Nuclear and Urinary Measurements Show the Efficacy of Sun-Protection Factor 50+ Sunscreen against DNA Photoproducts upon Real-Life Recreational Exposure.

Sunscreens have been shown to protect against UVR-induced DNA damage in human skin under laboratory conditions. We presently extended these observations to real-life conditions in volunteers after their ordinary exposure habits during summer holidays. Volunteers were randomly assigned to a control group and an educated group supplied with a SPF ≥50 sunscreen and receiving instructions for use. A questionnaire was used to determine the extent of exposure. No difference in average solar UVR exposure was found between the two groups. DNA photoprotection was first assessed by, to our knowledge, a previously unreported noninvasive assay on the basis of the quantification of pyrimidine dimers released by DNA repair in urine. Damage was also quantified in the nuclear DNA extracted from the roof of suction blisters collected after recreational exposure. The urinary concentration of photoproducts was significantly higher in the control than in the educated group. The same trend was observed for the level of photoproducts in the DNA from suction blisters. The unambiguous observation of an efficient photoprotection against DNA damage afforded by sunscreen under real-life conditions provides strong support for the efficiency of the sunscreens. In addition, the results validate the use of urinary DNA photoproducts as a noninvasive assay applicable to photoprotection.

Long-Term Use of Silybum marianum fruit extract Contributes to Homeostasis in Acne-Prone Skin-A 12-Month Follow-Up International "Real Life" Cohort Study.

BACKGROUND: Homeostasis in the differentiation programme of sebaceous stem cells has been identified as a key step in comedogenesis and should be a target for acne-prone skin care. OBJECTIVE: To report on a multicentre, year-long/real-life use study of a patented natural product containing S. marianum fruit extract proven to modulate molecular actors in the initial steps of comedogenesis. METHODS: An open-label multicentric international study, with a 12 month follow-up, included 54 teenage and young adult subjects with mild to moderate facial acne. The study was aimed at reproducing a real-life use context. RESULTS: Total lesion count mean was 88.3 at inclusion. There was a sustained, highly significant decrease over the months of clinical lesion counts (45.6% improvement after 6 months and 59.6% at 12 months) and on other efficacy markers, associated with a significant decrease in global microcomedone quantity on cyanoacrylate superficial skin surface biopsies. Importantly, the study protocol allowed the dermatologist to prescribe, if needed as in real life, any of the acne drugs registered in the acne guidelines. The exposure to these acne drugs during the whole year was calculated as a percentage of S. marianum fruit extract/352 days of use and happened to be very limited at less than 4%, which indicates a marginal contribution to the sustained clinical improvement. (Oral and local acne treatments: Lymecycline 1.46%; Doxycycline 0.24%; Adapalene 0.16% or gel association with Benzoyl peroxide 1.17%; Clindamycin 0.04%; Benzoyl peroxide 1.5%; Erythromycin 0.75%). The tolerance with daily S. marianum fruit extract long-term use was good. LIMITATIONS: The association with routine prescription acne drugs when needed, even if limited, does not allow a full evaluation of the intrinsic quantitative efficacy of S. marianum fruit extract in lesion reduction. CONCLUSION: This open, real-life, year-long multicentre study confirms a previous 48-week proof of concept study and qualifies the use of S. marianum fruit extract as a "field-dermo cosmetic" contributing to homeostasis of acne-prone skin in association with acne drugs.

High bacterial colonization and lipase activity in microcomedones.

BACKGROUND: Although acne vulgaris has a multifactorial aetiology, comedogenesis and bacteria colonization of the pilosebaceous unit are known to play a major role in the onset of inflammatory acne lesions. However, many aspects remain poorly understood such as where and when is the early stage of the Propionibacterium acnes colonization in follicular unit? Our research aimed at providing a precise analysis of microcomedone's structure to better understand the interplay between Propionibacterium acnes and follicular units, and therefore, the role of its interplay in the formation of acne lesions. METHODS: Microcomedones were sampled using cyanoacrylate skin surface stripping (CSSS). Their morphology was investigated with multiphoton imaging and their ultrastructure with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Bacterial lipase activity in the microcomedones was quantified using a dedicated enzymatic test as well as a Fourier Transform Infra-Red (FTIR) analysis. The porphyrin produced by bacteria was analysed with HPTLC and fluorescence spectroscopy. RESULTS: The imaging analysis showed that microcomedones' structure resembles a pouch, whose interior is mostly composed of lipids with clusters of bacteria and whose outer shell is made up of corneocyte layers. The extensive bacteria colonization is clearly visible using TEM. Even after sampling, clear lipase activity was still seen in the microcomedone. A high correlation, r = .85, was observed between porphyrin content measured with HPTLC and with fluorescence spectroscopy. These observations show that microcomedones, which are generally barely visible clinically, already contain a bacterial colonization.

Dermal fiber structures and photoaging.

The use of multiphoton imaging has become a standard technique to visualize the dermis fibers as it requires no specific staining. The density and organization of collagen and elastin are common markers of skin intrinsic aging and photoaging; thus, there is a need of grading this skin aging with quantitative indicators able to provide a robust evaluation of the dermis fibers' state. We propose a systematic analysis of multiphoton images of skin biopsies taken on the buttock and the forearm of patients of different ages. The intensity histograms of images were analyzed through their moments, a wavelet decomposition was done, and the wavelet coefficients distribution was fitted by a generalized Gaussian distribution. Different parameters relative to the collagen or elastin densities, organizations, and structures were calculated and exhibit phenomena specific to intrinsic or extrinsic aging. Those indicators could become a standard method to analyze the degree of skin aging (intrinsic or extrinsic) through multiphoton imaging.

Visualization of dendritic cells' responses in atopic dermatitis: Preventing effect of emollient.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic and multifactorial inflammatory skin disease involving various dendritic cells such as epidermal Langerhans cells (LC) and inflammatory dendritic epidermal cells (IDECs). Most of the clinical studies was performed on isolated cells, and thus, it would be useful to characterize directly on the human epidermal tissue the first cellular events occurred during the AD. The suction blister method was used to obtain whole epidermis samples and interstitial cutaneous fluids. Employing multiphoton microscopy, we analyzed the early dynamic behavior of inflammatory cells using Dermatophagoides pteronyssinus atopy patch test (Derp-APT) and evaluated the effects of emollient pre-application. Derp-APT application provoked rapid and strong infiltration of IDECs, and proliferation and activation of LC in the AD subjects' epidermis. Moreover, emollient pre-application strengthened the defective skin barrier and had positive effects on inflammatory cells' behavior, characterized by the complete inhibition of IDEC influx and the presence of immature LC.