A study of 84 homemade toothpaste recipes and the problems arising from the type of product.

Objective Growing consumer mistrust of a number of ingredients used in industry has led to the development of a trend for homemade products. This now affects all types of sectors, but particularly the hygiene sector for shampoo and toothpaste products. The aim of this work is therefore to study recipes found on the internet for these types of products in order to assess risks associated with their use.Materials and methods Eighty-four recipes were collected from the internet and their composition was analysed.Results None of the 84 formulas analysed contained any fluoride salts, well known for their oral health benefits. Eighty percent did not contain a foaming agent either, which is very useful in the cleaning function of toothpastes. Furthermore, the quantities of substances to be used were usually expressed in tablespoons or teaspoons, measures which are imprecise and could, for example, lead someone to use large quantities of an abrasive agent such as calcium carbonate.Conclusions Attention should be drawn to homemade toothpaste recipes that contain no fluoride and whose abrasivity, purity and microbial contamination cannot be verified.

Demonstration of the dangerous nature of 'homemade' sunscreen recipes.

BACKGROUND: Following a growing mistrust in a certain number of ingredients used by the cosmetic industry, it has become popular in recent years for consumers to make their own products at home. This trend now touches on all areas of the industry, but is especially found in the hygiene sector, with shampoos and toothpaste, and the care sector, with moisturizers and sunscreen, products. OBJECTIVES: The objective of this study is to analyze sunscreen recipes found on the Internet and to assess their level of photoprotective efficacy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Fifteen Internet recipes were chosen, and then, the products were made in the laboratory following the protocols described. Using an in vitro method, the following efficacy indicators were determined for the preparations made: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the Production Factor in the UVA domain (PF-UVA), and the critical wavelength (λc ). RESULTS: Three of the 15 recipes studied do not contain any sunscreen and therefore constitute a major risk for users in case of exposure to the sun. The other 12 cannot be considered as sun protection products since all of them have an SPF under 6, the threshold value required in Europe. CONCLUSION: The recipes that we collected on the Internet are very dangerous since some of them have no photoprotective effect whatsoever and most of them do not ensure a sufficient level of photoprotection for the persons using them.

BB creams and their photoprotective effect.

BB creams appeared on the market quite recently. These creams, which give a perfect complexion by covering up the skin's blemishes, have a photoprotective effect in the majority of cases. An SPF value ranging from 10 to 45 concerning the products we tested is displayed on the packaging. The 21 commercially-available BB creams were tested to assess their efficacy (determination of the SPF) and their photostability (determination of their efficacy after UV irradiation). It was shown that 70% of the products tested have an SPF determined in vitro by us which matches the SPF displayed on the product. For the remaining 30%, it can be seen that products have SPF values of between 2 and 10 times lower than those indicated on the products. It can also be noted that there is a large disparity in terms of photostability since, under the same experimental conditions, however, some products only lose 5% of their photoprotective efficacy, whereas others lose 60%.

Research on the immunosuppressive activity of ingredients contained in sunscreens.

The immunosuppressive properties of Benzophenone-4, an UV-filter and three ingredients, Allantoin, Bisabolol and Enoxolon used in sunscreen formulation, previously characterized as anti-inflammatory compounds, are studied. The results of this study demonstrate that four tested molecules have effects on DCs and T cells which are the most important cells of the immune system. The impact is also visible on keratinocyte cells which are in the direct contact with skin sunscreens. Each ingredient should be used with caution at reduced doses or even removed from some cosmetic preparations, such as sunscreens.

Structural elucidation, in vitro antioxidant and photoprotective capacities of a purified polyphenolic-enriched fraction from a saltmarsh plant.

In temperate saltmarshes, halophytic plants have to daily protect their internal tissues against sunlight and UV rays. Consequently, they develop adaptive responses such as the synthesis of secondary metabolites, including polyphenols. The present study focused on the biological activities of fractions enriched in polyphenols from Salicornia ramosissima. Three different extracts were obtained by purification processes to concentrate polyphenols: a crude hydroalcoholic extract, and two purified fractions: an ethyl acetate fraction (EAF) and an aqueous fraction. Phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant (DPPH radical-scavenging activity, reducing activity, ß-carotene linoleic acid system and the ORAC method) and sunscreen properties (Sun Protection Factor and UVA-Protection Factor) were assessed by in vitro tests. The purification process was effective in increasing phenolic and flavonoid contents as well as antioxidant and sunscreen capacities of the EAF. The EAF appeared to be a broad spectrum UV absorber. The chemical structure of 10 EAF polyphenols was elucidated using 2D NMR and mass spectrometry spectra. Furthermore, a correlation was observed between phenolic composition and biological activity. These findings are encouraging for the future use of S. ramosissima as a potential source of antioxidant and photoprotectant molecules for industrial applications.

Influence of certain ingredients on the SPF determined in vivo.

When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.

Influence of the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of sunscreen emulsions on their water resistance property.

The use of sunscreens with sun protective cloths is the photoprotection way mostly used by Occidentals. During sweating or a bath, those products should be still efficient. As the emulsion is the mostly used type of product format, it is essential that the scientist knows how to formulate an emulsion which will be water resistant. The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of a formulation has high influence on this characteristic.

Silymarin, a molecule of interest for topical photoprotection.

Some UV-filters have side effects. For example, oestrogenic effect was demonstrated for 4-methylbenzylidene camphor. Given that secondary metabolites are known for their UVB photoprotective properties in plants that contain them, we chose to study silymarin as an agent which could potentially be used in sun products. This determination is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 15 mg of O/W emulsion containing silymarin at various concentrations was applied on roughened PMMA plates and the transmission measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. Incorporated in O/W creams, at a concentration of 10% (w/w), silymarin gives a Sun Protection Factor similar to that of octylmethoxicinnamate, which is why it is predominantly used in Europe. Overall, these results demonstrate that silymarin is a promising new sunscreen agent.

How to guarantee adequate sun protection for a young sportsperson.

BACKGROUND: Young male athletes involved in sports like soccer are subject to sun exposure which can often be intense because of the timing and duration of their practice time. PATIENTS AND METHODS: The goal of this work was to study using a spectrophoto-metric method what level of sun protection was provided by the various articles of clothing which make up a standard soccer uniform, as well as by the cosmetics used by fan clubs. RESULTS: We were able to demonstrate that the sports clothing does guarantee a good level of protection for the skin areas covered. CONCLUSIONS: Depending on the type of clothing, the level of sun protection will vary greatly, with UPF values ranging from 30 for a T-shirt to 300 for a club shirt. This type of protection is higher than that obtained by sun creams and does not change over time.

Synthesis of nano-hematite for possible use in sunscreens.

Hematite nanoparticles were synthesized for ultraviolet filtration application by the precipitation method followed by calcination at different temperatures. A range of crystallite sizes between 37 and 85 nm (as determined by the Scherrer formula) was obtained, according to the temperature used for the calcination. An increase in the absorbance with increasing crystallite size was observed over the whole ultraviolet B and A range. The experimental band gap was 2.94 eV for the sample calcined at 500 degrees C and 3.08 eV for the sample calcined at 300 degrees C. The in vitro sun protection factor and protection factor-ultraviolet A of a water-in-oil emulsion made with the sample calcined at 500 degrees C as active ingredient were 9.21 and 8.81, respectively, which is higher than the protection factor-ultraviolet A values obtained for titanium dioxide and zinc oxide at the same mass concentration. The emulsion was found to be photostable.

Foundations and self-tanning products: Do they provide any protection from the sun?

As soon as the weather turns sunny, everyone wants a tan. People with skin phototypes III and IV, called melanocompetent, have no problem meeting this fashion requirement. But things are quite different for people with phototypes I and II and so these individuals look for alternative solutions. In essence, light skin burns easily when exposed to the sun. Therefore, light-skinned people are offered a cosmetic solution through self-tanning products or foundations. It seemed interesting to us to evaluate the sun protection power of this type of product. To do this, we used an in vitro method to determine the typical indicators related to sunscreen products, such as sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet (UV)-A protection factor (PF-UVA), UV-B/UV-A ratio as well as the critical wavelength because these artificial tanning products could be considered sunscreen products by users. It is important to know whether a self-tanning product and/or a foundation provide sun protection and whether they meet the standards set for other sunscreen products. Protection which is imbalanced for either UV-B or UV-A radiation is potentially harmful for users believing themselves adequately protected. To do this, we assembled the requisite conditions for forming melanoidins in the cosmetic itself. We tested seven amino acids found in the corneal cells of the epidermis. Regardless of the amino acid used, the corresponding SPF was essentially zero (approximately SPF 2). Foundations, on the other hand, proved to be much more interesting because they possess a non-negligible SPF as well as good photostability making these products safe in terms of their mode of application (applied once daily).

Are cosmetic products which include an SPF appropriate for daily use?

The goal of this study is to investigate commercially available cosmetics (foundations, skin care creams) which also claim to include a sun protection factor (SPF). Are these products, which are not considered sunscreen products, helpful or could they be harmful? Using an in vitro method, we tested the effectiveness of 35 commercially available products against UVB and UVA radiation. For each product, our testing focused on determining the following four values in terms of current legal recommendations: SPF, UVA protection factor (PF-UVA), UVB/UVA ratio and critical wavelength (lambda(c)). We also tested each product's level of photostability. Effectively, when considering instructions for use (skincare products are applied once, in the morning) any product displaying an SPF must be particularly photostable, since its labeling does not indicate reapplication. In contrast, the packaging on sunscreen products clearly indicates the necessity of frequent reapplication. Out of the 35 products we tested, seven do not comply with legislation regarding sunscreen products. This non-compliance translates into insufficient protection against UVA radiation. The products sold in pharmacies did comply. In terms of photostability, only eight products out of the original 35 proved to be sufficiently photostable. It would seem inappropriate to use filters in the formulas of non-sunscreen cosmetics.

Flavonoids and polyphenols, molecular families with sunscreen potential: determining effectiveness with an in vitro method.

The numerous uses and properties of flavonoids are well known, in particular their antioxidant, cancer-control and antiinflammatory effects. These properties can be used to enrich the field of topically-applied sun protection. The aim of the study was to determine the effectiveness of various flavonoids and polyphenols. We have used an in vitro method based on the transmittance measurement after spreading an oil in water emulsion containing either flavonoids or polyphenols on polymethylmetacrylate plates. Chlorogenic acid and apigenin were the best UV-filter and UVA-filter, respectively. The flavonoids and polyphenols studied are good candidates for us e in photoprotective products.

Interest of ferulic acid ethyl ester in photoprotective creams: measure of efficacy by in vitro method.

Topical sunscreens have been used for many years on exposed areas to protect the skin from the damaging effects of ultraviolets. If the sunscreens were essential, it is suggested that they have adverse effects. We chose to study ferulic acid ethyl ester (FAEE) as agent which could potentially be used in sunscreen products. FAEE was incorporated at various concentrations into O/W emulsions. Total of 30 mg of product exactly weighed were spread on poly(methylmethacrylate) plates over the whole surface (25 cm(2)). So, sun protection factor (SPF) and PF-UVA of the creams were measured in vitro. Transmission measurements between 290 and 400 nm were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. Incorporated in O/W creams, at a concentration of 10%, FAEE give a SPF similar to that of benzymidazilate, a filter permitted in EU.

Quercetin and rutin as potential sunscreen agents: determination of efficacy by an in vitro method.

Given that flavonoids are known for their ultraviolet (UV)B photoprotective properties in plants that contain them, we chose to study quercetin (1) and rutin (2) as agents that could potentially be used in sunscreen products. These two substances proved to behave in similar ways. When incorporated in oil-in-water emulsions, at a concentration of 10% (w/w), 1 and 2 give sun protection factor (SPF) values similar to that of homosalate, a standard substance. These two flavonoids also provided a non-negligible level of photoprotection in the UVA range. When used in association with titanium dioxide, the SPF obtained was around 30.

Photoprotective activity of propolis.

The purpose of this study was to determine the photoprotective properties of propolis. The sun protection factor (SPF) of ethanol extract of propolis was evaluated by an in vitro method, using homosalate as control. This determination is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 15 mg of O/W emulsion containing propolis at various concentrations were applied on roughened Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and the transmission measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. The results may justify their use as a natural sunscreen agent.

Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro.

The target of this research was to evaluate the photostability of various sunscreen agents incorporated into an O/W emulsion. The concept of photostability is very important in the field of solar protection. The effectiveness of the anti-solar products is quantified using a universal indicator: the sun protection factor (SPF). This number which can be found on packaging can be given in two different ways: by methods in vivo (Colipa method) and in vitro. It is this last method which was adopted for this study. According to selected filter UVB (currently directive 76/768/EEC modified authorized 18 filters UVB), we can obtain more or less effective creams. We chose the irradiation of sun lotions formulated using the authorized filters, used with their maximum amount of employment, in a Suntest, with an irradiance of 650 W/m(2) throughout variable time. With interval of regular time, one carries out a measurement of SPF in order to establish for each filter the kinetics SPF=f(time). An indicator of stability (t(90)) is then given. In this way, we could classify the filters by order of increasing photostability.