Human eyelash characterization.

BACKGROUND: Few biological data on human eyelash follicles have been reported in the literature. OBJECTIVES: To characterize eyelash follicle growth, cycle and morphology, and further investigate the biological mechanisms that determine eyelash length, curl and pigmentation, compared with scalp hair follicle. METHODS: Twenty-nine caucasian female volunteers aged between 26 and 60 years were enrolled in the study to provide eyelashes. Four of these volunteers were followed weekly for 9 months to characterize their eyelash cycle. Eyelash length and time of renewal were measured using a high-resolution camera and image analysis. Immunohistological study of the bulbs were performed on eyelid biopsies from 17 patients requiring block excision for ectropion repair. RESULTS: The calculated durations of anagen phase and complete cycle of the eyelashes were 34 + or - 9 and 90 + or - 5 days, respectively. Eyelash follicle growth rate was quite variable, with an average rate of 0.12 + or - 0.05 mm daily. Eyelash follicle morphology was very close to that of the scalp hair follicle, but some remarkable differences were noticed. For example, the K19-positive epithelial stem cell population was spread all along the follicle and not split into two reservoirs as seen in scalp hair follicles. Some asymmetry was detected in HSPG and CSPG, as well as K38 (formerly Ha8) and K82 (formerly Hb2) distribution, similar to that observed in curly hair. Finally, dopachrome tautomerase was found expressed in eyelash follicle melanocytes, while it was strikingly absent in scalp hair follicle melanocytes. CONCLUSIONS: The eyelash is structurally very close to curly hair but some biological processes related to follicle cycle and pigmentation differ markedly.

Unexpected distribution of surface hydration level of the lip.

BACKGROUND: The functional properties of human lips depend on their hydration level. Limited data are, however, available. OBJECTIVE: To investigate water distribution through the lower lip surface. METHODS: Images from the surface of the lip were recorded using a new capacitance imaging technique. Capacitance and conductance measurements were also carried out in various points of lower lip and on adjacent skin. RESULTS: Data clearly show that the closest part of the mucosa of the lip is less hydrated than the external part. These unexpected findings could be related to the presence of a premucosa area whose structure is clearly different from that of vermilion zone.

Skin color and makeup strategies of women from different ethnic groups.

The development of a world-wide makeup foundation range requires a thorough understanding of skin color features of women around the world. To understand the cosmetic needs of women from different ethnic groups, we measured skin color in five different groups (French and American Caucasian, Japanese, African-American, and Hispanic-American) and compared the data obtained with women's self-perception of skin color, before or after applying their usual foundation product. Skin color was measured using a spectro-radiometer and a spheric lighting device with CCD camera ensuring a highly reliable imaging and data acquisition. The diversity of skin types involved in the study lead to define a large, continuous color space where color spectra from various ethnic groups overlap. Three types of complexion - dark, medium, or light - were distinguished in each group. Only Japanese women did not identify with this lightness scale and considered it makes more sense to classify their skin according to a pink-ocher-beige color scale. The approach however revealed the great variety of skin colors within each ethnic group and the extent of unevenness. A fairly good agreement appeared between women's self-perception and data from color measurements but in Hispanic-American group. Data recorded, after foundation was applied, showed overall consistency with makeup strategy as described by volunteers except for the latter group whose approach looked more uncertain and variable. The findings of the study demonstrate the advantage of combining qualitative and quantitative approach for assessing the cosmetic needs and expectations of women from different ethnic origin and cultural background.