence and absence of ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. Concentrations of RD, RK and MB that inhibit melanogenesis are similar to concentrations that are cytotoxic; however, concentrations of rucinol (RC) and AP736 that inhibit melanogenesis are much lower than concentrations that are cytotoxic. Furthermore, the concentrations that cause toxic effects depend on exposure duration, and prolonged exposure to RD, RK and MB had more cytotoxic effects than prolonged exposure to RC and AP736. The cytotoxic effects of RD and RK appear to be mediated by apoptosis due to increased expression of caspase-3 and caspase-8; UVB radiation increased the cytotoxicity of these agents and also increased caspase activity. Our results indicate that different leukoderma-inducing compounds have different effects on the viability of normal epidermal melanocytes and suggest that the in vitro assay used here can be used to predict whether an investigational compound that induces leukoderma may lead to adverse effects in human trials.

Antimelanogenic activity of a novel adamantyl benzylbenzamide derivative, AP736: a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled comparative clinical trial performed in patients with hyperpigmentation during the summer.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: AP736 is a novel compound with an adamantyl benzylbenzamide moiety that has shown antimelanogenic activity in melanocytes in vitro and in artificial skin equivalent through the inhibition of key melanogenic enzymes and suppression of the cAMP-phosphokinase A-cAMP response element-binding protein signaling pathway. To estimate the clinical effectiveness of AP736 for the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation, we examined the efficacy and safety of a topical formulation containing AP736 compared with a vehicle formulation in human facial skin. To evaluate the degree of whitening when used in a real-life situation, subjects with hyperpigmentation conditions were selected and the trial was performed from mid-May to the end of June, when there are strong UV rays in Korea. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Forty-eight healthy Korean women aged 20-60 years were enrolled in this study for 6 weeks. Women who were pregnant or undergoing any concurrent therapy were excluded. Subjects were instructed to apply a randomly assigned formulation containing 0.5% AP736 (test formulation; n = 24) or vehicle (vehicle control; n = 24) in addition to an assigned sunscreen with a twice-daily application protocol. The degree of facial pigmentation was measured objectively using a Mexameter MX18 and Chromameter CM700, in addition to assessment by physicians using clinical photographs. RESULTS: The AP736 formulation was significantly (P < 0.05) more effective than the vehicle control formation in reducing the appearance of pigmentation at 3- and 6-week follow-up visits. CONCLUSION: A formulation containing a novel skin whitening ingredient, AP736, effectively reduced pigmentation and was well tolerated by study subjects in summer season.

3D-QSAR study of adamantyl N-benzylbenzamides as melanogenesis inhibitors.

Three-dimensional quantitative structure-activity relationship (3D-QSAR) modeling, comparative molecular field analysis (CoMFA), and comparative molecular similarity indices analysis (CoMSIA) of polyhydroxylated N-benzylbenzamide derivatives containing an adamantyl moiety were performed to understand the mechanism of action and structure-activity relationship of these compounds. Contour map analysis indicated that steric contributions of the adamantyl moiety and electrostatic contributions of the hydroxyl group at the 3-position are important in the activity. Activities of the training set and test sets predicted by CoMFA fit well with actual activities, demonstrating that CoMFA, along with the best calculated q(2) value, has the best predictive ability.

A novel adamantyl benzylbenzamide derivative, AP736, suppresses melanogenesis through the inhibition of cAMP-PKA-CREB-activated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase expression.

Melanogenesis is essential for the protection of skin against UV, but excessive production of melanin causes unaesthetic hyperpigmentation. Much effort is being made to develop effective depigmenting agents. Here, we found that a tyrosinase inhibitor, AP736 (5-adamantan-1-yl-N-(2,4-dihydroxy-benzyl)-2,4-dimethoxy-benzamide) potently suppresses tyrosinase expression, and the mechanism underlying was elucidated. AP736 attenuated the melanin production induced by diverse melanogenic stimuli in murine and human melanocytes. It suppressed the expression of key melanogenic enzymes; tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 and tyrosinase-related protein-2. The expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MiTF), a major promoter of melanogenesis was also decreased. AP736 inhibited the activation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and phosphokinase A (PKA), and cAMP elevation, reflecting that cAMP-PKA-CREB signalling axis was suppressed, resulting in the downregulation of MiTF and tyrosinase. Along with the previously reported tyrosinase inhibitory activity, the suppression of cAMP-PKA-CREB-mediated MiTF and tyrosinase expression by AP736 may be efficient for the treatment for hyperpigmentation.

Syk/Src pathway-targeted inhibition of skin inflammatory responses by carnosic acid.

Carnosic acid (CA) is a diterpene compound exhibiting antioxidative, anticancer, anti-angiogenic, anti-inflammatory, anti-metabolic disorder, and hepatoprotective and neuroprotective activities. In this study, the effect of CA on various skin inflammatory responses and its inhibitory mechanism were examined. CA strongly suppressed the production of IL-6, IL-8, and MCP-1 from keratinocyte HaCaT cells stimulated with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and retinoic acid (RA). In addition, CA blocked the release of nitric oxide (NO), tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) from RAW264.7 cells activated by the toll-like receptor (TLR)-2 ligands, Gram-positive bacterium-derived peptidoglycan (PGN) and pam3CSK, and the TLR4 ligand, Gram-negative bacterium-derived lipopolysaccharide (LPS). CA arrested the growth of dermatitis-inducing Gram-positive and Gram-negative microorganisms such Propionibacterium acnes, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus. CA also blocked the nuclear translocation of nuclear factor (NF)-κB and its upstream signaling including Syk/Src, phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K), Akt, inhibitor of κBα (IκBα) kinase (IKK), and IκBα for NF-κB activation. Kinase assays revealed that Syk could be direct enzymatic target of CA in its anti-inflammatory action. Therefore, our data strongly suggest the potential of CA as an anti-inflammatory drug against skin inflammatory responses with Src/NF-κB inhibitory properties.

Depigmenting activity of new kojic acid derivative obtained as a side product in the synthesis of cinnamate of kojic acid.

We synthesized cinnamate derivatives of kojic acid for use as depigmenting agents by various esterification methods. The cinnamate of 5-position of kojic acid (6) was obtained by EDC coupling, DCC coupling, acid chloride, and mixed anhydride methods. To obtain the cinnamate of the 2-position of kojic acid (7), we carried out the nucleophilic addition of the potassium salt of cinnamic acid to kojyl chloride. In this reaction, we discovered the occurrence of a side reaction and identified the structure of the side product thus formed. We evaluated the depigmenting activities of both the side product and the cinnamate derivatives of kojic acid. Interestingly, the side product (11) showed more potent depigmenting activity (IC(50)=23.51µM) than compound 7 (IC(50)>100µM) which is the mother compound of the side product. However, it has no tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Compound 6, the cinnamate of 5-position of kojic acid, also showed moderate depigmenting activity (IC(50)=46.64µM) without tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Production of this side product (11) may have originated from the proton exchange between the potassium salt of cinnamic acid and kojyl chloride. We then efficiently reduced the yield of the side product by controlling the equilibrium of the potassium salt of cinnamic acid. The addition of cinnamic acid greatly reduced the amount of the side product produced.

Adamantyl N-benzylbenzamide: new series of depigmentation agents with tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

A new series of polyhydroxylated N-benzylbenzamide derivatives containing an adamantyl moiety has been synthesized, and the depigmenting and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of the molecules were evaluated. The lipophilic character of the adamantyl moiety appeared to confer greater depigmentation power on the benzamide derivatives as compared to those lacking adamantyl substitution. Molecular modeling was applied in order to elucidate the interactions between ligands and tyrosinase that led to inhibition.

Inhibitory activity of novel kojic acid derivative containing trolox moiety on melanogenesis.

A novel kojic acid derivative containing a trolox moiety, (±)-5-hydroxy-4-oxo-4H-pyran-2-yl methyl 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylate (3a), was synthesized. The two biologically active compounds, namely, kojic acid and trolox, were conjugated via an ester bond as they are expected to behave synergistically. The antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of this novel kojic acid derivative on melanogenesis were evaluated. Compound 3a exhibited potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity and radical scavenging activity. Limited structure-activity relationship (SAR) investigations indicated that the tyrosinase inhibitory activities may originate from the kojic acid moiety, and the radical scavenging activity may be due to the phenolic hydroxyl group of trolox. Compound 3a also exhibited potent depigmenting activity in a cell-based assay. The limited SAR investigations revealed that the depigmenting activity of 3a may be due to the synergistic activities of kojic acid and its trolox moiety.

Studies on depigmenting activities of dihydroxyl benzamide derivatives containing adamantane moiety.

Six diphenolic compounds containing adamantane moiety were synthesized and evaluated as potent inhibitors on tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in Melan-A cells. The inhibitory activity of 4-adamantyl resorcinol 1 was similar to that of 4-n-butyl resorcinol in both assays. However, dihydroxyl benzamide derivatives 6a-e showed different inhibitory patterns. All derivatives significantly suppressed the cellular melanin formation without tyrosinase inhibitory activities. These behaviors indicated that the introduction of amide bond changes the binding mode of dihydroxyl groups to tyrosinase. Among derivatives, 6d (3,4-dihydroxyl compound) and 6e (2,3-dihydroxyl compound) showed stronger inhibitory activities (IC(50)=1.25 microM and 0.73 microM, respectively) as compared to 4-n-butyl resorcinol (IC(50)=21.64 microM) and hydroquinone (IC(50)=3.97 microM). This study showed that the position of dihydroxyl substituent at aromatic ring is important for the intercellular inhibition of melanin formation, and also amide linkage and adamantane moiety enhance the inhibition.

Development of 5-[(3-aminopropyl)phosphinooxy]-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one as a novel whitening agent.

A stable derivative of kojic acid, 5-[(3-aminopropyl)phosphinooxy]-2-(hydroxymethyl)-4H-pyran-4-one (Kojyl-APPA), was synthesized in good yield. The effects of Kojyl-APPA on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis were investigated. Kojyl-APPA showed tyrosinase inhibition effect (30%) in situ, but not in vitro. Kojyl-APPA inhibited tyrosinase activity significantly at 24 h after treatment in normal human melanocytes. It means that Kojyl-APPA is not a direct inhibitor of tyrosinase itself, but it is converted to a potential inhibitor kojic acid enzymatically in cells. In addition, Kojyl-APPA decreased melanin content to 75% of control in melanoma cells and decreased neomelanin synthesis to 43% of control in normal human melanocytes. Its permeation through skin increased by about 8 times as compared with kojic acid.