Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) - the African, Asian, Polynesian and Pacific Panacea.

Tamanu or Calophyllum inophyllum has been used traditionally as a local medicine for many different purposes. The oil has been proven to be vulnerary and cicatrising in its effects. The chemicals responsible for this action are calophyllolide and inophyllum in addition to other complex polyphenols.

Natural ingredients for colouring and styling.

This paper examines some of the existing methods for colouring the hair and skin using natural material (such as henna) and proposes a parallel technology that exists in the dyeing of wool and fabrics to extend the colour range. Many of the listed plants and their derivatives are not found in Annex IV of the Cosmetic Directive and may not be used as colours; however, they do have other properties which may justify their inclusion into a product, for example, as astringent or anti-inflammatory agents. The paper concludes with some reported antigreying and hair styling preparations cited in the literature.

The Society of Cosmetic Scientists 1999 Spring Symposium. Cosmeceuticals - one small step or a giant leap? Proving benefits for botanical products.

This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active chemicals, and comparison of benefits with related members of the same family. Examples are given using the Compositae family as a primary model, other examples are given quoting the Labiatae, and Solanaceae families.

Aloe vera leaf gel: a review update.

Research since the 1986 review has largely upheld the therapeutic claims made in the earlier papers and indeed extended them into other areas. Treatment of inflammation is still the key effect for most types of healing but it is now realized that this is a complex process and that many of its constituent processes may be addressed in different ways by different gel components. A common theme running though much recent research is the immunomodulatory properties of the gel polysaccharides, especially the acetylated mannans from Aloe vera, which are now a proprietary substance covered by many patents. There have also been, however, persistent reports of active glycoprotein fractions from both Aloe vera and Aloe arborescens. There are also cautionary investigations warning of possible allergic effects on some patients. Reports also describe antidiabetic, anticancer and antibiotic activities, so we may expect to see a widening use of aloe gel. Several reputable suppliers produce a stabilized aloe gel for use as itself or in formulations and there may be moves towards isolating and eventually providing verified active ingredients in dosable quantities

Moulding techniques in lipstick manufacture: a comparative evaluation.

Synopsis This paper examines two methods of lipstick bulk manufacture: one via a direct method and the other via stock concentrates. The paper continues with a comparison of two manufactured bulks moulded in three different ways - first by split moulding, secondly by Rotamoulding, and finally by Ejectoret moulding. Full consideration is paid to time, labour and cost standards of each approach and the resultant moulding examined using some novel physical testing methods. The results of these tests are statistically analysed. Finally, on the basis of the gathered data and photomicrographical work a theoretical lipstick structure is proposed by which the results may be explained.