Weekly hair washing: The recommended solution for women with afro-textured hair to alleviate dandruff and scalp discomfort.

Dandruff and scalp discomfort are common concerns for women and men in Africa. Moreover, women with afro-textured hair are prone to scalp discomfort owing to irregular hair washing, frequent use of oil-based products on their scalp, and harsh chemical treatments. Current literature does not, however, provide data on the pathophysiological mechanisms of these conditions in this population. In this study, we investigated the mechanisms behind scalp discomfort and dandruff in women of African descent before and after hair washing. We conducted the in Durban, South Africa, over a 3-week period with 60 women of African descent aged 20-40 years. The respondents were equally divided into a "dandruff" and a "no dandruff" group, based on clinical grading of adherent dandruff by a dermatologist. Malassezia spp. and bacterial loads were quantified by quantitative polymerase chain reaction. Evaluations of scalp condition and sample collection were performed at five time points during the 3 weeks. Data on discomfort symptoms were collected via a self-assessment questionnaire. We observed that the dandruff severity peaked at the end of the first week after hair washing and plateaued from thereon in both groups. Dandruff was associated with higher Malassezia and bacterial load counts and there was a direct correlation between the Malassezia spp. load and dandruff score. Via self-assessment questionnaire responses submitted by participants, we observed that itching was the most pronounced scalp discomfort, compared with the sensation of tingling and burning at baseline, while an improvement of the scalp symptoms of dandruff and itch was observed in both groups after one hair wash. The study also showed that higher colonization with Malassezia spp. and bacteria is associated with dandruff independently of the time point, confirming a scalp microbiome contribution to the dandruff pathophysiology in the study population. The benefits of washing were, however, not sustained after 1 week and we thus recommend weekly hair washing for long-term management of dandruff and scalp itchiness in this population.

Skin microbiome dysbiosis and the role of Staphylococcus aureus in atopic dermatitis in adults and children: A narrative review.

A dysfunctional epidermal barrier, which may be associated with mutations in the filaggrin gene in genetically predisposed individuals or harmful effects of environmental agents and allergens, contributes to the development of atopic dermatitis (AD) due to an interplay between the epithelial barrier, immune defence and the cutaneous microbiome. The skin of patients with AD is frequently over-colonized by biofilm-growing Staphylococcus aureus, especially during flares, causing dysbiosis of the cutaneous microbiota and a decrease in bacterial diversity that inversely correlates with AD severity. Specific changes in the skin microbiome can be present before clinical AD onset in infancy. Additionally, local skin anatomy, lipid content, pH, water activity and sebum secretion differ between children and adults and generally correlate with the predominant microbiota. Considering the importance of S. aureus in AD, treatments aimed at reducing over-colonization to rebalance microbial diversity may help manage AD and reduce flares. Anti-staphylococcal interventions in AD will contribute to a decrease in S. aureus superantigens and proteases that cause damage and inflammation of the skin barrier while concomitantly increasing the proportion of commensal bacteria that secrete antimicrobial molecules that protect healthy skin from invading pathogens. This review summarizes the latest data on targeting skin microbiome dysbiosis and S. aureus over-colonization to treat AD in adults and children. Indirect AD therapies, including emollients 'plus', anti-inflammatory topicals and monoclonal antibodies, may have an impact on S. aureus and help control bacterial diversity. Direct therapies, including antibacterial treatments (antiseptics/topical or systemic antibiotics), and innovative treatments specifically targeting S. aureus (e.g. anti-S. aureus endolysin, and autologous bacteriotherapy), may be effective alternatives to mitigate against an increase in microbial resistance and allow a proportionate increase in the commensal microbiota.

From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer.

OBJECTIVE: To decode the feeling of skin tightness after application of a cosmetic product and how to soothe this discomfort. To pursue this aim, we considered the ingredient's effect on stratum corneum (SC) biomechanics to differentiate between consumers prone to tightness from those that are not and correlate these effects with mechanoreceptor activation. METHODS: In vivo clinical trials were used to assess the tightness perception dichotomy between groups of Caucasian women; in vitro experiments were used to measure the mechanical stresses induced in the SC after cleanser and moisturizer application; and in silico simulations were used to illustrate how the measured mechanical stresses in the SC result in the development of strains at the depth of cutaneous mechanoreceptors, triggering tightness perceptual responses. RESULTS: Before any cream application, women prone to tightness tend to have a more rigid SC than their less sensitive counterparts, however cleanser application increases SC stiffness in all women. Surprisingly, no correlation was found between tightness perception and hydration measurements by the Corneometer or barrier function, as evaluated by transepidermal water loss. Self-declared tightness and dryness scores were strongly associated with a self-described sensitive skin. After application of the optimized moisturizing formula, Osmoskin® containing natural waxes with good filming properties, consumers report a strong decrease in tightness and dryness perception. These results match with laboratory experiments where the cleanser was shown to increase SC drying stresses by 34%, while subsequent application of Osmoskin® decreased stresses by 48%. Finite element modelling, using experimental results as input, elucidates the differences in perception between the two groups of women. It makes clear that Osmoskin® changes the mechanical status of the SC, producing strains in underlying epidermis that activates multiple cutaneous mechano-receptors at a level correlated with the self-perceived comfort. CONCLUSION: Integration of the in vivo, in vitro and in silico approaches provides a novel framework for fully understanding how skin tightness sensations form and propagate, and how these sensations can be alleviated through the design of an optimized moisturizer.

OBJECTIF: Décoder l'impression de tiraillement de la peau après l'application d'un produit cosmétique et la manière d'apaiser cette sensation désagréable. Pour poursuivre cet objectif, nous avons pris en compte l'effet de l'ingrédient sur la biomécanique de la couche cornée afin de différencier les consommatrices sujettes à un tiraillement de celles qui ne le sont pas et de corréler ces effets avec l'activation des mécanorécepteurs. MÉTHODES: Des essais cliniques in vivo ont été utilisés pour évaluer la dichotomie de perception de tiraillement entre des groupes de femmes de race caucasienne; des expériences in vitro ont été utilisées pour mesurer les contraintes mécaniques induites dans la couche cornée après application d'un produit nettoyant et d'un produit hydratant; et des simulations in silico ont servi à illustrer comment les contraintes mécaniques mesurées dans la couche cornée entraînent le développement de souches à la profondeur des mécanorécepteurs cutanés, qui déclenchent les réponses perceptives de tiraillement. RÉSULTATS: Avant toute application de crème, les femmes sujettes au tiraillement tendent à avoir une couche cornée plus rigide que leurs homologues moins sensibles, mais l'application d'un produit nettoyant augmente la raideur de la couche cornée chez toutes les femmes. Étonnamment, aucune corrélation n'a été observée entre la perception de tiraillement et les mesures d'hydratation réalisées par le cornéomètre ou la fonction barrière, évaluée par la perte d'eau transépidermique. Les scores de tiraillement et de sécheresse auto-déclarés étaient fortement corrélés à une peau décrite par les sujets elles-mêmes comme sensible. Après application de la formule hydratante optimisée, Osmoskin®, qui contient des cires naturelles ayant de bonnes propriétés de dépôt de film, les consommateurs rapportent une forte diminution de la sensation de tiraillement et de sécheresse. Ces résultats concordent avec les expériences en laboratoire où le produit nettoyant s'est avéré augmenter les contraintes de séchage de la couche cornée de 34 %, tandis que l'application ultérieure d'Osmoskin® a réduit les contraintes de 48 %. La modélisation à éléments finis, en utilisant les résultats expérimentaux comme données, élucide les différences de perception entre les deux groupes de femmes. Il est clair qu'Osmoskin® modifie l'état mécanique de la couche cornée, et produit des souches dans l'épiderme sous-jacent qui activent plusieurs mécano-récepteurs cutanés à un niveau corrélé au confort perçu par la patiente. CONCLUSION: La combinaison des approches in vivo, in vitro et in silico fournit un nouveau cadre pour comprendre pleinement comment les sensations de tiraillement de la peau se forment et se propagent, et comment elles peuvent être soulagées en mettant au point une crème hydratante optimisée.

In-Vivo Tape Stripping Study with Caffeine for Comparisons on Body Sites, Age and Washing.

PURPOSE: Assessing the percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients using in-vitro human skin reveals certain limitations, such as restricted anatomical sites and repeated exposure, and to overcome these issues, in-vivo studies are required. The aim of the study is to develop a robust non-invasive in-vivo protocol that should be applicable to a wide range of application. METHODS: A robust tape stripping protocol was therefore designed according to recent recommendations, and the impact of two different washing procedures on caffeine distribution in tape strips was investigated to optimise the protocol. The optimised protocol was then used to study the effect of age and anatomical area on the percutaneous absorption of caffeine, including facial areas which are not readily available for in-vitro studies. RESULTS: With tape stripping, a difference between the percutaneous absorption on the face (forehead, cheek) and the volar forearm was observed. No obvious difference was observed between percutaneous absorption in young and post-menopausal women, but this could be due to the limited number of subjects. CONCLUSION: This tape stripping protocol is now to be deployed to address many other factors, such as percutaneous absorption in other anatomical areas (e.g. abdomen, axilla, etc.), impact of repeated applications and effect of formulation.

Effect of a nutritional supplement on hair loss in women.

BACKGROUND: Female pattern hair loss is a frequent and distressing condition. AIM: To evaluate vs. control, the effects on hair loss of a 6-month supplementation with specific omega 3&6 and antioxidants. METHODS: One hundred and twenty healthy female subjects participated in this 6-month, randomized, comparative study. The primary endpoint was the change in hair density evaluated on standardized photographs. Secondary endpoints included changes in telogen hair percentage and diameter distribution of anagen hair (>40 µm vs. ≤40 µm) measured by trichogram. Overall changes in hair density and diameter were also measured by trichometer and by subjects' self-assessment. RESULTS: After 6 months of treatment, photograph assessment demonstrated a superior improvement in the supplemented group (P < 0.001). The telogen hair percentage was significantly (P < 0.001) reduced in the supplemented group. The proportion of nonvellus anagen hair (>40 µm) increased compared to the control group. The trichometer index increased in the supplemented group, while it decreased in the control group. A large majority of supplemented subjects reported a reduction in hair loss (89.9% of subjects at 6 months), as well as an improvement in hair diameter (86.1%) and hair density (87.3%). CONCLUSION: A 6-month supplementation with omega 3&6 and antioxidants acts efficiently against hair loss in improving hair density and reducing the telogen percentage and the proportion of miniaturized anagen hair. Objectively measured improvements were confirmed by the subjects' perception of efficacy.

The composition and timing of flower odour emission by wild Petunia axillaris coincide with the antennal perception and nocturnal activity of the pollinator Manduca sexta.

In the genus Petunia, distinct pollination syndromes may have evolved in association with bee-visitation (P. integrifolia spp.) or hawk moth-visitation (P. axillaris spp). We investigated the extent of congruence between floral fragrance and olfactory perception of the hawk moth Manduca sexta. Hawk moth pollinated P. axillaris releases high levels of several compounds compared to the bee-pollinated P. integrifolia that releases benzaldehyde almost exclusively. The three dominating compounds in P. axillaris were benzaldehyde, benzyl alcohol and methyl benzoate. In P. axillaris, benzenoids showed a circadian rhythm with an emission peak at night, which was absent from P. integrifolia. These characters were highly conserved among different P. axillaris subspecies and P. axillaris accessions, with some differences in fragrance composition. Electroantennogram (EAG) recordings using flower-blends of different wild Petunia species on female M. sexta antennae showed that P. axillaris odours elicited stronger responses than P. integrifolia odours. EAG responses were highest to the three dominating compounds in the P. axillaris flower odours. Further, EAG responses to odour-samples collected from P. axillaris flowers confirmed that odours collected at night evoked stronger responses from M. sexta than odours collected during the day. These results show that timing of odour emissions by P. axillaris is in tune with nocturnal hawk moth activity and that flower-volatile composition is adapted to the antennal perception of these pollinators.