Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical 0.1% Stabilized Bioactive Retinol for Photoaging: A Vehicle-Controlled Integrated Analysis.

INTRODUCTION: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet light photoages skin. Retinol, a precursor molecule to retinoic acid that causes less irritation, is available as a nonprescription, cosmetic retinoid and improves collagen production, skin elasticity, and signs of photoaging. Advances in formulation science have allowed the production of stabilized bioactive retinol formulations. This integrated analysis aims to build on previous studies and further examine the comprehensive efficacy and tolerability of topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol. METHODS: This analysis included 6 vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women with mild-to-moderate signs of photodamage. Across all studies, the same dermatologist investigator assessed overall photodamage; wrinkles on the forehead, cheeks, and undereye area; crow’s feet wrinkles and fine lines; lack of even skin tone; and brown spots at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12 on a numerical scale. Tolerability was also assessed. RESULTS: Participants (retinol, N=237; vehicle, N=234) had a mean (SD) age of 47.4 (6.6) years. Retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging vs vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks of application. Few participants experienced irritation; all events were mild to moderate and transient. The most common signs of irritation were erythema (n=2) and skin scaling/peeling (n=5). CONCLUSIONS: This pooled analysis of 6 vehicle-controlled clinical studies provides new evidence for the efficacy of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in improving signs of photoaging without causing major irritation. Topical 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol was well tolerated with only a few reported cases of skin irritation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):     doi:10.36849/JDD.8124.

A Novel Systems-Wide Approach in Addressing Acne with a Multi-Targeting Nutraceutical.

Acne vulgaris (AV) is one of the top concerns dermatologists encounter from women. Until now, therapies addressing AV have largely centered around, and have been successful at, targeting the pathophysiological mechanisms that occur at the pilosebaceous unit: sebum hypersecretion, follicular keratinization, over-proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, and a localized immune response. In addition to these, there is good evidence to suggest that other systemic drivers of a generalized inflammatory response may contribute to the development or exacerbation of acne and that addressing these underlying factors may open more opportunities for developing effective treatments. These include psycho-emotional stress, diet and metabolism, hormonal fluctuations, skin and gut microbiome, oxidative stress, and immune response. While there is accumulating evidence that vitamins, minerals, and botanicals may mitigate some of the pro-inflammatory effects from the activation of these underlying systems, their use and recommendations are limited by a lack of quality efficacy and safety evidence. Here, we present the current evidence for the use of individual supplements in addressing the 6 systemic underlying drivers of AV. We also present a clinical study on the safety and efficacy of a nutraceutical combining many of these ingredients in the management of AV in men and women.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(3):160-167     doi:10.36849/JDD.8138.

New Insights Into Systemic Drivers of Inflammation and Their Contributions to the Pathophysiology of Acne.

Acne Vulgaris (AV) is a prominent skin disease commonly affecting teenagers. It often persists into adulthood and is associated with adverse physical and psychosocial impacts. The pathophysiology of AV is conventionally correlated with 4 factors within and around the pilosebaceous unit: increased sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinization, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, and localized immune responses. As such, conventional therapeutic approaches for AV have primarily focused on these factors. In addition to this primarily localized pathophysiology, there is a progressively emerging body of evidence indicating that underlying systemic factors contributing to a generalized immuno-inflammatory response can contribute to or exacerbate AV. In this article, we introduce and provide the supporting data, for 6 patient-centric systems that may be implicated in the development of AV: psycho-emotional stress, diet and metabolism, dysbiosis of the gut and skin microbiome, hormonal fluctuations, oxidative stress, and immune response. Identifying these pathways and their contributions in a patient-centric approach may provide expanded therapeutic opportunities for treating patients with AV. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(2):90-96.   doi:10.36849/JDD.8137.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

SUPPLEMENT ARTICLE: Retinol: The Ideal Retinoid for Cosmetic Solutions.

Retinoids are a mainstay of dermatologic therapy. Although prescription retinoids are more potent than over the counter retinoids, when properly formulated cosmetic retinoids offer consumers an easily accessible, reasonably priced therapeutic option. Retinol has been shown to improve fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin roughness, and the appearance of photoaged skin. The efficacy and tolerability of retinol makes it preferable to prescription retinoids as many patients are intolerant of these more potent forms. In this review, we will discuss the pharmacokinetics of retinol and the clinical studies confirming its efficacy, tolerability, and safety with long-term use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21:7(Suppl):s4-10.

Evidence of Barrier Deficiency in Rosacea and the Importance of Integrating OTC Skincare Products into Treatment Regimens.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea, an inflammatory skin disease that leads to an impaired skin barrier function commonly involves the face. Symptoms of rosacea can be bothersome and include pain, stinging, burning, itching, and facial flushing. This review explored skin barrier impairment in rosacea and reduced symptomatology when using over the counter (OTC) skincare products. METHODS: Nine dermatologists (the panel) completed a survey on OTC products they recommend for rosacea. The survey results were summarized, presented, and discussed during the online meeting, together with the results of a literature review. The outcome of these discussions, coupled with the panel's expert opinion and experience, is shown in the current review. RESULTS: Addressing barrier dysfunction by use of moisturizer and cleanser formulations that restore skin hydration, normalize skin pH, restore the microbiome, and skin lipids can assist in improving rosacea signs and symptoms. The panel's consensus was that in addition to the use of prescription medications, skincare recommendations are a crucial part of successful rosacea therapy. In addition to occlusives and humectants, barrier restoring ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide were considered beneficial. Equally important was the absence of potentially irritating substances. CONCLUSIONS: The use of OTC products can improve rosacea symptomatology and signs. As adjuncts, these products are recommended before and during prescription therapy and as part of a maintenance regimen. J Drugs Dermatol. 20(4):384-392. doi:10.36849/JDD.5861 THIS ARTICLE HAD BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FREE OF CHARGE. PLEASE SCROLL DOWN TO ACCESS THE FULL fTEXT OF THIS ARTICLE WITHOUT LOGGING IN. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. PLEASE CONTACT THE PUBLISHER WITH ANY QUESTIONS.

Novel Facial Treatment Regimen Improves Aging Skin Appearance.

BACKGROUND: Skin care regimens with multiple active ingredients offer a multimodal approach to anti-aging treatments. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this research was to investigate the efficacy of a multimodal skincare regimen on facial skin appearance after 12 weeks of twice daily use as compared to baseline. METHOD: 35 healthy female subjects 35–65 years of age of Fitzpatrick skin types I–III with mild to moderate facial photoaging characterized by hyperpigmentation were enrolled. Subjects were seen at baseline, week 6, and week 12, and underwent subject and investigator assessments along with noninvasive evaluations (elasticity, corneometry, dermaspectrophotometer) and photography. RESULTS: Most notable at week 12 was a 60% improvement in smoothness, 82% improvement in dryness, 30% improvement in fine lines, and 24% improvement in crow’s feet. There was an 8% reduction in macule hyperpigmentation (P<0.001) at week 12, supporting excellent pigment lightening qualities for the regimen. There was a statistically significant increase in skin firmness (decrease in elasticity) as early as week 6 of 6% with further improvement observed at week 12 of 16% (P=0.002). SUMMARY: A multimodal skincare regimen with antioxidants, retinol, hydrolyzed pearl, caviar extract, peptides, and growth factors including EGF and TGF-β results in an improvement in the appearance of photoaged skin after 12 weeks of twice daily use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(3):274-278. doi:10.36849/JDD.5791.

Atmospheric skin aging-Contributors and inhibitors.

Cutaneous aging is a complex biological process consisting of 2 elements: intrinsic aging, which is primarily determined by genetics, and extrinsic aging, which is largely caused by atmospheric factors, such as exposure to sunlight and air pollution, and lifestyle choices, such as diet and smoking. The role of the solar spectrum, comprised of ultraviolet light, specifically UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400) in causing skin damage, including skin cancers, has been well documented. In recent years, the contribution of visible light (400-700 nm) and infrared radiation (above 800 nm) in causing skin damage, similar to the photodamage caused by UV light, is also being elucidated. In addition, other atmospheric factors such as air pollution (smog, ozone, particulate matter, etc.) have been implicated in premature skin aging. The skin damage caused by environmental exposure is largely attributable to a complex cascade of reactions inside the skin initiated by the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which causes oxidative damage to cellular components such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids. These damaged skin cells initiate inflammatory responses leading to the eventual damage manifested in chronically exposed skin. Novel therapeutic strategies to combat ROS species generation are being developed to prevent the skin damage caused by atmospheric factors. In addition to protecting skin from solar radiation using sunscreens, other approaches using topically applied ingredients, particularly antioxidants that penetrate the skin and protect the skin from within, have also been well documented. This review summarizes current knowledge of atmospheric aggressors, including UVA, UVB, visible light, infrared radiation (IR), and ozone on skin damage, and proposes new avenues for future research in the prevention and treatment of premature skin aging caused by such atmospheric factors. New therapeutic modalities currently being developed are also discussed.

A Novel Multi-Targeting Approach to Treating Hair Loss, Using Standardized Nutraceuticals.

Hair loss is a complicated problem that causes significant concern for those who are affected. Patients seeking medical treatment have limited options that include topical minoxidil and oral finasteride. While these treatments are backed by long term clinical use and research outcomes, many patients find topical minoxidil difficult to incorporate into their daily routine and some are concerned with the side effects associated with finasteride. In the office setting, patients may be treated with more invasive procedures such as platelet-rich plasma injections (PRP) and hair transplantation, treatments that often must be repeated and can lead to a costly investment. Consumers are increasingly interested in natural treatments for hair loss. Many turn to basic supplements only to be disappointed when they fail to deliver due to lack of standardization and efficacy. In this paper we review the benefits of a nutraceutical containing a specific blend of highly purified, standardized, bio-optimized, and bioavailable botanical extracts to treat hair loss. These phytoactives were selected because of their diverse multi-modal biologic activity against inflammation, DHT, stress mediators, oxidative damage, and intermediary signaling cascades. This supplement represents a paradigm shift as it addresses not only the factors that trigger hair loss but the downstream mediators of inflammation as well. Multi-center clinical studies are currently underway to confirm the efficacy and benefits of this unique nutraceutical.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(11 Suppl):s141-148.

Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol.

Consumers are increasingly interested in over-the-counter skin care products that can improve the appearance of photodamaged and aging skin. This 10-week, open-label, single- center study enrolled 25 subjects with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and other clinical stigmata of cutaneous aging including fine lines, sallowness, lack of clarity, and wrinkling. Their mean age was 53.4±7.7 years. The test product contained retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide 4.4%, resveratrol 1%, and hexylresorcinol 1.1% in a moisturizing base. Subjects were provided a skin care regimen including a cleanser, hydrating serum, moisturizer, and an SPF 30 sunscreen for daily use. The test product was applied only at night.

The use of this skin brightening/anti-aging cosmeceutical was found to provide statistically significant improvements in all efficacy endpoints by study end. Fine lines, radiance, and smoothness were significantly improved as early as week 2 (P<.001). By week 4, hyperpigmentation, overall skin clarity, evenness of skin tone, and wrinkles showed statistically significant improvement compared to baseline. Mild retinoid dermatitis including flaking and redness occurred early in the study as reflected by tolerability scores. By week 10, subjects reported no stinging, itching, dryness, or tingling.

The results of this open-label clinical study suggest that a topical cream containing retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide, resveratrol, and hexylresorcinol is efficacious and tolerable for skin brightening/anti-aging when used with a complementary skin care regimen including SPF 30 sun protection.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15(7):863-868.

A novel, volumizing cosmetic formulation significantly improves the appearance of target Glabellar lines, nasolabial folds, and crow's feet in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical trial.

Facial lines and wrinkles are caused by many factors including constant exposure to external elements, such as UV rays, as well as the dynamic nature of facial expression. Many cosmetic products and procedures provide global improvement to aging skin, whereas injectable therapies are frequently utilized to diminish specific, target wrinkles. Despite their broad availability, some patients are unwilling to undergo injectables and would benefit from an effective topical option. A noninvasive option to volumize target wrinkle areas could also extend benefits of commonly used cosmetic anti-aging products. To this end, a two-step formulation containing the novel, cosmetic anti-aging ingredient, N-acetyl tyrosinamide, was developed for use on targeted wrinkle areas. The tolerability and efficacy of the serum plus cream were tested for 16 weeks in women with moderate facial photodamage on predetermined wrinkle areas (glabellar lines, nasolabial folds, under eye lines, and lateral canthal (crow's feet) wrinkles) in a single-center, randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, clinical trial. Seventy women (47 Active group, 23 Vehicle group) completed the study. Digital photography, clinical grading, ultrasound and self-assessment scores confirmed improvement to wrinkle areas. The topical cosmetic formulation was statistically superior (P<0.05) to its vehicle in visually improving nasolabial folds, glabellar lines, crow's feet, and under eye wrinkles and in reducing pinch recoil time. Both the test formulation and its vehicle were tolerated well. The novel, two-step cosmetic formulation reduced the appearance of wrinkles and increased skin elasticity thus providing an effective anti-aging option for target wrinkle areas. This study suggests that in addition to its use as monotherapy for reducing targeted lines and wrinkles this cosmetic formulation may be also serve as an adjuvant to injectable therapies.

Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin.

Resveratrol is an effective anti-aging molecule with diverse biologic activity. It functions as a dual antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals and increase intrinsic antioxidant capacity. Additionally resveratrol increases mitochondrial biogenesis and has anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, and anti-cancer activity. In this paper we will focus on the use of topically applied resveratrol using a proprietary blend containing 1% resveratrol, 0.5% baicalin, and 1% vitamin E. This stabilized high concentration formulation demonstrates percutaneous absorption and alterations in gene expression such as hemoxygenase-1 (HO-1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGFA), and collagen 3 (COL3A1). Clinical assessment showed a statistically significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, skin firmness, skin elasticity, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, radiance, and skin roughness over baseline in 12 weeks. Ultrasound measurements in the periorbital area showed an average improvement of 18.9% in dermal thickness suggesting significant dermal remodeling. These studies confirm that topical resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin E are valuable ingredient that can be used for skin rejuvenation.

Resveratrol: a unique antioxidant offering a multi-mechanistic approach for treating aging skin.

Resveratrol is a botanical antioxidant with diverse biologic effects. In this paper we will review the unique antioxidant activity of resveratrol including its effects on mitochondrial function. The molecular signaling of resveratrol and cellular mechanisms that make this botanical active an important anti-aging ingredient for topical application will be discussed.

A high-potency, multimechanism skin care regimen provides significant antiaging effects: results from a double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical trial.

Skin aging is a multifaceted biological process characterized by the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation irregularities, and loss of firmness. These symptoms cannot be fully addressed by any single skin care ingredient or noninvasive cosmetic procedure. A comprehensive treatment approach, including the use of clinically proven topical skin care formulations, provides optimal antiaging effects. A high-strength skin care regimen (NeoStrata® Skin Active; NeoStrata Company, Inc, Princeton, NJ) was developed to deliver a combination of more than 35% active benefit ingredients, including the.

Innovative cosmeceuticals: sirtuin activators and anti-glycation compounds.

Skin aging is a combination of natural aging with superimposed photoaging. Naturally aged skin is thin, fragile and finely wrinkled whereas photoaged skin is rough and thickened with deep coarse wrinkles. In addition photoaging is characterized by mottled pigmentation, solar lentigines, telangectasias and a loss of elasticity. The science behind skin aging has exploded in the past decade. Skin aging has now been defined on both a cellular and molecular level. The study of genomics in aging skin provides us with potential targets as points for intervention. In this regard, the science behind skin aging becomes a platform for the development of new anti-aging strategies and products. In this paper two new and emerging approaches to treat aging skin will be discussed. Sirtuin activating and anti-glycation products are already being marketed by cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. These anti-aging approaches are backed by basic science research and the ingredients used are supported by proof of concept studies although clinical trials are often lacking. It is this bench to beauty counter approach to cosmeceuticals that remains an industry standard today.

Idebenone, green tea, and Coffeeberry extract: new and innovative antioxidants.

The use of topical antioxidants is gaining favor among dermatologists because of their broad biologic activity. Many are not only antioxidants but also have antiinflammatory and anticarcinogenic activities. Thus for dermatologists these cosmeceuticals have many potential applications. In general, topical antioxidants exert their effects by down-regulating free radical mediated pathways that damage skin. The present study will describe the science behind some of the newest topical antioxidants and outline how they can be used as part of a comprehensive skin care regimen.