Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence.

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

Clinical evaluation of the efficacy of a facial serum containing dioic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, LHA, citric acid, and HEPES in treating post-inflammatory hyperchromia and controlling oily skin in patients with acne vulgaris.

BACKGROUND: Acne is a chronic disease that affects the pilosebaceous follicle and is characterized by the presence of non-inflammatory and/or inflammatory lesions, affecting both adolescents and adults. Inflammatory acne lesions are capable to increase their melanin production and promote a post-inflammatory hyperchromia. AIMS: To assess the efficacy of a serum containing dioic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, LHA, citric acid, and HEPES in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and controlling skin oiliness in Brazilian patients with acne vulgaris. PATIENTS/METHODS: A single-center, prospective, open-label clinical study included 42 subjects, from both genders, presenting acne (grade I or II), oily skin and a clinical diagnosis of acne post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The study was conducted for 56 days, with clinical (skin quality and the number of post-inflammatory hyperchromic lesions) and instrumental (Sebumetry) evaluations after 7, 28, and 56 days of treatment. Standardized pictures were obtained using a VISIA-6® device. RESULTS: A significant decrease in the grade of post-inflammatory hyperchromic lesions was observed after 28 and 56 days, while the number of lesions decreases by 29.4% after 56 days (p < 0.001). Sebumetry values showed a significant decrease of 30.7% in the oiliness after 7 days of treatment, and then stable during the study conduction period of 56 days (p < 0.001 for all measurements). CONCLUSIONS: The daily treatment using the investigational product showed an interesting decrease both in the grade and the number of post-inflammatory hyperchromia acne lesions after 56 days, and in the oiliness after 7 days, being stable for all study period.

Estudo monocêntrico, prospectivo para avaliar a eficácia e a tolerabilidade de formulação cosmecêutica em pacientes com melasma / Monocentric prospective study for assessing the efficacy and tolerability of a cosmeceutical formulation in patients with melasma

Introdução: O melasma é doença pigmentar frequente que acomete áreas expostas, principalmente nas regiões frontal e malar. A hidroquinona se mostra ativo eficaz no tratamento da hiperpigmentação; no entanto, devido a problemas com sua tolerabilidade, diversos estudos são conduzidos para desenvolver alternativas terapêuticas com eficácia equivalente. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia e tolerabilidade de formulação cosmecêutica contendo ácido elágico, ácido hidroxifenoxi propiônico, extrato de levedura e ácido salicílico em pacientes brasileiros apresentando melasma leve a moderado. Métodos: 40 pacientes portadores de melasma leve a moderado na face utilizaram o cosmecêutico duas vezes ao dia, associado a filtro solar durante 90 dias. Foram feitas avaliações subjetivas de eficácia e tolerabilidade, medida do grau Masi e questionário MelasQoL-BP. A avaliação da luminosidade da pele e das características colorimétricas foram obtidas por meio de colorimetria. Resultados: Após 90 dias de tratamento, observou-se melhora significativa nos parâmetros clínicos avaliados, nos parâmetros colorimétricos, no questionário de qualidade de vida e no escore Masi em 43%. O tratamento se mostrou eficaz sem causar eventos adversos. Conclusões: A formulação cosmecêutica avaliada demonstrou ser alternativa eficaz à hidroquinona para o tratamento do melasma com excelente perfil de tolerabilidade cutânea.

Introduction: Melasma is a common pigmentary condition that affects exposed body areas, especially in the frontal and malar regions. Hydroquinone is an effective active principle in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, however, due to issues linked to its tolerability, many studies are being conducted aimed at developing alternative therapies with equivalent effectiveness. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a cosmeceutical formulation containing ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, yeast extract and salicylic acid in Brazilian patients with mild to moderate melasma. Methods: Forty patients with mild to moderate melasma on the face used the cosmeceutical twice daily, combined with sunscreen for 90 days. Subjective assessments of efficacy and tolerability were carried out. Measurements of the MASI grade and the application of the MELASQoL-BP questionnaire were also performed. The evaluation of the skin's brightness and the colorimetric characteristics were obtained by colorimetry. Results: After 90 days of treatment, a significant improvement could be observed in the clinical and colorimetric parameters evaluated, and in the quality of life questionnaire. In addition, the MASI score improved by 43%. The treatment was effective without causing adverse events. Conclusions: The evaluated cosmeceutical formulation was proven as an effective alternative to hydroquinone for the treatment of melasma, with excellent cutaneous tolerability profile.