Structural activity relationship analysis (SAR) and in vitro testing reveal the anti-ageing potential activity of acetyl aspartic acid.

BACKGROUND: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap), aiming for identification of new compounds with anti-ageing properties. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to use structural activity relationship (SAR) analysis to identify a predictive mechanism of action of A-A-A. The findings from SAR will be further characterized by in vitro activity testing. Furthermore, we aimed to investigate the role of polymerized filamentous F-actin in ageing fibroblasts and to evaluate the effect of A-A-A on this model. METHODS: To predict the mode of action of A-A-A, we used the PASS computer program as a SAR model. In vitro, scratch motility tests with immortalized keratinocytes were used as a model for wound healing potential. Matrix metalloproteinase 1-3 (MMP 1-3) was analysed using multiplex protein assays (Luminex), and polymerized actin was detected by phalloidin staining in dermal fibroblasts (HDF). RESULTS: SAR analysis predicted that A-A-A would possess both epidermal and dermal activities with identification of wound healing and MMP inhibition potential. Further in vitro studies confirmed the wound healing potential using keratinocyte scratch motility assays. We were also able to confirm the dermal activities predicted by inhibition of MMP (MMP 1-3) in HDF by A-A-A. In addition, we found a positive relationship between age and F-actin expression. We also discovered that stimulation of HDF with A-A-A for 72 h significantly reduced the polymerized cytoskeletal network as visualized by inhibition of F-actin expression. In fact, A-A-A leveraged the expression of F-actin in middle-aged female fibroblasts (50 years of age) to the level of young female fibroblasts (30 years of age), corresponding to a 40% reduction in F-actin expression. CONCLUSION: Using an in silico and in vitro approach, we were able to demonstrate that A-A-A has the capacity to target different compartments of the skin through keratinocyte regeneration, MMP inhibition and relief in fibroblasts stiffness by reduction of F-actin cytoskeletal network in HDF.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness.

OBJECTIVE: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study. METHOD: Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness. RESULTS: Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient. CONCLUSION: In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

The use of gene arrays and corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti-ageing ingredients.

OBJECTIVE: The need for effective 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photodamaged skin, prompted us to develop a novel method to identify new active ingredients. The model utilized a gene profiling study with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap) to identify novel anti-ageing compounds using all-trans retinoic acid (RA) as the lead compound due to its beneficial effect on photodamaged skin and skin firmness. METHOD: A vehicle-controlled clinical study including nine healthy Caucasian female volunteers aged 57 ± 7 (mean ± SEM) exhibiting photodamage on their lower outer forearms was conducted. The volunteers applied RA once daily on photodamaged skin for 7 days, and biopsies were subjected to Affymetrix gene arrays. Connectivity mapping (Cmap), examining hundreds of gene expression profiles, was run on the gene signature of RA-treated photodamaged skin to identify small bioactive compounds. RESULTS: Affymetrix gene array identified 19 genes significantly differentially expressed after application of RA. Corresponding Cmap analysis revealed six natural bioactive compounds including N-acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) showing similar activity to RA on the differentially expressed genes identified. CONCLUSION: Based on RA mimicking gene array activity, potential use within skincare on molecular size, safety assessment and sourcing, we identified the natural amino acid, A-A-A as a potential candidate to treat ageing skin.

Influence of facial skin ageing characteristics on the perceived age in a Russian female population.

OBJECTIVE: The desire for a youthful look remains a powerful motivator in the purchase of cosmetics by women globally. To develop an anti-ageing solution that targets the need of end consumers, it is critical to understand which signs of ageing really matter to them and which influence their age perception. To date, such research has not been performed in a Russian population. The aim of this work was to identify the signs of ageing that contribute the most to an 'older' or 'younger' look for Russian women aged 40 years old and above. METHODS: The age of 203 Russian female volunteers was estimated from their standard photographs by a total of 629 female naïve assessors aged 20-65 years old. Perceived age data were related to 23 facial skin features previously measured using linear correlation coefficients. Differences in average severity of the correlating skin ageing features were evaluated between women perceived older and women perceived younger than their chronological age. Volunteers' responses to a ranking question on their key ageing skin concerns previously collected were analysed to provide an additional view on facial ageing from the consumer perspective. RESULTS: Nine facial skin ageing features were found to correlate the most with perceived age out of the 23 measured. Such results showed the importance of wrinkles in the upper part of the face (crow's feet, glabellar, under eye and forehead wrinkles), but also wrinkles in the lower half of the face associated with facial sagging (upper lip, nasolabial fold). Sagging was confirmed of key importance to female volunteers aged 41-65 years old who were mostly concerned by the sagging of their jawline, ahead of under eye and crow's feet wrinkle. The severity of hyperpigmented spots, red and brown, was also found to contribute to perceived age although to a weaker extent. CONCLUSION: By providing a clear view on the signs of ageing really matter to Russian women who are aged 40 years old and above, this research offers key information for the development of relevant anti-ageing solutions specifically targeting their needs and their desire to achieve younger-looking skin.

Transcriptional changes in organoculture of full-thickness human skin following topical application of all-trans retinoic acid.

In this study, we developed an organoculture of human skin to investigate the effect of topical applied all-trans retinoic acid using a gene array approach. We could by using this approach confirm previous studies on genes activated by RA in keratinocyte monocultures and also provide new insights on genes that are relevant to RA-activation in human skin. The results in the present study show this model represent a valuable pre-clinical model for studying the effects of retinoids in skin.

Clinical evaluation of a dioic acid-based formulation on facial skin in an Indian population.

The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12-week vehicle-controlled clinical study, the skin-lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a Rumex occidentalis extract and sunscreens (SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 Indian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) Chroma Meter® measurement (L*, a*, b*) and Individual Typology Angle (ITA˚) calculation and (B) Visual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L* and ITA˚ compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L* and ITA˚ measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15-containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin-lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and Rumex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin-lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population.

The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents--existing and new approaches.

Skin-lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin-whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin.

Glutamate receptors on human melanocytes regulate the expression of MiTF.

Glutamate is the major excitatory neurotransmitter in the central nervous system but has also important functions in the epidermis. It is involved in keratinocyte barrier function and in re-epithelialization processes after wounding. Recently, glutamate signalling has been suggested to be implicated in the development of melanoma. The present study examined the expression and functionality of metabotropic and ionotropic glutamate receptors on normal human melanocytes. We found that cultured melanocytes expressed the ionotropic glutamate receptors GluR2 and 4 [alpha-amino-3-hydroxy-5-methyl-4-isoxsazolepropionic acid (AMPA) receptors] and N-methyl-d-aspartate (NMDA) receptors 2A and 2C and possibly the metabotropic glutamate receptor 1. Melanocytes were also found to express specific glutamate transporters and decarboxylases, but appeared neither to produce nor to release l-glutamate. Stimulation with 10 or 100 microM AMPA or NMDA elevated intracellular calcium concentrations in melanocytes, and thus demonstrated the functionality of the glutamate receptors. Millimolar concentrations of l-glutamate did not induce melanocyte toxicity and had no stimulating effect on melanin production. However, blockage of AMPA and NMDA receptors with CFM-2, memantine or MK801 caused a rapid and reversible change in melanocyte morphology, which was associated with disorganisation of actin and tubulin microfilaments. After 24 h of treatment with the AMPA receptor inhibitor CFM-2, there was a sharp reduction in the expression of the crucial melanocyte differentiation and proliferation factor MiTF. The results of this study demonstrate a role for glutamate in melanocyte regulation that may have implications in melanocyte associated disorders.