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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 45(5): 557-571, 2023 Oct.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37367943

RESUMO

Cleansing is an important human ritual practised for hygiene, well-being and relaxation over centuries. As part of body care it is often taken for granted, yet its relevance cannot be underestimated. Although cleansing the skin may seem trivial to some, it is accepted, that this fundamental function of skin cleansing products is highly complex, diverse and crucial for a variety of reasons in the personal, public, healthcare and dermatological settings. Employing a comprehensive and strategic approach in viewing cleansing and its rituals, supports innovation, understanding and development. Apart from being a fundamental function, as far as we know, there is no comprehensive presentation of skin cleansing with all its effects besides 'removing dirt'. To our knowledge, comprehensive analyses on the multi-dimensional facets of skin cleansing are either rare or not published. Against this background, we examine the importance of cleansing in terms of function, relevance and concepts. First, the key functions and efficacies of skin cleansing were investigated by literature research. Based on this survey, the functions were analysed, sorted and merged and a novel approach to skin cleansing 'dimensions' was developed. Herewith, we took into consideration the evolution of skin cleansing in terms of concept evolution, complexity and testing methods for cleansing products and their claims. Several multi-dimensional functions of skin cleansing were identified and then established into five skin cleansing dimensions, namely: hygienic and medical importance; socio-cultural and interpersonal relevance; mood, emotion and well-being; cosmetic and aesthetic function; corneobiological interactions. It became obvious, that these five dimensions with their corresponding 11 sub-dimensions, are influenced by each other throughout history by culture and society, technical progress, scientific knowledge and consumer trends. This article presents the enormous complexity of skin cleansing. Skin cleansing has evolved from basic care up to a highly complex and diverse cosmetic product category in terms of technology, efficacy and usage routine(s). In view of future challenges, such as the effects of climate and associated lifestyle changes, the development of skin cleansing will remain an exciting and important topic and thus will finally, again, further increase the complexity of skin cleansing itself.


OBJECTIF: La toilette est un rituel humain important pratiqué depuis des siècles pour l'hygiène, le bien-être et la relaxation. Les soins du corps sont souvent considérés comme allant de soi, mais leur importance ne doit pas être sous-estimée. Bien que le nettoyage de la peau puisse paraître trivial pour certains, il est admis que cette fonction fondamentale des produits de nettoyage de la peau est hautement complexe, variée et cruciale pour diverses raisons dans les contextes de l'hygiène personnelle et publique, de la santé en général et de la dermatologie. Adopter une approche globale et stratégique pour visualiser le nettoyage de la peau et ses rituels permet d'améliorer son innovation, sa compréhension et son développement. En dehors de sa fonction fondamentale, il n'existe pas, à notre connaissance, de présentation complète des effets du nettoyage de la peau au-delà de la simple « élimination des impuretés ¼. D'après ce que nous savons, des analyses complètes sur les facettes multiples du nettoyage de la peau sont rare, voire jamais publiées. Dans ce contexte, nous examinons l'importance du nettoyage en termes de fonction, de pertinence et de concepts. MÉTHODES: Tout d'abord, les fonctions clés et l'efficacité du nettoyage de la peau ont été étudiées en effectuant des recherches dans la littérature. Sur la base de cette enquête, ces fonctions ont été analysées, triées et fusionnées, et une nouvelle approche des différentes « dimensions ¼ du nettoyage de la peau a été développée. Ici, nous avons pris en compte l'évolution du nettoyage de la peau en ce qui concerne l'évolution de ses concepts, sa complexité et les méthodes de test des produits de nettoyage et de leurs caractéristiques. CONCLUSION: Plusieurs fonctions multidimensionnelles de nettoyage de la peau ont été identifiées, puis appliquées à cinq dimensions de nettoyage de la peau, à savoir : L'importance sanitaire et médicale ; la pertinence socioculturelle et interpersonnelle ; l'humeur, l'émotion et le bien-être ; la fonction esthétique et cosmétique ; les interactions cornéobiologiques. Il est devenu évident que ces cinq dimensions, avec leurs onze sous-dimensions respectives, se sont interinfluencées tout au long de l'histoire selon la culture, la société, les progrès techniques, les connaissances scientifiques et les tendances des consommateurs. Cet article présente l'énorme complexité du nettoyage de la peau. Le nettoyage de la peau est passé des soins de base à une catégorie de produits cosmétiques hautement complexes et variés en termes de technologie, d'efficacité et de routine(s) d'utilisation. Compte tenu des défis futurs, comme les effets du climat et les changements de mode de vie associés, le développement du nettoyage de la peau restera un sujet important et passionnant, et finira par augmenter encore davantage la complexité du nettoyage de la peau.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Pele , Humanos , Higiene , Cosméticos/farmacologia , Estética
3.
Ostomy Wound Manage ; 51(12): 30-42, 2005 Dec.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-16439809

RESUMO

In the treatment of incontinence dermatitis, a skin protectant primarily prevents skin breakdown due to moisture and biological irritants in urine and feces. To assess the barrier and skin hydration properties of six currently available skin protectants with different formulations, a controlled, three-phase study was conducted at a research facility in the UK among 18 healthy volunteers. The study addressed each product's efficacy against insult from a known irritant (sodium lauryl sulphate), skin hydration potential, and maintenance of skin barrier and barrier efficacy against maceration. Using white petrolatum (glycerin) as the positive control and untreated sites as the negative control, the results show that each one of the products tested has different performance properties. Products containing petrolatum demonstrated protection against irritants (P = 0.006 at 24 hours) and maceration (P < 0.005) and provided some skin hydration. Products containing dimethicone varied in protection against irritants (P < 0.005, or P > or = 0.806 at 24 hours) and have good skin hydration potential and low barrier efficacy (P > 0.500). Zinc oxide-based products showed protection against irritants (P < 0.005) but poor skin hydration and barrier properties to prevent maceration (P = 0.262). Overall, only the water-in-oil petrolatum- based product performed effectively within all the parameters tested. This study suggests that skin barrier protection involves more than the inclusion of an active barrier ingredient. Further testing and use of barrier products in the clinical setting will provide additional evidence for appropriate product selection.


Assuntos
Dermatite Irritante/prevenção & controle , Fármacos Dermatológicos/farmacologia , Simeticone/farmacologia , Fenômenos Fisiológicos da Pele/efeitos dos fármacos , Óxido de Zinco/farmacologia , Adulto , Análise de Variância , Colorimetria , Incontinência Fecal/enfermagem , Humanos , Incontinência Urinária/enfermagem , Perda Insensível de Água/efeitos dos fármacos
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