Lipophilic and hydrophilic moisturizers show different actions on human skin as revealed by cryo scanning electron microscopy.

To study the mode of action of moisturizers on human skin, hydrophilic moisturizers in water and neat lipophilic moisturizers were applied on excised skin for 24 h at 32 degrees C. Samples of the treated skin were subsequently visualized in a cryoscanning electron microscope. The stratum corneum (SC) appeared as a region of swollen corneocytes (the swollen region) sandwiched between two layers of relatively dry corneocytes (the upper and lower non-swelling regions respectively). Lipophilic moisturizers increased the water content of the SC, whereas hydrophilic moisturizers can also reduce the water content of the SC. When focusing on the effect of the moisturizers on the three different regions, it was observed that cells in the swelling region are most sensitive to the application of the moisturizers and that the change in SC thickness is most influenced by the change in the thickness of the swelling region. Summarizing, SC cells are not equally sensitive to moisturizer application: centrally located corneocytes are more sensitive than corneocytes in the upper and the lowest regions of the SC.

The in vivo and in vitro interactions of elastic and rigid vesicles with human skin.

Elastic vesicles are the most novel development in vesicular systems design for dermal and transdermal drug delivery. However, interactions between these vesicles and human skin are not yet fully understood. In this study, the in vivo and in vitro interactions between elastic-, rigid vesicles and micelles with human skin were investigated. Vesicle and micelle solutions were applied onto human skin in vitro and in vivo. Subsequently, a series of tape strippings were performed, which were visualised by freeze fracture electron microscopy (FFEM). The results showed no ultrastructural changes in skin treated with rigid vesicles. Skin treated with elastic vesicles, however, showed a fast partitioning of intact vesicles into the deeper layers of the stratum corneum (SC), where they accumulated in channel-like regions. Only little vesicle material was found in the deepest layers of the SC, suggesting that the partitioning of intact vesicles from the SC into the viable epidermis is unlikely to happen. Treatment with micelles resulted in rough, irregular fracture planes. Similar results were obtained in vitro and in vivo, indicating an excellent in vitro/in vivo correlation. These results support the hypothesis that elastic vesicles have superior characteristics to rigid vesicles for the interaction with human skin. Elastic vesicles and micelles demonstrated very different interactions with human skin and hence probably also have different mechanisms of action for the enhancement of drug transport.