Photostability of sunscreen products influences the efficiency of protection with regard to UV-induced genotoxic or photoageing-related endpoints.

BACKGROUND: Acute as well as chronic sun exposure induces biologically damaging effects in skin including photoageing and cancer. Ultraviolet (UV)A radiation is involved in this process; it is therefore important that sunscreen products provide efficient and stable protection in this range of wavelengths. OBJECTIVES: This study based on in vitro approaches was performed to demonstrate that photostability is an essential requirement to protect against UVA-induced genetic and dermal alterations. METHODS: The protection afforded by two sunscreen products, differing with regard to their photostability, was studied using biological markers related to the genotoxic or photoageing impact of UVA or simulated solar UV radiation (UV-SSR). Comet assay was used to assess direct DNA breakage, photo-oxidized purines and lomefloxacin-induced DNA breaks in nuclei of normal human keratinocytes in culture. In similar conditions, detection of p53 accumulation was performed. The use of reconstructed skin in vitro allowed us to use a three-dimensional model to analyse the dermal and epidermal damage induced by UVA or UV-SSR exposure. Abnormal morphological features of the tissue as well as fibroblast alterations and matrix metalloproteinase-1 release induced by UV exposure have been studied after topical application of products on the skin surface. RESULTS: The results showed that the photostable product afforded better protection with regard to all the criteria studied, compared with the photounstable product. CONCLUSIONS: These data demonstrate that the loss of absorbing efficiency within the UVA wavelength domain due to photoinstability may have detrimental consequences on cell function and lead to impairments that have been implicated in genotoxic events as well as in the photoageing process.

Fluoroquinolones as chemical tools to define a strategy for photogenotoxicity in vitro assessment.

Today's lifestyle is often associated with frequent exposure to sunlight, but some xenobiotics used in drugs, cosmetics or food chemicals can produce adverse biological effects when irradiated. In particular, they can increase the risk of photogenotoxicity already due to UV radiation itself. There is thus a need to design appropriate approaches in order to obtain relevant data at the molecular and cellular level in this field. For ethical and practical reasons, in vitro models can be very convenient at least for first evaluation tests. Here, we propose a strategy based on complementary experiments to study the photogenotoxic potential of a compound. The fluoroquinolones BAYy3118 and lomefloxacin were used as standards to demonstrate the performance of each test: photoinduced interaction with supercoiled circular DNA, photomutagenicity in the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisae, induction of DNA photodamage in cultured human skin cells as revealed by comet assay, and finally induction of specific phototoxic stress responses such as p53 activation or melanogenesis stimulation. Such a strategy should help to ensure the safety of products likely to undergo environmental sunlight exposure.

The human melanocyte as a particular target for UVA radiation and an endpoint for photoprotection assessment.

The induction of DNA breaks by UVA (320-400 nm) in the nucleus of normal human melanocytes in culture was investigated using single cell gel electrophoresis, also called the comet assay. Endogenous pigment and/or melanin-related molecules were found to enhance DNA breakage: comets were more intense in melanocytes than in fibroblasts, in cells with high melanin content or after stimulation of melanogenesis by supplying tyrosine in the culture medium. After UVA doses where strong comets were observed, neither cytotoxicity nor stimulation of tyrosinase activity were detected. However, the accumulation of p53 protein suggested that cells reacted to genotoxic stress under these experimental conditions. The same approach was used to compare two sunscreens with identical sun protection factors but different UVA protection factors. The results presented in this paper suggest that human melanocytes may be used as a target cell to evidence broadspectrum photoprotection. Moreover, these data appear to be helpful in getting a better understanding of the role of sunlight in the initiating steps of melanocyte transformation.

An in vitro strategy to evaluate the phototoxicity of solar UV at the molecular and cellular level: application to photoprotection assessment.

Skin cancers are among the most common human cancers and have an increasing incidence. The ultraviolet radiation components of sunlight play a major role in skin tumor induction and development. Cellular DNA has been identified as a target for most of the biological effects of UV, and the induction of photodamage is considered as the initiating step of photocarcinogenesis. Thus, effective photoprotection of DNA against harmful overex-posure to solar UV is a critical issue. The efficiency of a sunscreen is usually tested with respect to its ability to prevent skin erythema, but conceivably, more data are required at the molecular and cellular level in order to ascertain protection against photocarcinogenic risk. In the present study, we define a strategy based on the use of various in vitro models and solar-simulated light to evaluate photodamage and photoprotection: -Supercoiled circular plasmid DNA for detection of structural alterations. -The yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae to evaluate cytotoxicity and genotoxicity. -The single-cell gel electrophoresis or comet assay to determine DNA damage and DNA repair in human keratinocytes. -p53 expression as a hallmark for genotoxic stress. -Induction of pigmentation in human melanocytes. In conditions where light source, spectrum and control of radiation delivery were precisely defined, we have demonstrated that the wide spectrum UVA sunscreen Mexoryl SX protects from the cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of solar UV.