The impact of irritant challenge on the skin barrier and myeloid resident immune cells in post-menopausal women is modulated by hormone replacement therapy.

BACKGROUND: Sex hormone changes during menopausal transition contribute to declining skin health. However, how menopause and its treatment by hormone replacement therapy (HRT) impact the skin barrier and immune system is unclear. Therefore, we examined how menopause and HRT affect skin barrier and immune cell composition in post-menopausal women following irritant challenge. METHODS: Two cohorts of post-menopausal women were recruited to the study, one untreated (HRT-; n = 10; mean age 56.5 yrs [range 48-63 yrs]) and the other receiving HRT (n = 8; mean age 54 yrs [range 48-63 yrs]). Skin irritation was induced by applying 1.25% topical Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) to occluded buttock skin for 48 hours. Clinical assessment was conducted after 24 hours, followed by biopsy of both SLS-challenged and unchallenged skin for analysis of skin barrier proteins and immune cell distribution using immunofluorescence. RESULTS: Clinically, there were no significant differences in skin irritant responses between those taking or not taking HRT (including increased skin redness and blood flow). In response to SLS challenge a significant increase in trans-epidermal water loss (p<0.05), filaggrin deposition and keratin-10-positive cell layers (p<0.01) was observed in individuals receiving HRT compared to the HRT- group. Following SLS challenge in individuals taking HRT, a significant (p<0.01) reduction of CD207+ cells in the epidermis was observed, accompanied by an increase of CD207+ cells in the dermis, indicative of migrating Langerhans' cells (LCs). Significantly fewer migrating LCs were observed in those not receiving HRT (p<0.01). Furthermore, the number of dermal dendritic cells (DCs), macrophages, and CD11c+CD206- and CD68+CD206- subsets were found to be significantly (p<0.05) higher in those taking HRT following SLS challenge. CONCLUSION: Individuals receiving HRT displayed enhanced skin barrier response to SLS challenge with thicker filaggrin and increased keratin-10-positive epidermal cell layers. Following challenge, HRT users exhibited elevated counts of LCs, inflammatory DCs, and macrophages in the dermis. These may render skin both, more prone to inflammation and more capable of resolving it, while also promoting skin repair.

Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis. OBJECTIVES: To identify, using protease cleavage site prediction, novel putative matrikines with beneficial activities for skin composition and structure. METHODS: Here, we present an in silico (peptide cleavage prediction) to in vitro (proteomic and transcriptomic activity testing in cultured human dermal fibroblasts) to in vivo (short-term patch test and longer-term split-face clinical study) discovery pipeline, which enables the identification and characterization of peptides with differential activities. RESULTS: Using this pipeline we showed that cultured fibroblasts were responsive to all applied peptides, but their associated bioactivity was sequence-dependent. Based on bioactivity, toxicity and protein source, we further characterized a combination of two novel peptides, GPKG (glycine-proline-lysine-glycine) and LSVD (leucine-serine-valine-aspartate), that acted in vitro to enhance the transcription of matrix -organization and cell proliferation genes and in vivo (in a short-term patch test) to promote processes associated with epithelial and dermal maintenance and remodelling. Prolonged use of a formulation containing these peptides in a split-face clinical study led to significantly improved measures of crow's feet and firmness in a mixed population. CONCLUSIONS: This approach to peptide discovery and testing can identify new synthetic matrikines, providing insights into biological mechanisms of tissue homeostasis and repair and new pathways to clinical intervention.

Like other organs and tissues, the skin is composed of both cells and a complex network of molecules and proteins called an extracellular matrix. This matrix contains proteins such as collagen and elastin and undergoes many changes when the skin is damaged by the sun. We know from previous studies that small parts of matrix proteins (called peptide 'matrikines') can help to treat the signs of sun-related skin ageing. In this UK study, we show that new beneficial peptides (with matrikine activity) can be identified using machine learning (artificial intelligence) techniques that predict where common matrix proteins might be 'cut' by skin enzymes. Candidate peptides were first made in the laboratory and then applied to skin cells in culture. These cell culture screens demonstrated that, while all the peptides showed some matrikine activity, two were particularly promising. These two peptides were then tested in a short-term study on the forearm skin of volunteers and, in a longer-term study, on the face. We found that the combination of these two peptides can prompt forearm skin cells to express genes that are involved in many different aspect of skin health and, over the longer 6-month period, produce visible benefits in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and firmness on the face. Our findings suggest that this approach may be able to identify beneficial peptide treatments for not only skin ageing and diseases, but also unwanted changes in the extracellular matrix of other tissues and organs.

Did the evidence-based intervention (EBI) programme reduce inappropriate procedures, lessen unwarranted variation or lead to spill-over effects in the National Health Service?

BACKGROUND: Health systems are under pressure to maintain services within limited resources. The Evidence-Based Interventions (EBI) programme published a first list of guidelines in 2019, which aimed to reduce inappropriate use of interventions within the NHS in England, reducing potential harm and optimising the use of limited resources. Seventeen procedures were selected in the first round, published in April 2019. METHODS: We evaluated changes in the trends for each procedure after its inclusion in the EBI's first list of guidelines using interrupted time series analysis. We explored whether there was any evidence of spill-over effects onto related or substitute procedures, as well as exploring changes in geographical variation following the publication of national guidance. RESULTS: Most procedures were experiencing downward trends in the years prior to the launch of EBI. We found no evidence of a trend change in any of the 17 procedures following the introduction of the guidance. No evidence of spill-over increases in substitute or related procedures was found. Geographic variation in the number of procedures performed across English CCGs remained at similar levels before and after EBI. CONCLUSIONS: The EBI programme had little success in its aim to further reduce the use of the 17 procedures it deemed inappropriate in all or certain circumstances. Most procedure rates were already decreasing before EBI and all continued with a similar trend afterwards. Geographical variation in the number of procedures remained at a similar level post EBI. De-adoption of inappropriate care is essential in maintaining health systems across the world. However, further research is needed to explore context specific enablers and barriers to effective identification and de-adoption of such inappropriate health care to support future de-adoption endeavours.

Evaluating the benefit of early patient and public involvement for product development and testing with small companies.

INTRODUCTION: There is a growing understanding of the benefits of patient and public involvement (PPI), and its evaluation, in research. An online version of the CUBE PPI evaluation framework has been developed. We sought to use the CUBE to evaluate the value of early PPI with two small healthcare companies during product development. METHODS: Contributors were recruited online and had lived experience of either type 1 diabetes or obesity. Two 1-h sessions were run with a company developing a smartphone application to manage diabetes (DEE-EM): one with young people (YP; n = 5) and one with parents (n = 7). Two 1-h sessions were run with a company developing a weight-loss product, both with adults (n = 7 in each session). Sessions were facilitated by an independent University researcher and attended by company representatives, who presented their product. One facilitator led the evaluation of the session by giving a demonstration of the CUBE and asking simple questions in the YP session. RESULTS: A high proportion of contributors completed the CUBE (80.5% DEE-EM; 93% Oxford Medical Products). Responses were positive to all four CUBE dimensions (in italics). Contributors felt there were diverse ways to contribute to the sessions, and that they had a strong voice to add to the discussion. Balance was achieved regarding whose concerns (public or company) led the agenda, and contributors felt that both companies would make changes based on the discussion. The supportive attitude of both companies resulted in most contributors feeling comfortable participating in PPI sessions with the industry, while recognising the profit-making aspect of their work. CONCLUSIONS: PPI with small healthcare companies is both feasible and worthwhile. The CUBE framework facilitated the evaluation of the interaction between experts in different knowledge spaces. We provide recommendations for future projects, including considerations of who should participate and the level of implicit endorsement of the product that participation implies. PATIENT OR PUBLIC CONTRIBUTION: People with lived experience of type 1 diabetes or obesity were invited to contribute to one of four PPI sessions, which they then evaluated. One contributor agreed to contribute to the analysis of the evaluation data and interpretation and preparation of the manuscript.

Menopause induces changes to the stratum corneum ceramide profile, which are prevented by hormone replacement therapy.

The menopause can lead to epidermal changes that are alleviated by hormone replacement therapy (HRT). We hypothesise that these changes could relate to altered ceramide production, and that oestrogen may have a role in keratinocyte ceramide metabolism. White Caucasian women were recruited into three groups: pre-menopausal (n = 7), post-menopausal (n = 11) and post-menopausal taking HRT (n = 10). Blood samples were assessed for hormone levels, transepidermal water loss was measured to assess skin barrier function, and stratum corneum lipids were sampled from photoprotected buttock skin. Ceramides and sphingomyelins were analysed by ultraperformance liquid chromatography with electrospray ionisation and tandem mass spectrometry. Post-menopausal stratum corneum contained lower levels of ceramides, with shorter average length; changes that were not evident in the HRT group. Serum oestradiol correlated with ceramide abundance and length. Ceramides had shorter sphingoid bases, indicating altered de novo ceramide biosynthesis. Additionally, post-menopausal women had higher sphingomyelin levels, suggesting a possible effect on the hydrolysis pathway. Treatment of primary human keratinocytes with oestradiol (10 nM) increased production of CER[NS] and CER[NDS] ceramides, confirming an effect of oestrogen on cutaneous ceramide metabolism. Taken together, these data show perturbed stratum corneum lipids post-menopause, and a role for oestrogen in ceramide production.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol.

BACKGROUND: Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. OBJECTIVE: To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study. METHODS: For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly. RESULTS: Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ2 (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001). CONCLUSIONS: This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

CONTEXTE: Même si les produits de soins pour la peau à base de rétinol améliorent l'apparence de la peau photovieillie, il est nécessaire d'obtenir une concentration efficace de rétinol procurant des bénéfices cutanés sans irritation. OBJECTIF: Comparer l'efficacité du rétinol à 0.1%, 0.3% et 1% en application locale dans le remodelage de l'architecture cutanée dans une étude d'irritation cutanée in vivo expérimental, et déterminer la tolérance des formulations les plus efficaces lorsqu'elles sont utilisées dans une étude à doses progressives quotidiennes en cours d'utilisation. MÉTHODES: Pour l'étude d'irritation cutanée, des produits à base de rétinol ont été appliqués sous occlusion, sur le muscle extenseur de l'avant-bras de volontaires présentant des signes de photovieillissement (n = 5; tranche d'âge: 66 à 84 ans), et des biopsies cutanées de 3 mm ont été obtenues après 12 jours. Les effets des différentes concentrations de rétinol, et d'un véhicule témoin sur les principaux biomarqueurs épidermiques et dermiques de la prolifération cellulaire et du remodelage dermique ont été comparés à ceux observés à une région non traitée. Séparément, les participants (n = 218) ont enregistré leur tolérance au rétinol à 0.3% ou 1% au cours d'un schéma posologique approuvé de six semaines, qui a progressivement augmenté les applications faciales à une fois par nuit. RÉSULTATS: Le traitement par rétinol a induit une augmentation progressive de l'épaisseur épidermique, et a induit l'expression des protéines de la couche cornée, la filaggrine et le KPRP. Le rétinol à 0.3% et le rétinol à 1% étaient aussi efficaces pour induire la prolifération des kératinocytes dans l'épiderme, tout en réduisant l'expression de la cadhérine E. Le dépôt de microfibrilles riches en fibrilline a augmenté après un traitement par rétinol à 0.3% et 1% (p < 0.001). CONCLUSIONS: Cette étude suggère que les concentrations de rétinol de 1% et 0.3% étaient aussi efficaces pour remodeler la peau photolésée dans un modèle in vivo lors d'une utilisation à long terme. L'utilisation de rétinol à 0.3% dans l'étude à doses progressives a été associée à moins d'effets indésirables lorsqu'il est appliqué quotidiennement. Par conséquent, le rétinol à 0.3% peut être mieux toléré que le rétinol à 1%, permettant ainsi une application topique à plus long terme.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling.

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Elucidating the molecular landscape of the stratum corneum.

SignificanceSkin is recognized as an intricate assembly of molecular components, which facilitate cell signaling, metabolism, and protein synthesis mechanisms in order to offer protection, regulation, and sensation to the body. Our study takes significant steps to characterize in more detail the complex chemistry of the skin, in particular by generating a better understanding of the uppermost layer, the stratum corneum. Using a state-of-the-art 3D OrbiSIMS technique, we were able to observe the depth distribution, in situ, for a wide range of molecular species. This unprecedented molecular characterization of skin provides information that has the potential to benefit research into fundamental processes, such as those associated with skin aging and disease, and the development and delivery of effective topical formulations.

The abundance of microplastics in cnidaria and ctenophora in the North Sea.

Microplastic (MP) ingestion has been widely recorded in aquatic organisms, but few studies focus on cnidarians and ctenophores, which form a significant contribution to marine trophic interactions. Scyphozoans (Cyanea capillata, C. lamarckii and Aurelia aurita), hydrozoan (Cosmetira pilosella) and ctenophores (Beroe cucumis and Pleurobrachia bachei) collected opportunistically from Orkney, Shetland and the North Sea were thermally disintegrated, with a subsample of ingested plastics analysed using FTIR. A total of 1,986 MPs were counted (94% fibres), the majority (84.4%) in the four cnidarian species. Highest MP concentrations were recorded in B. cucumis (0.956 ml-1), whilst C. pilosella yielded the lowest (0.014 ml-1). The main polymers in digestate were PET and PP, with 27% discounted as non-plastics. In feeding trials, A. aurita ingested a greater quantity of PET fibres (60-80%), compared to nylon (0%) and HDPE fibres (0%). This study demonstrates cnidarians and ctenophores, a largely overlooked group, are a potential route for MPs entry into food webs.

Visible light and human skin pigmentation: The importance of skin phototype.

Melanin is synthesised within melanocytes and transferred to keratinocytes in human skin, thereby regulating skin colour and protecting skin cells against UVR-induced damage. We commonly divide human skin into six phototypes (SPT)-I to -VI (Fitzpatrick scale) according to the skin's tanning response to UVR. In this pilot study, we investigated the impact of UVR (maximum 311nm), blue (peak 450nm) and green visible light (peak 530nm) on melanin production and type in healthy human skin histocultures (SPT-I, -II and -III). UVR, blue and green light stimulated a surface tanning response in SPT-II and -III, but not SPT-I. Using the Warthin-Starry stain for sensitive melanin detection, all three light treatments induced melanogenesis in SPT-II and -III skin. Surprisingly, blue and green light (but not UVR) stimulated melanin synthesis in SPT-I skin. Moreover, melanin synthesis induced by blue and green visible light in SPT-I, SPT-II, and SPT-III skin was not associated with a detectable increase in DNA damage or cell apoptosis. By contrast, both responses were detected after UVR. These data suggest that blue and green visible light can stimulate melanin production in fair-skinned individuals without, at least some of, the harmful consequences of UVR-induced pigmentation. We are currently examining the molecular basis of UVR-independent melanogenesis in fair skin.

Predicting Proteolysis in Complex Proteomes Using Deep Learning.

Both protease- and reactive oxygen species (ROS)-mediated proteolysis are thought to be key effectors of tissue remodeling. We have previously shown that comparison of amino acid composition can predict the differential susceptibilities of proteins to photo-oxidation. However, predicting protein susceptibility to endogenous proteases remains challenging. Here, we aim to develop bioinformatics tools to (i) predict cleavage site locations (and hence putative protein susceptibilities) and (ii) compare the predicted vulnerabilities of skin proteins to protease- and ROS-mediated proteolysis. The first goal of this study was to experimentally evaluate the ability of existing protease cleavage site prediction models (PROSPER and DeepCleave) to identify experimentally determined MMP9 cleavage sites in two purified proteins and in a complex human dermal fibroblast-derived extracellular matrix (ECM) proteome. We subsequently developed deep bidirectional recurrent neural network (BRNN) models to predict cleavage sites for 14 tissue proteases. The predictions of the new models were tested against experimental datasets and combined with amino acid composition analysis (to predict ultraviolet radiation (UVR)/ROS susceptibility) in a new web app: the Manchester proteome susceptibility calculator (MPSC). The BRNN models performed better in predicting cleavage sites in native dermal ECM proteins than existing models (DeepCleave and PROSPER), and application of MPSC to the skin proteome suggests that: compared with the elastic fiber network, fibrillar collagens may be susceptible primarily to protease-mediated proteolysis. We also identify additional putative targets of oxidative damage (dermatopontin, fibulins and defensins) and protease action (laminins and nidogen). MPSC has the potential to identify potential targets of proteolysis in disparate tissues and disease states.

Melanin Distribution in Human Skin: Influence of Cytoskeletal, Polarity, and Centrosome-Related Machinery of Stratum basale Keratinocytes.

Melanin granules cluster within supra-nuclear caps in basal keratinocytes (KCs) of the human epidermis, where they protect KC genomic DNA against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) damage. While much is known about melanogenesis in melanocytes (MCs) and a moderate amount about melanin transfer from MC to KC, we know little about the fate of melanin once inside KCs. We recently reported that melanin fate in progenitor KCs is regulated by rare asymmetric organelle movement during mitosis. Here, we explore the role of actin, microtubules, and centrosome-associated machinery in distributing melanin within KCs. Short-term cultures of human skin explants were treated with cytochalasin-B and nocodazole to target actin filaments and microtubules, respectively. Treatment effects on melanin distribution were assessed by the Warthin-Starry stain, on centrosome-associated proteins by immunofluorescence microscopy, and on co-localisation with melanin granules by brightfield microscopy. Cytochalasin-B treatment disassembled supra-nuclear melanin caps, while nocodazole treatment moved melanin from the apical to basal KC domain. Centrosome and centriolar satellite-associated proteins showed a high degree of co-localisation with melanin. Thus, once melanin granules are transferred to KCs, their preferred apical distribution appears to be facilitated by coordinated movement of centrosomes and centriolar satellites. This mechanism may control melanin's strategic position within UVR-exposed KCs.

Global political responsibility for the conservation of albatrosses and large petrels.

Migratory marine species cross political borders and enter the high seas, where the lack of an effective global management framework for biodiversity leaves them vulnerable to threats. Here, we combine 10,108 tracks from 5775 individual birds at 87 sites with data on breeding population sizes to estimate the relative year-round importance of national jurisdictions and high seas areas for 39 species of albatrosses and large petrels. Populations from every country made extensive use of the high seas, indicating the stake each country has in the management of biodiversity in international waters. We quantified the links among national populations of these threatened seabirds and the regional fisheries management organizations (RFMOs) which regulate fishing in the high seas. This work makes explicit the relative responsibilities that each country and RFMO has for the management of shared biodiversity, providing invaluable information for the conservation and management of migratory species in the marine realm.

Year-round distribution, activity patterns and habitat use of a poorly studied pelagic seabird, the fluttering shearwater Puffinus gavia.

We present the first study to examine the year-round distribution, activity patterns, and habitat use of one of New Zealand's most common seabirds, the fluttering shearwater (Puffinus gavia). Seven adults from Burgess Island, in the Hauraki Gulf, and one individual from Long Island, in the Marlborough Sounds, were successfully tracked with combined light-saltwater immersion loggers for one to three years. Our tracking data confirms that fluttering shearwaters employ different overwintering dispersal strategies, where three out of eight individuals, for at least one of the three years when they were being tracked, crossed the Tasman Sea to forage over coastal waters along eastern Tasmania and southeastern Australia. Resident birds stayed confined to waters of northern and central New Zealand year-round. Although birds frequently foraged over pelagic shelf waters, the majority of tracking locations were found over shallow waters close to the coast. All birds foraged predominantly in daylight and frequently visited the colony at night throughout the year. We found no significant inter-seasonal differences in the activity patterns, or between migratory and resident individuals. Although further studies of inter-colony variation in different age groups will be necessary, this study presents novel insights into year-round distribution, activity patterns and habitat use of the fluttering shearwater, which provide valuable baseline information for conservation as well as for further ecological studies.

Circadian rhythms in skin and other elastic tissues.

Circadian rhythms are daily oscillations that, in mammals, are driven by both a master clock, located in the brain, and peripheral clocks in cells and tissues. Approximately 10% of the transcriptome, including extracellular matrix components, is estimated to be under circadian control. Whilst it has been established that certain collagens and extracellular matrix proteases are diurnally regulated (for example in tendon, cartilage and intervertebral disc) the role played by circadian rhythms in mediating elastic fiber homeostasis is poorly understood. Skin, arteries and lungs are dynamic, resilient, elastic fiber-rich organs and tissues. In skin, circadian rhythms influence cell migration and proliferation, wound healing and susceptibility of the tissues to damage (from protease activity, oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation). In the cardiovascular system, blood pressure and heart rate also follow age-dependent circadian rhythms whilst the lungs exhibit diurnal variations in immune response. In order to better understand these processes it will be necessary to characterise diurnal changes in extracellular matrix biology. In particular, given the sensitivity of peripheral clocks to external factors, the timed delivery of interventions (chronotherapy) has the potential to significantly improve the efficacy of treatments designed to repair and regenerate damaged cutaneous, vascular and pulmonary tissues.

Enhanced vitamin C skin permeation from supramolecular hydrogels, illustrated using in situ ToF-SIMS 3D chemical profiling.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a naturally occurring, powerful anti-oxidant with the potential to deliver numerous benefits to the skin when applied topically. However, topical use of this compound is currently restricted by an instability in traditional formulations and the delivery and eventual fate of precursor compounds has been largely unexplored. Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) is an emerging technique in the field of skin research and offers detailed chemical analysis, with high mass and spatial resolution, as well as profiling capabilities that allow analysis as a function of sample depth. This work demonstrates the successful use of ToF-SIMS to obtain, in situ, accurate 3D permeation profiles of both ascorbic acid and a popular precursor, ascorbyl glucoside, from ex vivo porcine skin. The significant permeation enhancing effect of a supramolecular hydrogel formulation, produced from an amphiphilic gemini imidazolium-based surfactant, was also demonstrated for both compounds. Using ToF-SIMS, it was also possible to detect and track the breakdown of ascorbyl glucoside into ascorbic acid, elucidating the ability of the hydrogel formulation to preserve this important conversion until the targeted epidermal layer has been reached. This work demonstrates the potential of ToF-SIMS to provide 3D permeation profiles collected in situ from ex vivo tissue samples, offering detailed analysis on compound localisation and degradation. This type of analysis has significant advantages in the area of skin permeation, but can also be readily translated to other tissue types.

Identification Of Three Key Factors Contributing To The Aetiology Of Dark Circles By Clinical And Instrumental Assessments Of The Infraorbital Region.

BACKGROUND: The aetiology of infraorbital dark circles is complex and multi-factorial. The aim of this research was to measure and characterize dark circles and to determine the physiological changes associated with the occurrence of this aesthetically unpleasing issue. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Clinical, photographic and instrumental assessments were performed on Caucasian skin to determine the most appropriate methodologies to measure dark circles, comparing different zones of the infraorbital region in subjects with and without dark circles. Exploratory studies were also carried out on African and Far East Asian skin, as well as on tracking the natural variation of dark circles over seven days in Caucasian subjects. RESULTS: Under-eye dark circles in Caucasian subjects are characterized by significantly darker coloured skin and higher colour deviations between the dark circle region and surrounding areas of skin. Multispectral image analysis produced a higher melanin index in subjects with dark circles, suggesting hyperpigmentation in the affected area, in addition to a higher haemoglobin index. The higher haemoglobin index, combined with preliminary assessments of the vascular network by videocapillaroscopy, suggests there may be more dilated, thicker or increased numbers of capillaries in subjects with dark circles. Ultrasound analysis showed a significant difference in skin thickness between the two groups of subjects linking the appearance of dark circles to thinner skin under the eye. Many of these trends were also observed in African and Far East Asian skin. The results also showed intra-individual, intra-day and inter-day variability of dark circle intensity in subjects with Caucasian skin. CONCLUSION: Three key physiological factors associated with the occurrence of infraorbital dark circles are hyperpigmentation, a tendency for more dilated, thicker or increased number of capillaries and thinner skin in the under-eye area. The combination of these three factors provides a robust indication of the presence of infraorbital dark circles.

Defining tissue proteomes by systematic literature review.

Defining protein composition is a key step in understanding the function of both healthy and diseased biological systems. There is currently little consensus between existing published proteomes in tissues such as the aorta, cartilage and organs such as skin. Lack of agreement as to both the number and identity of proteins may be due to issues in protein extraction, sensitivity/specificity of detection and the use of disparate tissue/cell sources. Here, we developed a method combining bioinformatics and systematic review to screen >32M articles from the Web of Science for evidence of proteins in healthy human skin. The resulting Manchester Proteome ( www.manchesterproteome.manchester.ac.uk ) collates existing evidence which characterises 2,948 skin proteins, 437 unique to our database and 2011 evidenced by both mass spectrometry and immune-based techniques. This approach circumvents the limitations of individual proteomics studies and can be applied to other species, organs, cells or disease-states. Accurate tissue proteomes will aid development of engineered constructs and offer insight into disease treatments by highlighting differences in proteomic composition.

Age-Related Changes to Human Stratum Corneum Lipids Detected Using Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry Following in Vivo Sampling.

This work demonstrates the ability to detect changes in both quantity and spatial distribution of human stratum corneum (SC) lipids from samples collected in vivo. The SC functions as the predominant barrier to the body, protecting against the penetration of xenobiotic substances. Changes to the SC lipid composition have been associated with barrier impairment and consequent skin disorders, and it is therefore important to monitor and quantify changes to this structure. This work demonstrates the first reported use of time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) to assess physiological changes to human SC as a function of depth. This technique provides exceptional sensitivity and chemical specificity, allowing analysis of single tape stripped samples taken from volunteers. Using this methodology we were able to successfully identify chemical differences in human SC resulting from both intrinsic and extrinsic (photo) aging. Samples were collected from women of two age groups (under 27 and postmenopausal) and from two body sites with varying UV exposure (inner forearm and dorsal hand), and differences were identified using multivariate data analysis. The key finding was the significant aged-related increase and change in spatial distribution of the sterol cholesterol sulfate, a membrane stabilizing lipid. Significant changes in the prevalence of both lignoceric acid (C24:0) and hexacosanoic acid (C26:0) were also observed. This work describes previously unreported age-related chemical changes to human SC, providing an insight into aging mechanisms which may improve the design of both pharmaceutical and cosmetic topical products.

Melanin fate in the human epidermis: a reassessment of how best to detect and analyse histologically.

Melanin is the predominant pigment responsible for skin colour and is synthesized by the melanocyte in the basal layer of the epidermis and then transferred to surrounding keratinocytes. Despite its optical properties, melanin is barely detectable in unstained sections of human epidermis. However, identification and localization of melanin is of importance for the study of skin pigmentation in health and disease. Current methods for the histologic quantification of melanin are suboptimal and are associated with significant risk of misinterpretation. The aim of this study was to reassess the existing literature and to develop a more effective histological method of melanin quantification in human skin. Moreover, we confirm that Warthin-Starry (WS) stain provides a much more sensitive and more specific melanin detection method than the commonplace Fontana-Masson (FM) stain. For example, WS staining sensitivity allowed the visualization of melanin even in very pale Caucasian skin that was missed by FM or Von Kossa (VK) stains. From our reassessment of the histology-related literature, we conclude that so-called melanin dust is most likely an artifact of discoloration due to non-specific silver deposition in the stratum corneum. Unlike FM and VK, WS was not associated with this non-specific stratum corneum darkening, misinterpreted previously as 'degraded' melanin. Finally, WS melanin particle counts were largely similar to previously reported manual counts by transmission electron microscopy, in contrast to both FM and VK. Together these findings allow us to propose a new histology/Image J-informed method for the accurate and precise quantification of epidermal melanin in skin.