Hydrophilic and lipophilic moisturizers have similar penetration profiles but different effects on SC water distribution in vivo.

Dry skin is often treated with hydrophilic and/or lipophilic moisturizers. Hydrophilic moisturizers must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) deeply to function properly, whereas lipophilic moisturizers should remain in the upper SC layers. In this study, both types of moisturizers were applied on volunteers for 3 h, after which the relative amount of moisturizer and the water distribution in the SC were determined using attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with tape-stripping. The results show that while hydrophilic moisturizers penetrate much more readily than lipophilic moisturizers, the latter are abundantly present in the upper regions of the SC. It was also observed that a 3-h treatment with lipophilic moisturizer did not result in increased water levels in the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers retained water where they are located. The results suggest that upon prolonged application, adequate amounts of moisturizer can be obtained in those regions where they may cause moisturization in the central part of the SC. However, a single application of 3 h is probably too short to exert increased hydration as measured with ATR-FTIR.

In vivo assessment of safety of microneedle arrays in human skin.

Microneedle arrays are promising devices for the delivery of drugs and vaccines into or the skin. However, little is known about the safety of the microneedles. In this study we obtained insight in the ability of microneedles to disrupt the skin barrier, which was evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL). We also determined the safety in terms of skin irritation (skin redness and blood flow) and pain sensation. We applied microneedle arrays varying in length and shape on the ventral forearms of 18 human volunteers. An effect of needle length was observed, as TEWL and redness values after treatment with solid microneedle arrays of 400 microm were significantly increased compared to 200 microm. The blood flow showed a similar trend. Needle design also had an effect. Assembled microneedle arrays induced higher TEWL values than the solid microneedle arrays, while resulting in less skin irritation. However, for all microneedles the irritation was minimal and lasted less than 2h. In conclusion, the microneedle arrays used in this study are able to overcome the barrier function of the skin in human volunteers, are painless and cause only minimal irritation. This opens the opportunity for dermal and transdermal delivery of drugs and vaccines.

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely.

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.

FTIR studies show lipophilic moisturizers to interact with stratum corneum lipids, rendering the more densely packed.

Lipophilic moisturizers are widely used to treat dry skin. However, their interaction with the lipids in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is largely unknown. In the present study this interaction of three moisturizers, isostearyl isostearate (ISIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and glycerol monoisostearate (GMIS), has been elucidated using lipid mixtures containing isolated ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA), mimicking the lipid composition and organization in SC. The conformational ordering and the lateral packing of the lipid mixtures were examined by Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy. Equimolar CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures show an orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition between 22 and 30 degrees C and an ordered-disordered phase transition between 46 and 64 degrees C. Addition of 20% m/m ISIS or IPIS increased the thermotropic stability of the orthorhombic lateral packing, while GMIS had no influence. Furthermore, small amounts of all three moisturizers are incorporated into the CER:CHOL:FFA lattice, while the majority of the moisturizer exists in separate domains. Especially the thermotropic stabilization of the orthorhombic lateral packing, which might reduce water loss from the skin, is considered to contribute to the moisturizing effect of IPIS and ISIS in stratum corneum.

Lipophilic and hydrophilic moisturizers show different actions on human skin as revealed by cryo scanning electron microscopy.

To study the mode of action of moisturizers on human skin, hydrophilic moisturizers in water and neat lipophilic moisturizers were applied on excised skin for 24 h at 32 degrees C. Samples of the treated skin were subsequently visualized in a cryoscanning electron microscope. The stratum corneum (SC) appeared as a region of swollen corneocytes (the swollen region) sandwiched between two layers of relatively dry corneocytes (the upper and lower non-swelling regions respectively). Lipophilic moisturizers increased the water content of the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers can also reduce the water content of the SC. When focusing on the effect of the moisturizers on the three different regions, it was observed that cells in the swelling region are most sensitive to the application of the moisturizers and that the change in SC thickness is most influenced by the change in the thickness of the swelling region. Summarizing, SC cells are not equally sensitive to moisturizer application: centrally located corneocytes are more sensitive than corneocytes in the upper and the lowest regions of the SC.

Permeant lipophilicity and vehicle composition influence accumulation of dyes in hair follicles of human skin.

In skin and hair research drug targeting to the hair follicle is of great interest. Therefore the influence of permeant lipophilicity and vehicle composition on local accumulation has been examined using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). Formulations saturated with either Oregon Green 488, Bodipy FL C(5) or Bodipy 564/570 C(5) were prepared. The dyes were applied in citric acid buffer, 8% (w/v) surfactants in citric acid buffer or 8% (w/v) surfactants/20% (w/v) propylene glycol in citric acid buffer. Flow-through diffusion experiments were performed with fresh human scalp skin, after which the skin was imaged using CLSM. Diffusion studies showed for Oregon Green 488 (low lipophilicity) a higher flux when applied in citric acid buffer compared to surfactants. In contrast the fluxes of the more lipophilic dyes (Bodipy FL C(5) and Bodipy 564/570 C(5)) are highest when applied in surfactants/propylene glycol. CLSM studies revealed that follicular accumulation increased with (i) a lipophilic dye and (ii) application of lipophilic dyes in surfactants-propylene glycol. Therefore we conclude that targeting to the hair follicle can be increased by the use of lipophilic drugs in combination with surfactant solutions and propylene glycol.