Understanding the dandruff scalp before and after treatment: an in vivo Raman spectroscopic study.

OBJECTIVES: To study and characterize the stratum corneum (SC) of dandruff scalp using in vivo Raman spectroscopy, to study how it compares with the non-dandruff scalp and to see the effect of treatment with a zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO)-based anti-dandruff shampoo. METHODS: The scalp skin was measured using a recently developed in vivo Raman probe. This method allows the inherent molecular components of the SC to be measured in vivo and confocally with depth, in particular the levels of natural moisturizing factors (NMF), lipids, lactic acid, urea and water. RESULTS: Depth-profile data for the skin components in dandruff SC in vivo are shown for the first time. The dandruff SC has lower NMF than the non-dandruff SC (0.16 compared with 0.39 a.u.), lower hydration, elevated levels of urea and lower levels of lactic acid. Treatment with an anti-dandruff shampoo containing 1% ZnPTO substantially restores the levels of each of these components close to the non-dandruff levels. Further to this, it is shown that sebum penetrates deeper into dandruff SC and at higher levels compared with non-dandruff SC. The levels of sebum localized within the SC are also brought closer to those of the non-dandruff condition after ZnPTO treatment. CONCLUSION: The in vivo Raman probe has allowed the direct measurement of dandruff-affected skin in situ for the first time. It has been shown that the dandruff SC is different from that of the non-dandruff scalp and that it is changed by treatment with shampoo containing ZnPTO and brought towards the characteristics of non-dandruff scalp. It offers novel insights into how the nature of a healthy scalp should be defined.

Measuring the penetration of a skin sensitizer and its delivery vehicles simultaneously with confocal Raman spectroscopy.

Among the factors determining the propensity of a chemical to induce skin allergy are the penetration into skin and the kinetics of ingress. Confocal Raman spectroscopy can provide such information as it enables direct, spatially resolved measurement of the skin and of any chemical uptake. Several chemicals can be monitored at once, and the method is non-destructive (light in, light out) so that the skin can be kept intact for repeated and continuous measurement. Raman spectroscopy was used to follow the penetration of 2.5 weight percent trans-cinnamaldehyde and its delivery vehicle into skin in vitro, up to 24 h after topical application. A custom-made Bronaugh-type diffusion cell that was suitable for the Raman experiment was used. Four different vehicles were tested: absolute ethanol, 50% aqueous ethanol, propylene glycol and acetone:olive oil (4:1); these gave different time scales for cinnamaldehyde penetration. The acetone:olive oil vehicle phase-separated on the skin surface and the cinnamaldehyde penetrated at different rates in the different phases, which may be of significance since this is the preferred solvent for the local lymph node assay (an in vivo animal test used to generate hazard information on skin sensitization). In conclusion, the Raman method gives valuable detailed information on chemical ingress, clearly differentiates between different delivery rates and allows solvent monitoring alongside the chemical of interest.