Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin.

OBJECTIVE: The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. METHODS: The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. RESULTS: The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%-30% only. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

OBJECTIF: l'industrie cosmétique œuvre à renforcer les revendications plus écologiques et plus sûres des processus pour répondre à la forte demande des clients de produits naturels et plus respectueux de l'environnement. La technologie d'ultrasons à haute fréquence (High-Frequency Ultrasonication Technology, HFUT) est un processus physique permettant de stabiliser les émulsions sans qu'il soit nécessaire d'ajouter des ingrédients supplémentaires, tels que des surfactants émulsifiants, aux formulations. Dans cette étude, les principales caractéristiques de formulation d'une émulsion synthétisée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées, ainsi que la cinétique de perméation de la caféine, utilisée comme ingrédient cosmétique actif modèle, dans les deux types d'émulsion. MÉTHODES: le pH, la taille des gouttelettes, et la viscosité de l'émulsion préparée par HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence ont été déterminés et comparés. La perméation de la caféine de l'émulsion HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence appliquées à la surface de modèles d'épiderme humain reconstruit a été comparée. RÉSULTATS: la formulation sans surfactants émulsifiants préparée par HFUT présentait une taille moyenne de gouttelettes presque 2 fois plus faible et une viscosité plus de 3 fois supérieure comparée à l'émulsion de référence. Malgré ces différences, l'absence de surfactants émulsifiants dans l'émulsion HFUT n'a pas significativement modifié la cinétique de perméation de la caféine dans l'épiderme humain reconstruit. Le flux à l'état d'équilibre de la caféine, le temps de latence et les coefficients de perméabilité différaient de 20 à 30 % uniquement. CONCLUSION: cette étude démontre le potentiel de la technologie HFUT à générer des produits cosmétiques topiques possédant des exigences plus faibles en termes d'ingrédients, sans perte d'efficacité, soutenant la mise en œuvre éventuelle de la technologie dans l'industrie cosmétique.

Genetic architecture and genomic selection of fatty acid composition predicted by Raman spectroscopy in rainbow trout.

BACKGROUND: In response to major challenges regarding the supply and sustainability of marine ingredients in aquafeeds, the aquaculture industry has made a large-scale shift toward plant-based substitutions for fish oil and fish meal. But, this also led to lower levels of healthful n-3 long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs)-especially eicosapentaenoic (EPA) and docosahexaenoic (DHA) acids-in flesh. One potential solution is to select fish with better abilities to retain or synthesise PUFAs, to increase the efficiency of aquaculture and promote the production of healthier fish products. To this end, we aimed i) to estimate the genetic variability in fatty acid (FA) composition in visceral fat quantified by Raman spectroscopy, with respect to both individual FAs and groups under a feeding regime with limited n-3 PUFAs; ii) to study the genetic and phenotypic correlations between FAs and processing yields- and fat-related traits; iii) to detect QTLs associated with FA composition and identify candidate genes; and iv) to assess the efficiency of genomic selection compared to pedigree-based BLUP selection. RESULTS: Proportions of the various FAs in fish were indirectly estimated using Raman scattering spectroscopy. Fish were genotyped using the 57 K SNP Axiom™ Trout Genotyping Array. Following quality control, the final analysis contained 29,652 SNPs from 1382 fish. Heritability estimates for traits ranged from 0.03 ± 0.03 (n-3 PUFAs) to 0.24 ± 0.05 (n-6 PUFAs), confirming the potential for genomic selection. n-3 PUFAs are positively correlated to a decrease in fat deposition in the fillet and in the viscera but negatively correlated to body weight. This highlights the potential interest to combine selection on FA and against fat deposition to improve nutritional merit of aquaculture products. Several QTLs were identified for FA composition, containing multiple candidate genes with indirect links to FA metabolism. In particular, one region on Omy1 was associated with n-6 PUFAs, monounsaturated FAs, linoleic acid, and EPA, while a region on Omy7 had effects on n-6 PUFAs, EPA, and linoleic acid. When we compared the effectiveness of breeding programmes based on genomic selection (using a reference population of 1000 individuals related to selection candidates) or on pedigree-based selection, we found that the former yielded increases in selection accuracy of 12 to 120% depending on the FA trait. CONCLUSION: This study reveals the polygenic genetic architecture for FA composition in rainbow trout and confirms that genomic selection has potential to improve EPA and DHA proportions in aquaculture species.

Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation.

The development and characterization of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) is an active area of R&D. RHE can replace animal tissues in pharmaceutical, toxicological and cosmetic sciences, yielding scientific and ethical advantages. RHEs remain costly, however, due to consumables and time required for their culture and a short shelf-life. Storing, i.e., freezing RHE could help reduce costs but to date, little is known on the effects of freezing on the barrier function of RHE. We studied such effects using commercial EpiSkin™ RHE stored at -20, -80 and -150 °C for 1 and 10 weeks. We acquired intrinsic Raman spectra in the stratum corneum (SC) of the RHEs as well as spectra obtained following topical application of resorcinol in an aqueous solution. In parallel, we quantified the effects of freezing on the permeation kinetics of resorcinol from time-dependent permeation experiments. Principal component analyses discriminated the intrinsic SC spectra and the spectra of resorcinol-containing RHEs, in each case on the basis of the freezing conditions. Permeation of resorcinol through the frozen RHE increased 3- to 6-fold compared to fresh RHE, with the strongest effect obtained from freezing at -20 °C for 10 weeks. Due to the extensive optimization and standardization of EpiSkin™ RHE, the effects observed in our work may be expected to be more pronounced with other RHEs.

In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the human skin: highlighting of spectral markers associated to aging via a research of correlation between Raman and biometric mechanical measurements.

Skin plays a protective role against the loss of water and external aggression, including mechanical stresses. These crucial functions are ensured by different cutaneous layers, particularly the stratum corneum (SC). During aging, the human skin reveals some apparent modifications of functionalities such as a loss of elasticity. Our investigations aimed at demonstrating that Raman microspectroscopy, as a label-free technique with a high molecular specificity, is efficient to assess in vivo the molecular composition of the skin and the alterations underwent during aging. Our approach was based on a search for correlation between Raman data collected on healthy female volunteers of different ages (from 21 to 70 years old) by means of a remote confocal Raman and skin firmness measurements used as a reference method. Raman and biometric data were then submitted to a partial least square (PLS)-based data processing. Our experiments demonstrated the potential of Raman microspectroscopy to provide an objective in vivo assessment of the skin "biological age" that can be very different from the "chronological age" of the person. In addition, Raman features sensitive to the elasticity and the fatigability of the SC were highlighted. Thereafter, calibration transfer functions were constructed to show the possibility to compare the results obtained during two distinct measurement campaigns conducted with two Raman probes of the same conception. This approach could lead to several interesting prospects, in particular by objectifying the effects of dermocosmetic products on the superficial layers of the skin and by accessing some underlying molecular mechanisms.

Investigating the relationship between changes in collagen fiber orientation during skin aging and collagen/water interactions by polarized-FTIR microimaging.

Upon chronological aging, human skin undergoes structural and molecular modifications, especially at the level of type I collagen. This macromolecule is one of the main dermal structural proteins and presents several age-related alterations. It exhibits a triple helical structure and assembles itself to form fibrils and fibers. In addition, water plays an important role in stabilizing the collagen triple helix by forming hydrogen-bonds between collagen residues. However, the influence of water on changes of dermal collagen fiber orientation with age has not been yet understood. Polarized-Fourier Transform Infrared (P-FTIR) imaging is an interesting biophotonic approach to determine in situ the orientation of type I collagen fibers, as we have recently shown by comparing skin samples of different ages. In this work, P-FTIR spectral imaging was performed on skin samples from two age groups (35- and 38-year-old on the one hand, 60- and 66-year-old on the other hand), and our analyses were focused on the effect of H2O/D2O substitution. Spectral data were processed with fuzzy C-means (FCM) clustering in order to distinguish different orientations of collagen fibers. We demonstrated that the orientation was altered with aging, and that D2O treatment, affecting primarily highly bound water molecules, is more marked for the youngest skin samples. Collagen-bound water-related spectral markers were also highlighted. Our results suggest a weakening of water/collagen interactions with age. This non-destructive and label-free methodology allows us to understand better the importance of bound water in collagen fiber orientation alterations occurring with skin aging. Obtaining such structural information could find benefits in dermatology as well as in cosmetics.

Probing in vitro ribose induced DNA-glycation using Raman microspectroscopy.

To identify and characterize glycation, induced modifications of DNA are crucial toward understanding their functional significance due to their significant role in the long term control of aging and age-related diseases. In this study, we present the ability of Raman microspectroscopy as a novel analytical technique for a rapid and reliable identification of glycated DNA in a reagent-free manner. We have demonstrated that this technique has potential to provide very small conformational modifications. The combination of principal component analysis (PCA) and two-dimensional (2D) correlation spectroscopy has assisted us to explore in vitro DNA-glycation and provide more insights into the dynamics of the DNA-glycation process in an easier fashion. PCA analysis of Raman spectra shows a clear discrimination between native and glycated DNA samples. On the other hand, 2D correlation Raman analysis provides sequential order of the mechanism of the DNA-glycation process, and most likely, it occurs in the following sequence: Structural modifications of individual nucleobases (G > A > C) → DNA backbone modifications → partial transition of DNA conformations (A to B form). Our observations clearly suggest that the structure of DNA is altered, i.e., a partial transition of DNA backbone conformation from A to B form when glycated, but does not induce any final transition in DNA double helix conformation, and eventually, DNA presents in an intermediate A-B form, more toward the B form.

Probing single-tumor cell interactions with different-age type I collagen networks by synchrotron-based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy.

We report here on a first study using synchrotron radiation-based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy and imaging to investigate HT1080 human fibrosarcoma cells grown onto different-aged type I collagen networks. Spectral images were analyzed with k-means and fuzzy C-means (FCM) clustering algorithms. K-means delineated tumor cells from their surrounding collagen networks and the latter as a function of age mainly due to specific changes in the sugar absorption region. The FCM analysis gave a better nuance of the spectral images. A progression of the biochemical information was observed upon going from the cellular compartments to the pericellular contact regions and to the intact collagens of the different age groups. Two spectral markers based on sugar and protein bands via the intensity ratio (I1032/I1655) and band area ratio (Asugar/Aamide II), showed an increase in advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs) with age. A clear-separation of the three age groups was obtained for spectra originating from the peripheral contact areas mainly due to changes in protein band intensities. The above-described markers decreased to constant levels for the three conditions indicating a masking of the biochemical information. These results hold promises to better understand the impact of age on tumor progression processes while highlighting new markers of the tumor cell invasion front.

Changes of skin collagen orientation associated with chronological aging as probed by polarized-FTIR micro-imaging.

During chronological skin aging, alterations in dermal structural proteins cause morphological modifications. Modifications are probably due to collagen fiber (type I collagen) rearrangement and reorientation with aging that have not been researched until now. FTIR microspectroscopy appears as an interesting method to study protein structure under normal and pathological conditions. Associated with a polarizer, this vibrational technique permits us to probe collagen orientation within skin tissue sections, by computing the ratio of integrated intensities of amide I and amide II bands. In this study, we used the polarized-FTIR imaging to evaluate molecular modifications of dermal collagen during chronological aging. The data processing of polarized infrared data revealed that type I collagen fibers become parallel to the skin surface in aged skin dermis. Our approach could find innovative applications in dermatology as well as in cosmetics.