Blue light: Friend or foe ?

BACKGROUND: The purpose of this study was to elucidate why some potentially damaging and beneficial effects were obtained following blue light exposures on skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Light-emitting diode (LED) devices containing 415 and 470 nm bulbs were used on normal human keratinocytes, skin biopsies and subjects with acne. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) evaluation was performed after a course of blue LED light exposures. A comparison between very small bandwidth centered at 415 nm and a combination of (415 + 470 nm) wavelengths was also carried out regarding the effects on ROS production. The effects on other targets such as opsin1 short wavelength (OPN1 SW) photoreceptor, fibrillin-1 dermal component, LL37 antimicrobial peptide and interleukin-8 (IL-8) proinflammatory cytokine were then explored. Finally, clinical pictures of acne signs were also investigated after blue LED exposures. RESULTS: Dose dependent increases of ROS production were obtained on keratinocytes exposed to increasing 415 nm LED exposures. However, a ROS decreasing first phase was observed on keratinocytes exposed to 415 + 470 nm LED exposures. Moreover, comparing the same doses of 415 nm wavelength and (415 + 470 nm) wavelength combination, 415 nm alone is more damaging than the 415 + 470 nm exposures. In case of increase in ROS, decrease in OPN1 SW photoreceptor and fragmentation of fibrillin-1 dermal fiber were observed. When conditions of ROS decrease were experienced, an increase in LL37 antimicrobial peptide and a modulation of IL-8 inflammatory response were noted, suggesting improvement in acne signs. Clinical results confirmed the benefits on inflammatory lesions on subjects with acne. CONCLUSION: Blue lights can induce beneficial and adverse effects, depending on the dose and on the spectrum width of the exposure.

Soothing Effect of Pogostemon cablin Extract (Patchouli), via Cannabinoid Receptor 2 Modulation in Human Skin.

Skin functions as a neuro-immuno-endocrine tissue with well-defined neuronal networks and functions. The endocannabinoid system has been proven to be an important, homeostatic regulator for homeostatic and inflammatory events. The system comprises endogenous or exogenous ligands and receptors (CB1 and CB2). In the present study, we evaluated the soothing properties of a Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) extract. Agonist AM1241 and antagonist AM630 were used for CB2 receptor activation/inhibition. Expression of CB2 receptor and ß-endorphin was monitored by immunohistochemistry. Skin inflammation was induced with ultraviolet B (UVB) or lipopolysaccharide (LPS), and the following markers were used to highlight the anti-inflammatory properties of the extract: transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1), interleukin receptors 1 (IL1R1), and the interleukin 6 signal transducer (IL6ST). Our results demonstrated the implication of the CB2 receptor in the skin inflammation process. The expression of CB2 receptor and ß-endorphin was increased 48 hours after application of the extract. Furthermore, patchouli extract application helped to reduce IL1R1, IL6ST, and TRPV1 expression, in skin exposed to UVB or LPS. In conclusion, the application of the patchouli extract helps maintain skin integrity and reduce skin discomfort via modulation of CB2 receptor stimulation and the subsequent ß-endorphin release.

Plant Small RNAs: A New Technology for Skin Care.

This study was performed on an aqueous extract of baobab seedcake enriched in small ribonucleic acids (RNAs) for cosmetic use. The seedcake is a by-product, obtained from Baobab seeds belonging to the Adansonia digitata species. A particular patented extraction process, named plant small RNA (PSR) technology, has been developed to retain some specific nutrient compounds, including small RNAs. Small RNAs, such as microRNAs (miRNAs), play an essential role in gene regulation. The biological potential of this new patented PSR extract was studied in skin fibroblasts and in ex vivo skin. To demonstrate the effect relative to the presence of small RNAs, the same extract in which small RNAs were removed was also tested. After observing the efficacy of PSR extract on collagen expression in ex vivo skin, different markers of senescence were investigated on fibroblasts aged by replicative senescence. The study of the expression of Drosha, an enzyme responsible for miRNA maturation, the expression of miRNA-19b, a biomarker of cellular aging, and the activity of senescence-associated ß-galactosidase showed more efficient activity of PSR extract, compared with small RNAs-free extract. Taken together, these studies demonstrate the potential of PSR extract for use in cosmetic end use applications.

Skin presenting a higher level of caspase-14 is better protected from UVB irradiation according to in vitro and in vivo studies.

Caspase-14, a cysteine endoproteinase belonging to the conserved family of aspartate-specific proteinases, was shown to play an important role in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and barrier function of the skin. In the present study, we developed a biofunctional compound that we described as a modulator of caspase-14 expression. Using normal human keratinocytes (NHK) in culture and human skin biopsies, this compound was shown to increase caspase-14 expression and partially reverse the effect of caspase-14-specific siRNA on NHK. Moreover, the increase in filaggrin expression visualized on skin biopsies and the recovery of the barrier structure after tape-stripping indicated that this compound could exhibit a beneficial effect on the skin barrier function. Considering the possible link between caspase-14 and the barrier function, a UVB irradiation on NHK and skin biopsies previously treated with the caspase-14 inducer, was performed. Results indicated that pretreated skin biopsies exhibited less signs of UV damage such as active caspase-3 and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). Likewise, pretreated NHK were protected from UV-induced genomic DNA damage, as revealed by the Comet Assay. Finally, a clinical test showed a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on the treated skin compared with placebo, under UV stress condition, confirming a protecting effect. Taken together, these results strongly suggest that, by increasing caspase-14 expression, the biofunctional compound could exhibit a protective effect on the skin barrier function, especially in case of barrier damage and UV irradiation.