Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study.

Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm(2)) and determination of their respective sizes in mm(2). Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally refected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having "enlarged pores" like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore's morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed.

Solar exposure(s) and facial clinical signs of aging in Chinese women: impacts upon age perception.

A new reference clinical atlas of facial signs dedicated to photoaging was applied to 301 Chinese women of various ages through standardized photographs. Such approach aimed at better describing the facial changes induced by both real/chronological age and sun exposure and their respective impact on two subcohorts of different behavior with regard to sun exposure. A total of 28 various facial signs were individually graded according to their severity by a panel of experts, and a perceived apparent age of each subject was assessed. Results showed that the severity of major signs significantly increased rather linearly with age, with a higher rate in sun-exposed subjects as compared with subjects who regularly avoid sun exposure. The severity of facial signs, all impacted by sun exposure, better correlated with perceived apparent age than real/chronological age. The protocol used in the present work, similar to that previously applied to two cohorts of French women, assigned a greater impact of sun exposure in the facial aging signs of Asian women - all clinical signs are influenced by extrinsic factors - as compared with Caucasian women of comparable ages, likely related to much more intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

Effect of the sun on visible clinical signs of aging in Caucasian skin.

OBJECTIVES: AGING SIGNS CAN BE CLASSIFIED INTO FOUR MAIN CATEGORIES: wrinkles/texture, lack of firmness of cutaneous tissues (ptosis), vascular disorders, and pigmentation heterogeneities. During a lifetime, skin will change in appearance and structure not only because of chronological and intrinsic processes but also due to several external factors such as gravity, sun and ultraviolet exposure, and high levels of pollution; or lifestyle factors that have important and obvious effects on skin aging, such as diet, tobacco, illness, or stress. The effect of these external factors leads to progressive degradations of tegument that appear with different kinetics. The aim of this study was to clinically quantify the effect of sun exposure on facial aging in terms of the appearance of new specific signs or in terms of increasing the classical signs of aging. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This study was carried out on 298 Caucasian women from 30 years to 78 years old. The participants were divided into two groups according to their sun exposure history: 157 women were characterized as sun-seeking, and the other 141 were classified as sun-phobic. This division was made possible by dermatologist grading of heliodermal status on the basis of several observations of classic criteria: wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation heterogeneities, vascular disorders, elastosis, and so on. This work was an opportunity to complete clinical photographic tools by adding in our portfolio new scales for signs observed in the two groups. Thus, 22 clinical parameters were investigated by a panel of twelve trained experts to characterize each woman's face regarding standardized photographic scales, and thus describe the aging process. RESULTS: By calculating statistical correlations between the four clinical clusters (wrinkles/texture, ptosis, vascular disorders, and pigmentation disorders), and real age and apparent age on the one hand and heliodermal status on the other hand, we identified a link between each clinical cluster and aging and the photoaging process. By comparing evaluations of clinical signs between the two groups for each 10-year cluster, we demonstrated that whatever the age, a prevalence of pigmentation disorders for the sun-seeking group (ie, pigmentation) is strongly linked to ultraviolet (UV) exposure. Meanwhile, clinical signs of ptosis are linked more to chronological aging and do not present differences between the two groups, nor, therefore, photoaging. Wrinkles and texture are affected by the two aging processes. Finally, clinical signs of vascular disorders present no evolution with age. CONCLUSION: Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs.

Seasonal skin darkening in Chinese women: the Shanghaiese experience of daily sun protection.

The facial skin tone of two groups of Chinese women from Shanghai was compared using standard colorimetric space techniques during a 6-month interval between January and July 2011. During the study period, one group of women (n = 40) applied a potent sun-protective cosmetic product daily, while the other group (n = 40) did not use any sun protection. The results, based on images taken using a standardized digital camera coupled to a spectroradiometer, showed that sun protection largely mitigated changes in the components of skin tone, ie, lightness, melanization, and individual typology angle parameters. The skin darkening process appeared to be reduced or prevented in the sun-protected group when compared with the control group. The sun-protected women had participated in an earlier study in 2008, which confirmed that seasonal skin darkening occurs from winter through summer in Shanghaiese women. Comparing the data obtained in the winters of 2008 and 2011, we were able to identify better the impact of 3 years of aging on the components of skin tone. Comparing data between seasons on the same women with (2011 study) and without (2008 study) sun protection highlights the role of the test product in preventing skin darkening.

Longitudinal study of skin aging: from microrelief to wrinkles.

AIM: To study the changes in skin microrelief and periocular wrinkles during the aging process. METHODS: Replicas of the crow's feet area of volunteers were recorded in 1987 and 2008 and observed comparatively. Characteristic features were quantified by image analysis. RESULTS: Observation shows that some microrelief features disappear and even merge with wrinkles that become more marked. Some primary lines also tend to merge to form thin new wrinkles. Quantitative data support these observations: the size of small and medium objects of skin relief decreases with age while large objects are becoming larger. CONCLUSION: Over 21 years, in the group studied, the total area of the detected objects remains quite constant. Only the distribution between small and large detected objects (microrelief features and wrinkles, respectively) is modified.

Photoaging of the chest analyzed by capacitance imaging.

OBJECTIVE: Capacitance imaging is a new technique using sensors based on silicon technology developed to record fingerprints for security reasons. Applying such a sensor onto the skin surface gives the capacitance (hydration) map of the skin surface with a two-dimensional resolution of 50 microm. This method was used to characterize skin of the chests of 64 women with various grades of skin photoaging. METHOD: The severity of photoaging of the chest skin of 64 women was clinically assessed according to a six-grade scale. Capacitance images of the skin were recorded and analyzed in terms of mean capacitance, homogeneity of gray levels and density of microrelief lines. Capacitance images of the adjacent unexposed area (upper part of the breast) were also recorded and analyzed for comparison. Pictures of the different areas were recorded. RESULTS: Microrelief line density decreases with the age of the volunteers but is independent of the severity of photoaging. Mean hydration of the skin surface is found to be independent of both photoaging severity and age. Evenness of hydration is a parameter markedly linked to the severity of photoaging independent of age. Uneven hydration is related to the juxtaposition of both hydrated and dry areas corresponding to some hyperpigmented and hyperkeratosic areas. Moreover, capacitance images reveal that some of the hyperpigmented areas may exhibit under- or over-hydrated conditions depending on the nature of the lesion. CONCLUSION: Irregular skin surface hydration is an important characteristic of skin photoaging. It is related to skin pigmentation but does not parallel its unevenness of pigmentation.

Influence of age on the wrinkling capacities of skin.

BACKGROUND: Comparisons of clinical assessment with measurement of physical parameters are rare. OBJECTIVE: To standardize the horizontal wrinkling of the skin in order to define a reference chart of the different wrinkling grades and to propose an interpretation of the clinical pattern in terms of skin layers thickness and mechanical parameters. METHODS: A device allowing reproducible wrinkling of the skin was made. The skin folds created in this way were clinically assessed on women of different ages. Measurements of the mechanical properties of the skin were carried out by using a Torquemeter. Skin layers' thicknesses were measured by using in vivo Confocal Microscopy (CM) and Ultrasound Imaging (B mode). RESULTS: Skin wrinkling grades increase versus age. Skin elasticity, extensibility and echogenicity decrease also versus age and the wrinkling grade. Wrinkling appears to be related to skin rigidification (for both stratum corneum and dermis) coupled to a certain weakening of the upper dermis (loss of echogenicity). CONCLUSION: This study points out the key role of the age-related alterations of the upper dermis in skin wrinkling capacities.

A computational skin model: fold and wrinkle formation.

This paper presents a computational model for studying the mechanical properties of skin with aging. In particular, attention is given to the folding capacity of skin, which may be manifested as wrinkles. The simulation provides visual results demonstrating the form and density of folds under the various conditions. This can help in the consideration of proper measures for a cosmetic product for the skin.