Detergents with different chemical properties induce variable degree of cytotoxicity and mRNA expression of lipid-metabolizing enzymes and differentiation markers in cultured keratinocytes.

The knowledge how detergents with different chemical properties influence epidermal keratinocytes is sparse. In the present study, the effects of five detergents were examined with respect to cell-toxicity and mRNA expression of key-enzymes in barrier lipid production and keratinocyte differentiation markers. First, the LD(50) for each detergent were determined. Secondly, keratinocytes were exposed to sub-toxic concentrations and the mRNA expression was analysed by real-time PCR after 24 h exposure to the detergents. SLS and CAPB induced a concentration-dependent increase in the expression of enzymes producing cholesterol and ceramides, while transcripts of enzymes producing fatty acids were unaffected. SLES and cocoglucoside increased the expression of certain enzymes involved in cholesterol and fatty acid synthesis while sodium cocoamphoacetate (SCAA) stimulated expression of transcripts involved in fatty acid synthesis. The expression of differentiation markers were increased by SLS, SLES and CAPB, while SCAA and cocoglucoside exhibited no effect. The present findings show that detergents have variable effects on lipid synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation, which could partly explain their barrier destruction potential in vivo.

Variations in the mRNA expression of inflammatory mediators, markers of differentiation and lipid-metabolizing enzymes caused by sodium lauryl sulphate in cultured human keratinocytes.

Detergents are well known irritants. Effects of the detergent sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) on cell toxicity using the XTT assay and mRNA expression of inflammatory mediators, markers of keratinocyte differentiation and enzymes synthesizing barrier lipids using real-time PCR were studied in cultured differentiated keratinocytes. After exposure for 24 h to SLS concentrations at 0.002% or above, toxic effects were observed. When a lower SLS concentration (0.00075%) was used the mRNA expression of inflammatory mediators peaked around 4-8 h. The expression of enzymes involved in the synthesis of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides and markers of keratinocyte differentiation also increased but after 24 h. In cells exposed to 0.000125-0.0015% SLS, a concentration-dependent induction of the expression of inflammatory mediators was found after 4 h. Similar changes were found after 24 h for involucrin and enzymes involved in ceramide synthesis. The mRNA expression of HMG-CoA synthase and reductase, long-chain acyl-CoA synthase and transglutaminase also peaked after 24 h, but maximal induction was observed already at 0.00075% SLS. In conclusion, SLS induces an inflammatory response in keratinocytes and alters the mRNA expression of important barrier lipid enzymes and markers of keratinocyte differentiation, of possible importance for the irritant properties of SLS.