Lipid Droplet Proteins in Acne Skin: A Sound Target for the Maintenance of Low Comedogenic Sebum and Acne-Prone Skin Health.

In adipocytes and sebocytes, lipid droplet proteins control the storage of lipids in organized droplets and their release on demand. The contribution of lipid droplet proteins to the pathogenesis of acne is plausible because they control the levels of comedogenic free fatty acids. The expression of two lipid droplet proteins, CIDEA and PLIN2, was analyzed in the skin of patients with acne by immunohistochemistry and western blotting. The design of clinical protocols allowed correlating the expression of CIDEA and PLIN2 with both comedogenesis and the release of free fatty acids. Both proteins were detected by immunohistochemistry in the sebaceous glands of patients with acne, with a disturbed expression pattern of PLIN2 compared with that in the controls. Higher levels of PLIN2 and CIDEA, as detected by western blotting in the infundibulum, significantly correlated with lower ongoing comedogenesis over 48 weeks of Silybum marianum fruit extract application. Accordingly, free fatty acid release from sebum triglycerides was significantly decreased, as shown with two distinct methods. The data are consistent with the expected role of PLIN2 and CIDEA in the prevention of comedogenic free fatty acid release. Modulation of PLIN2 and CIDEA expression appears as a sound target for the maintenance of low comedogenic sebum and acne-prone skin health.

Effects of dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pongamia oil and hesperidin methyl chalcone on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea is a chronic facial skin disorder characterized by inflammation and vascular abnormalities. The pathophysiology of rosacea involves increased activation of the capsaicin receptor, TRPV1, the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) pathway, and cathelicidin LL-37, MMP-9, and KLKs. We evaluated the activity of four compounds (dextran sulfate, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol [BCH; TRP-regulin®], pongamia oil, and hesperidin methyl chalcone [HMC]) on inflammatory and vascular responses implicated in rosacea. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The anti-inflammatory activity of dextran sulfate was evaluated on PGE2 production after PMA stimulation of NCTC-2544 keratinocytes, and on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) after proinflammatory stimulation to mimic a rosacea environment. The anti-angiogenic activity of dextran sulfate was measured by analyzing pseudotube formation in co-cultured human microvascular endothelial cells/normal human dermal fibroblasts. HMC modulation of vascular responses and IL-8 cytokine production after SP stimulation was evaluated in human skin explants. We also assessed the effect of BCH on TRPV1 activation, and the effect of combined BCH and pongamia oil on the inflammatory response of NHEKs. RESULTS: Dextran sulfate strongly and significantly inhibited PMA-induced PGE2 production, inhibited KLK5 and MMP-9 mRNA expression, and IL-8, IL-1α and VEGF production, and displayed a highly significant inhibitory effect on VEGF-induced pseudotube formation. In SP-stimulated human skin explants, HMC significantly decreased the proportion of dilated vessels, total vessel area, and IL-8 production. BCH significantly and dose-dependently inhibited TRPV1 activation, and BCH and pongamia oil inhibited CXCL1 and CXCL6 mRNA expression and IL-8 production in NHEKs. Combined BCH/pongamia oil inhibited IL-8 production synergistically. CONCLUSION: These in vitro results showed that dextran sulfate, BCH, pongamia oil and HMC, possess complementary soothing and anti-redness properties, supporting their combination in Avène redness-relief cosmetic products for sensitive skin prone to redness, and for topical adjunctive rosacea treatment.

A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies.

INTRODUCTION: Natural aging of skin tissues, the addition of the cumulative action of the time and radiation exposure result in skin atrophy, wrinkles and degeneration of the extracellular matrix (ECM). The aim of the study was to investigate the beneficial effect of a combination containing retinaldehyde (RAL), delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TC) and glycylglycine ole-amide (GGO) and of a dermocosmetic containing the combination. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The protective effect of the combination was assessed through in vitro gene expression of ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated fibroblasts. A skin aging assay using UV light on ex vivo skin samples and a clinical study conducted in 36 women aged from 35 to 55 years with a minimum of level 4 to a maximum of level 6 on the crow's feet photoscale assessed the antiaging effect of the dermocosmetic. RESULTS: When added to UV-irradiated fibroblasts, the combination substantially improved the ECM in activating the elastin fiber production (fibrillin 2, fibulin 1 and 5 and lysyl oxidase-like 2) as well as that of proteins involved in the cellular ECM interactions (integrin b1, paxillin and actin a2). An ex vivo photodamaged human skin model showed that the dermocosmetic formulation containing the combination of the active ingredients protected the elastic network against UV-induced alterations including both elastin and fibrillin-rich fibers in the dermis. A daily application of the dermocosmetic for 2 months on naturally aged skin resulted in a statistically significant improvement (p<0.05) of visible signs of aging comprising crow's feet, wrinkles and periocular fine lines. Finally, the formulation was well tolerated. CONCLUSION: The dermocosmetic containing RAL, delta-TC and GGO provides a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women aged 35-55 years.

Anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects of Aquaphilus dolomiae extract on in vitro models.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common skin disease characterized by recurrent pruritic inflammatory skin lesions resulting from structural and immune defects of the skin barrier. Previous studies have shown the clinical efficacy of Avène thermal spring water in AD, and a new microorganism, Aquaphilus dolomiae was suspected to contribute to these unique properties. The present study evaluated the anti-inflammatory, antipruritic, and immunomodulatory properties of ES0, an original biological extract of A. dolomiae, in immune and inflammatory cell models in order to assess its potential use in the treatment of AD. MATERIALS AND METHODS: An ES0 extract containing periplasmic and membrane proteins, peptides, lipopolysaccharides, and exopolysaccharides was obtained from A. dolomiae. The effects of the extract on pruritus and inflammatory mediators and immune mechanisms were evaluated by using various AD cell models and assays. RESULTS: In a keratinocyte model, ES0 inhibited the expression of the inflammatory mediators, thymic stromal lymphopoietin, interleukin (IL)-18, IL-4R, IL-8, monocyte chemoattractant protein-3, macrophage inflammatory protein-3α, and macrophage-derived chemokine and induced the expression of involucrin, which is involved in skin barrier keratinocyte terminal differentiation. In addition, ES0 inhibited protease-activated receptor-2 activation in HaCaT human keratinocytes stimulated by stratum corneum tryptic enzyme and T helper type (Th) 1, Th2, and Th17 cytokine production in Staphylococcal enterotoxin B-stimulated CD4+ lymphocytes. Lastly, ES0 markedly activated innate immunity through toll-like receptor (TLR) 2, TLR4, and TLR5 activation (in recombinant human embryonic kidney 293 cells) and through antimicrobial peptide induction (psoriasin, human beta-defensin-2, and cathelicidin), mainly through TLR5 activation (in normal human keratinocytes). CONCLUSION: Overall, these in vitro results confirm the marked regulatory activity of this A. dolomiae extract on inflammatory and immune responses, which may be of value by virtue of its potential as an adjunctive treatment of AD inflammatory and pruritic lesions.

Results from in vitro and ex vivo skin aging models assessing the antiglycation and anti-elastase MMP-12 potential of glycylglycine oleamide.

BACKGROUND: Glycation is an aging reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins. Type I collagen and elastin are most affected by glycation during intrinsic chronological aging. AIM: To study the in vitro and ex vivo assays in human skin cells and explants and the antiaging effects of glycylglycine oleamide (GGO). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The antiglycation effect of GGO was assessed in a noncellular in vitro study on collagen and, ex vivo, by immunohistochemical staining on human skin explants (elastin network glycation). The ability of GGO to contract fibroblasts was assessed in a functional assay, and its anti-elastase (MMP-12) activity was compared to that of oleic acid alone, glycylglycine (GG) alone, and oleic acid associated with GG. RESULTS: In vitro, GGO reduced the glycation of type I collagen. Ex vivo, GGO restored the expression of fibrillin-1 inhibited by glycation. Furthermore, GGO induced a tissue retraction of almost 30%. Moreover, the MMP-12 activity was inhibited by up to 60%. CONCLUSION: Under the present in vitro and ex vivo conditions, GGO prevents glycation of the major structural proteins of the dermis, helping to reduce the risk of rigidification. By maintaining the elastic function of the skin, GGO may be a promising sparring partner for other topical antiaging agents.

UVA-activated synthesis of metalloproteinases 1, 3 and 9 is prevented by a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

BACKGROUND: Specific sunscreens against ultraviolet (UV) A and B radiations are essential to prevent matrix degradation and the activation of intracellular signaling pathways involved in photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Matrix degradation results from UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) and activation of intracellular pathways in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In particular, in keratinocytes, UVA radiation induces ß-catenin nuclear translocation and stimulates MMP gene transcription. Our study was aimed at assessing the efficacy of a specific broad-spectrum sunscreen in preventing ß-catenin translocation and MMPs enhanced expression in cultured keratinocytes after UVA irradiation. METHODS: Sunscreen or the vehicle was spread on quartz sheet. Irradiation of HaCaT cells with 6 J/cm(2) UVA was performed through the sheet, and cells were collected for ß-catenin immunostaining then visualization by confocal microscopy, and quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction analysis of MMP-1, -3 and -9 gene expression. RESULTS: As shown by immunostaining and confocal microscopy, the sunscreen abrogated UVA-induced beta-catenin translocation to the nucleus, in comparison with control groups. MMP-1, -3 and -9 mRNA expression was enhanced by 7, 7 and 4 folds (P < 0.0001, P < 0.001 and P < 0.01, respectively) in unprotected UVA-irradiated cells compared to the non-irradiated control. Sunscreen protection of the cells significantly reduced UVA-induced expression of MMP-1, -3 and -9 by 83% (P < 0.01), 80% (P < 0.01) and 65% (P < 0.05), respectively. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated the efficacy of this broad-spectrum sunscreen in preventing UVA-induced effects on the markers of photoaging and photocarcinogenesis in vitro. It was able to protect HaCaT keratinocytes from UVA-induced ß-catenin translocation to the nucleus and MMPs expression.

Effects of Hydroxydecine(®) (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid) on skin barrier structure and function in vitro and clinical efficacy in the treatment of UV-induced xerosis.

10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, a natural fatty acid only found in royal jelly, may be of value in correcting skin barrier dysfunction. We evaluated the activity of Hydroxydecine(®), its synthetic counterpart, in vitro on the regulation of epidermal differentiation markers, ex vivo on the inflammatory response and restoration of skin barrier function, and in vivo on UV-induced xerosis in healthy human volunteers. In cultured normal human keratinocytes, Hydroxydecine(®) induced involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin protein production. In topically Hydroxydecine(®)-treated skin equivalents, immunohistochemical analysis revealed an increase in involucrin, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin staining. In a model of thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP)-induced inflamed epidermis, a Hydroxydecine(®)-containing emulsion inhibited TSLP release. In a model of inflammation and barrier impairment involving human skin explants maintained alive, Hydroxydecine(®) balm restored stratum corneum cohesion and significantly increased filaggrin expression, as shown by immunohistochemistry. It also decreased pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion (IL-4, IL-5 and IL-13). In healthy volunteers with UV-induced xerosis, the hydration index increased by +28.8% (p<0.01) and +60.4% (p<0.001) after 7 and 21 days of treatment with Hydroxydecine(®) cream, respectively. Hydroxydecine(®) thus proved its efficacy in activating keratinocyte differentiation processes in vitro, restoring skin barrier function and reducing inflammation ex vivo, and hydrating dry skin in vivo.

Propionibacterium acnes activates the IGF-1/IGF-1R system in the epidermis and induces keratinocyte proliferation.

Propionibacterium acnes has a major role in the development of acne lesions. IGF-1 stimulates the proliferation of keratinocytes via an activation of the IGF-1 receptor (IGF-1R). Zinc has been proven to work efficiently against inflammatory acne and to modulate the IGF-1 system. Our objectives were to study the modulation of IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression by P. acnes extracts and to determine their modulation by zinc gluconate. In vivo, we analyzed biopsies of acne lesions and healthy skin, and in vitro we used skin explants incubated with two P. acnes extracts--membrane fraction (MF) and cytosolic proteins--with or without zinc. IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression was evaluated using immunohistochemistry, and the IGF-1 production in supernatants was measured by ELISA. Then, IGF-1 and IGF-1R mRNA levels were analyzed using quantitative PCR on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). IGF-1 and IGF-1R were overexpressed in acne lesions. MF increased IGF-1 and IGF-1R expression in the epidermis of explants and was associated with an overexpression of both Ki-67 and filaggrin. Zinc had the effect of downregulating IGF-1 and IGF-1R levels. These observations were confirmed at the mRNA level for IGF-1R in NHEKs. These results demonstrate that P. acnes can induce the formation of comedones by stimulating the IGF/IGF-1R system. Moreover, zinc downregulates this pathway.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of sunscreens by chromatographic measurement of DNA damage in skin explants.

Evaluation of the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is performed either through the induction of erythema and expressed as the sun protection factor (SPF), or by the UVA-mediated persistent pigment darkening (PPD). None of these two endpoints has a link with skin cancer, the most deleterious consequence of excess exposure to solar UV radiation. We thus set up a complementary approach to evaluate the protection provided by sunscreens to the genome of human skin. This is based on the quantification of the thymine cyclobutane dimer (TT-CPD), the main DNA lesion induced by both UVB and UVA radiations. Irradiations were performed ex vivo on human skin explants and the level of TT-CPD in DNA was determined by HPLC associated with tandem mass spectrometry. The technique was first optimized and validated with three standard sunscreens. The study was then extended to the evaluation of a commercial high SPF sunscreen exhibiting efficient UVA photoprotection. The DNA protecting factor was found to reflect the ratio between UVB and UVA photoprotection, although the absolute values of the genomic protection were, as a general trend, lower than either SPF or PPD. These data show the usefulness of the proposed approach for the evaluation of the genoprotection afforded by sunscreens.

Cutaneous induction of corticotropin releasing hormone by Propionibacterium acnes extracts.

The skin commensal bacillus Propionibacterium acnes is known to play a major role in the development of acne vulgaris and it is established that this bacteria is involved both in the induction and maintenance of the inflammatory phase of acne. The corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), a neuropeptide originally isolated from the hypothalamus, is also produced by the skin. CRH has been reported to play a role in the inflammation, the production of sebum and finally the differentiation of keratinocytes. At the therapeutic level, zinc is known to act specifically on inflammatory lesions with still partially known mechanisms and thus could play an important role in the development of inflammatory acne lesions. Our objective was to study the modulation of CRH expression by keratinocytes induced by P. acnes extracts. CRH expression was examined using immunohistochemistry technique on deep-frozen sections of normal human skin explants incubated with two different extracts of P. acnes and with or without zinc salts. We observed that the membrane fraction (FM) of P. acnes increased the CRH expression in the epidermis. This result indicates that P. acnes, by stimulating the production of CRH, can both modulate the differentiation of keratinocytes and increase the local inflammation, arguing that this bacterium plays a role not only in the development of inflammatory acne lesions but also in the formation of the microcomedo in the early stages of acne.

Zinc salts inhibit in vitro Toll-like receptor 2 surface expression by keratinocytes.

Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) plays an important role in the induction and maintenance of the inflammatory phase of acne. At the therapeutic level, it has been shown that zinc salts could have a beneficial effect on mild and moderate inflammatory acne lesions. However, their mechanisms of action are still only partially known. Immediate early immune response is a crucial route in the development of inflammatory reaction and, specifically, activation of Toll-like Receptors (TLRs) leading to nuclear factor (NF)-kappaB translocation and production of inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-8 (IL-8). The aim of this work was to determine if cytokine secretion and innate immunity could be targets of zinc salts. Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and skin explants were stimulated by P. acnes extracts and incubated (3 h) with zinc salts (1 microg/mL). Then we successively studied TLR2 expression by immunohistochemistry and IL-8 production by ELISA. After incubation with zinc salts, the increase of TLR2 surface expression in skin upon membrane fraction (FM) of P. acnes challenge was decreased as compared to that in control samples. However, this inhibition does not modify IL-8 secretion by keratinocytes. In conclusion the inhibition of TLR2 surface expression by keratinocytes could be one of the anti-inflammatory mechanisms of zinc salts in acne.