Determination of antioxidant efficacy of cosmetic formulations by non-invasive measurements.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Antioxidants have been proposed, over the last decade, as functional ingredients for anti aging preparations and to prevent and modulate oxidative skin damages. Up to date, beside the photo-induced oxidative skin damages model, none in vivo protocols have shown sufficient reproducibility for the validation of the antioxidant claim for a cosmetic finished product. To this aim, we have recently anticipated a new in vivo protocol based on a microinflammatory model, driven by reactive oxygen species. In the present study our model was validated by comparison with four different instrumental methods. METHODS: The effects of a pre-treatment of two different formulations based on antioxidant functional ingredients, were investigated on forearm skin of 15 healthy volunteers, and compared to a cosmetic base and control area. The instruments considered in the study were Chromameter (CR-300 Minolta), Tewameter TM 210 (Courage-khazaka, Cologne, Germany), Laser Doppler Perfusion Imager (PIM1.0 Lisca Development AB, Sweden), in comparison to DermAnalyzer(R), an easy to use software program developed by us, using the CIE L*a*b* color space parameters. RESULTS: The comparative measurements showed that the antioxidant formulations tested were all able to reduce, in different but statistically significant extent, the intensity of skin redness, and of cutaneous blood flow, when compared to control area (P < 0.0001). CONCLUSIONS: The methyl nicotinate (MN) based microinflammatory model, in conjunction with objective measure- ments, resulted an effective tool for in vivo assessment of oxidative skin injuries. In view of the high level of repeatability, short time of answer and simplicity, the procedure by us developed, is proposed as a possible protocol for the evaluation of in vivo efficacy of antioxidant functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations.

5'-Phosphoramidates and 5'-diphosphates of 2'-O-allyl-beta-D-arabinofuranosyluracil, -cytosine, and -adenine: inhibition of ribonucleotide reductase.

Continuing our studies on ribonucleotide reductase (RNR) mechanism-based inhibitors, we have now prepared the diphosphates (DP) of 2'-O-allyl-1-beta-D-arabinofuranosyl-uracil and -cytosine and 2'-O-allyl-9-beta-D-arabinofuranosyl-adenine and evaluated their inhibitory activity against recombinant murine RNR. 2'-O-Allyl-araUDP proved to be inhibitory to RNR at an IC(50) of 100 microM, whereas 2'-O-allyl-araCDP was only marginally active (IC(50) 1 mM) and 2'-O-allyl-araADP was completely inactive. The susceptibility of the parent nucleosides to phosphorylation by thymidine kinase and 2'-deoxycytidine kinase was also investigated, and all nucleosides proved to be poor substrates for the above-cited kinases. Moreover, prodrugs of 2'-O-allyl-araU and -araC monophosphates, namely 2'-O-allyl-5'-(phenylethoxy-L-alanyl phosphate)-araU and -araC, were prepared and tested against tumor cell proliferation but proved to be inactive. A molecular modeling study has been conducted in order to explain our results. The data confirm that for both the natural and analogue nucleoside diphosphates, the principal determinant interaction with the active site of RNR is with the diphosphate group, which forms strong hydrogen bonds with Glu623, Thr624, Ser625, and Thr209. Our findings indicate that the poor phosphorylation may represent an explanation for the lack of marked in vitro cytostatic activity of the test compounds.

Synthesis, cytostatic activity and inhibition of ribonucleotide reductase by 5'-phosphoramidates and 5'-diphosphates, of 2'-O-allyl-arabinofuranosyl nucleosides.

The diphosphates of a series of 2'-O-allyl-1-beta-D-arabinofuranosyl derivatives, previously obtained by us, have been prepared and tested for their inhibitory activity in an in vitro assay using R1 and R2 subunits of the purified recombinant mouse ribonucleotide reductase (RNR). 2'-O-Allyl-araU diphosphate proved to be inhibitory, with an IC50 of 100 microM. The 5'-phosphoramidate pronucleotide of 2'-O-allyl-araU was also prepared and tested for inhibition of tumor cell proliferation.