Lip color measurement: A new hyperspectral imaging device.

INTRODUCTION: The lips are of significant interest among the facial features for self-perception and social interactions. Such perceptions could rely in part upon the contrast in color between the lips and the surrounding skin. In contrast to skin color, lip color ethnic diversity measurement provides a challenge and is less documented in the literature, most likely due primarily to challenges in measurement based upon the lip characteristics of size and contour. Accurate measurement and reproduction of lip color are essential to build strong cross-sectional knowledge about lip color. OBJECTIVE: This preliminary experiment of a large-scale project on lip and skin color was designed to assess accuracy in lip color measurement and recommend instruments and protocols for good measurement practice. METHODS: The study involved 19 healthy French Caucasian women. Their inferior and superior natural lip color was measured twice with three devices in order to extract the standard colorimetric parameters of lightness (L*), chroma (C*), and hue (h): the VISIA-CR® (high-resolution digital camera, Canfield Scientific Inc.); the spectrophotometer VS3200 (45°:0° spectrophotometer, MetaVue™ VS3200, X-Rite Inc.); and the SpectraFace® (new hyperspectral imaging system, Newtone Technologies). The intercomparison and color distribution between the different instruments and the measurement repeatability of each one were assessed. RESULTS: Our results showed a reliable and equivalent repeatability for the three tested instruments. Moreover, the three tools led to the same conclusion regarding lip color heterogeneity (lighter, redder, less yellow and more saturated inferior lip versus superior lip). Agreement between the SpectraFace® and the spectrophotometer measurements was higher, and the SpectraFace® allowed to identify three separated lip color typologies. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, the combination of imaging technology and hyperspectral measurement makes the SpectraFace® a useful tool to investigate lip color characterization and establish a large-scale cross-sectional knowledge study about lip color.

Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance.

OBJECTIVE: Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. METHODS: We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. RESULTS: Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. CONCLUSION: As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

OBJECTIF: Jusqu'à présent, l'évaluation standardisée des effets cosmétiques a été réalisée principalement dans des conditions immobiles telles que des photos. Dans la vie réelle, l'expérience des consommateurs des effets de leurs cosmétiques est dynamique, et certains des avantages peuvent être mieux observés en mouvement. Afin de saisir les performances des produits cosmétiques liées au mouvement, nous avons mis au point une comparaison par paires basée sur des vidéos sur une plateforme en ligne. MÉTHODES: Nous avons validé ce nouvel outil en évaluant un fard à paupières à forte réflexion lumineuse et à gradation de couleurs, particulièrement visible en mouvement selon le point de vue de l'observateur. Cette formule a été comparée à deux références commercialisées. Les trois produits ont été appliqués successivement sur la paupière de huit femmes japonaises. Les vidéos ont été prises dans des conditions de lumière, de vitesse et de position du visage normalisées, avec une caméra tournant autour du visage. Les vidéos ont été téléchargées sur une plateforme sécurisée en ligne, et l'effet 3D des paupières, l'accentuation et la gradation des couleurs ont été évalués au moyen d'un test de comparaison par paires par 60 femmes japonaises depuis leur domicile sur leur PC ou leur tablette. Ces résultats ont été mis en parallèle à une comparaison par paires sur photo par les mêmes observateurs. RÉSULTATS: La comparaison par paires sur vidéo a permis de mieux distinguer les produits par rapport à la comparaison sur photo. CONCLUSION: Par rapport à l'acquisition d'images fixes, l'évaluation des cosmétiques à partir de vidéos est plus proche de l'expérience réelle et peut permettre de mieux distinguer les produits, en particulier pour les attributs liés au mouvement.

Age-related changes to characteristics of the human eyes in women from six different ethnicities.

BACKGROUND: To describe some morphological characteristics of the eyes of women of 6 different ethnicities and ages. MATERIAL & METHODS: Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of different ethnicities and ages were taken for evaluating the effects of some makeup products (eyeliners, mascaras, eyelids makeup, etc) through a before/after comparison. Photographs corresponding to pre-applications offered opportunity to quantify, through image analysis, some features of the human eyes (height, length, ellipticity, horizontality, etc) for recording their possible variations linked to ethnicities and/or age. RESULTS: Although some minor differences between ethnicities were found (inter-pupillary distance and inner canthal distance), most eyes criteria among the 11 recorded were comparable (height and length of the eyes, ellipticity, etc). The somewhat low variability of the latter more reflects individual morphologies, at comparable ages. Asian subjects significantly differ by a much more oblique orientation of their main axis versus the horizontal inter-pupillary line. In all ethnicities, the skin aging process was found significantly altering i) the height of the eyes and ii) their orientation. Whereas the decrease of height likely results from a sagging of the upper eyelid, the decrease of orientation in all ethnicities (more marked among Asian women) possibly results from a sagging of the outer corner of the eyes. Whether this sagging may be related to the progressive outcome of crow's feet wrinkles is a plausible hypothesis. CONCLUSION: The present work is an original and complementary approach to the skin aging process prone at modifying some characteristics of women eyes of different ethnicities.

Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study.

Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm(2)) and determination of their respective sizes in mm(2). Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally refected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having "enlarged pores" like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore's morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed.

A new technique to in vivo study the corneocyte features at the surface of the skin.

PURPOSE OF THE STUDY: To design, develop and validate a new device allowing the features of corneocytes at the surface of the skin to be visualized in vivo and objectively characterized. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Monochromatic light is focused at the proximal end of a coherent bundle of optical fibres. Fluorescence of skin, stained with fluorescein, is then captured by the same fibre bundle and displayed, through a dichroic mirror, by a CCD camera. Fluorescence images are analysed using dedicated software to measure the projected area of cells. RESULTS: The new device allows the mean projected area of corneocytes to be routinely studied and quantified on most of the skin areas of the human body. Measurements carried out on two age groups of women confirm that corneocyte size on the forearm is smaller in young women than in older women. CONCLUSION: The new non-invasive device is easy to use and appear quite appropriate for cutaneous investigations carried out in clinical research.