Ecodesign of cosmetic formulae: methodology and application.

OBJECTIVE: This article describes an easy-to-use ecodesign methodology developed and applied since 2014 by the L'Oréal Group to improve the sustainable performance of its new products without any compromise on their cosmetic efficacy. METHODS: Cosmetic products, after being used, are often discharged into the sewers and the aquatic compartment. This discharge is considered as dispersive and continuous. A consistent progress in reducing the environmental impact of cosmetic products can be achieved through focusing upon three strategic indicators: biodegradability, grey water footprint adapted for ecodesign (GWFE) and a global indicator, complementary to these two endpoints. Biodegradability represents the key process in the removal of organic ingredients from the environment. GWFE is defined herein as the theoretical volume of natural freshwater required to dilute a cosmetic formula after being used by the consumer, down to a concentration without any foreseeable toxic effects upon aquatic species. Finally, the complementary indicator highlights a possible alert on formula ingredients due to an unfavourable environmental profile based on hazard properties: for example Global Harmonization System/Classification, Labelling and Packaging (GHS/CLP) H410 classification or potential very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) classification. RESULTS: The ecodesign of a new cosmetic product can be a challenge as the cosmetic properties and quality of this new product should at least match the benchmark reference. As shown in the case studies described herein, new methodologies have been developed to maximize the biodegradability of cosmetic formulae, to minimize their GWFE and to limit the use of ingredients that present an unfavourable environmental profile, while reaching the highest standards in terms of cosmetic efficacy. CONCLUSION: By applying these methodologies, highly biodegradable products (≥ 95% based on ingredient composition) have been developed and marketed, with a low GWFE. This new ecodesign approach shows that embedding sustainability in developing new cosmetic products can also open up new innovative opportunities.

A mineralocorticoid-like receptor in the rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss: cloning and characterization of its steroid binding domain.

Using reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (PCR) (RT-PCR) with degenerate primers followed by 3' rapid amplification of cDNA ends PCR (3'Race-PCR) we have isolated a new fish steroid receptor cDNA sequence of 1806 bp from rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) testis. This sequence has clear homology with various mineralocorticoid receptor cDNA sequences (rat, human, African toad: 68-70% amino acid identity), and encompasses the second part of DNA binding domain (C domain), the whole hinge region (D domain) and the steroid binding domain (E domain) plus 726 bp of 3'untranslated sequence. COS-1 cells transfected with a pCMV5 expression vector containing the whole E domain (pCMV5-rtMR) showed high affinity binding for cortisol (K(a) = 0.53+/-0.03 nM, K(d) = 1.9 nM) in the cytosol, which could not be detected in untransfected cells. Aldosterone displaced (3)H-cortisol binding, though was less effective by than unlabeled cortisol (P<0.05). Competition experiments with other steroids gave the following hierarchy for the displacement of the (3) dexamethasone, whereas 17, 20beta-dihydroxy-4-pregnen-3-one and 17,20beta,21beta-trihydroxy-4 pregnen-3-one (two fish specific progestins) did not show any specific binding. These results strongly suggest that this cDNA sequence encodes a rainbow trout mineralocorticoid-like receptor, and represent the first description of such a receptor in teleost fish where aldosterone, the classic mineralocorticoid, is believed to be absent.