RESUMO
BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, characterized by papules, pustules and/or nodules manifesting primarily on the face and/or upper back that can leave scars, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and erythema (PIE). OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the anti-inflammatory properties of a protein-free sap extruded from Rhealba® oat plantlets and a Garcinia mangostana extract on Cutibacterium acnes-induced inflammation in vitro and assess the tolerability and efficacy of a dermocosmetic product containing these actives in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne. METHODS: Monocyte-derived dendritic cells (Mo-DCs) from acne patients were stimulated with a planktonic culture of C. acnes and cytokine production was evaluated before and after addition of the test extracts by RT-PCR and ELISA. The clinical study was conducted in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne who applied the product to their face and upper back twice-daily for 2 months. RESULTS: Cutibacterium acnes-induced IL-6, IL-12p40, IL-10 and TNFα synthesis was reduced by the addition of the Garcinia mangostana extract and oat sap in vitro. The clinical study included 54 subjects. The 2-month, twice-daily application of the test product to the whole face and acne-affected areas on the upper back was well tolerated. It led to significant decreases in the number of retentional (-21% for 69% of subjects at D57) and inflammatory (-35% for 79% of subjects at D57) acne lesions, as well as a decrease in Global Acne Evaluation severity scores (2.5 at D1, 2.2 at D29 and 2.1 at D57). The dermatologist also rated the product as effective or very effective in most subjects with PIE (82%; n = 33/40) and PIH (70%; n = 8/11) at D57. CONCLUSION: The actives demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects in vitro, and the dermocosmetic product showed good clinical efficacy and tolerability in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne, supporting the use of this product in acne management.