Discrete Nanoscale Distribution of Hair Lipids Fails to Provide Humidity Resistance.

The subcellular distribution of lipids in human hair was investigated to better understand their role in water permeability. Unlike stratum corneum where lipids are organized under a precisely ordered continuous structure, the removal of free lipids in hair does not lead to an increase of water permeability. Esterified and CH2-enriched molecules were tracked at a 10 nm resolution by infrared nanospectroscopy (atomic force microscopy coupled to infrared spectroscopy, AFMIR). Free and bound lipids in the 25 nm thick intercellular spaces were directly detected for the first time, further substantiating the potential of AFMIR to study complex biomaterials. We observed that they were mostly found accumulated in some regions of the external cuticle layers, as "hotspots" in nonkeratinous portions of the internal cortex, and that they do not seem to modulate much the water exchanges due to their discrete distribution throughout the hair fiber.

Keratin network modifications lead to the mechanical stiffening of the hair follicle fiber.

The complex mechanical properties of biomaterials such as hair, horn, skin, or bone are determined by the architecture of the underlying fibrous bionetworks. Although much is known about the influence of the cytoskeleton on the mechanics of isolated cells, this has been less studied in tridimensional tissues. We used the hair follicle as a model to link changes in the keratin network composition and architecture to the mechanical properties of the nascent hair. We show using atomic force microscopy that the soft keratinocyte matrix at the base of the follicle stiffens by a factor of ∼360, from 30 kPa to 11 MPa along the first millimeter of the follicle. The early mechanical stiffening is concomitant to an increase in diameter of the keratin macrofibrils, their continuous compaction, and increasingly parallel orientation. The related stiffening of the material follows a power law, typical of the mechanics of nonthermal bending-dominated fiber networks. In addition, we used X-ray diffraction to monitor changes in the (supra)molecular organization within the keratin fibers. At later keratinization stages, the inner mechanical properties of the macrofibrils dominate the stiffening due to the progressive setting up of the cystine network. Our findings corroborate existing models on the sequence of biological and structural events during hair keratinization.