Nearshore wave buoy data from southeastern Australia for coastal research and management.

Wind wave observations in shallow coastal waters are essential for calibrating, validating, and improving numerical wave models to predict sediment transport, shoreline change, and coastal hazards such as beach erosion and oceanic inundation. Although ocean buoys and satellites provide near-global coverage of deep-water wave conditions, shallow-water wave observations remain sparse and often inaccessible. Nearshore wave conditions may vary considerably alongshore due to coastline orientation and shape, bathymetry and islands. We present a growing dataset of in-situ wave buoy observations from shallow waters (<35 m) in southeast Australia that comprises over 7,000 days of measurements at 20 locations. The moored buoys measured wave conditions continuously for several months to multiple years, capturing ambient and storm conditions in diverse settings, including coastal hazard risk sites. The dataset includes tabulated time series of spectral and time-domain parameters describing wave height, period and direction at half-hourly temporal resolution. Buoy displacement and wave spectra data are also available for advanced applications. Summary plots and tables describing wave conditions measured at each location are provided.

Creating communities and communicating science during COVID-19: From Coast2Coast to Coast2Cast.

The global COVID-19 pandemic has seen extended lockdowns, isolation periods and travel restrictions across many countries around the world since early 2020. Some countries, such as Australia and New Zealand, closed their international borders in early 2020 preventing researchers travelling to other parts of the world. To facilitate the exposure of our students' work, and for them to meet international researchers, as well as foster a sense of coastal community, we started a zoominar series (seminars via Zoom) in April 2020. The Coast2Coast zoominar series had therefore humble origins but we soon discovered that there was an appetite for more widely sharing science across the coastal research disciplines. The Coast2Coast zoominar grew rapidly, attracting researchers from many countries around the world who presented and attended fortnightly online seminars. In just one year and a half we had 38 presentations with roughly 1900 attendees, creating a sense of community and belonging for the researchers involved. In early 2021, two of the co-authors, Giovanni (GC) and Ana (AVC) decided to expand and take this sense of community further creating the Coast2Cast podcast series, where researchers are asked research and non-research questions. In only 7 months, the podcasts have attracted more than 3700 listeners. Importantly, while the main prerequisite was high-quality and impactful research, diversity and inclusion were also a priority in selecting and inviting speakers for the zoominars and guests for the podcast. Importantly, our survey results suggest that there is a place for online events similar to Coast2Coast and Coast2Cast in a pandemic-free future, and that the coastal community involved has greatly benefited from such initiatives.

Extreme coastal erosion enhanced by anomalous extratropical storm wave direction.

Extratropical cyclones (ETCs) are the primary driver of large-scale episodic beach erosion along coastlines in temperate regions. However, key drivers of the magnitude and regional variability in rapid morphological changes caused by ETCs at the coast remain poorly understood. Here we analyze an unprecedented dataset of high-resolution regional-scale morphological response to an ETC that impacted southeast Australia, and evaluate the new observations within the context of an existing long-term coastal monitoring program. This ETC was characterized by moderate intensity (for this regional setting) deepwater wave heights, but an anomalous wave direction approximately 45 degrees more counter-clockwise than average. The magnitude of measured beach volume change was the largest in four decades at the long-term monitoring site and, at the regional scale, commensurate with that observed due to extreme North Atlantic hurricanes. Spatial variability in morphological response across the study region was predominantly controlled by alongshore gradients in storm wave energy flux and local coastline alignment relative to storm wave direction. We attribute the severity of coastal erosion observed due to this ETC primarily to its anomalous wave direction, and call for greater research on the impacts of changing storm wave directionality in addition to projected future changes in wave heights.

A multi-decade dataset of monthly beach profile surveys and inshore wave forcing at Narrabeen, Australia.

Long-term observational datasets that record and quantify variability, changes and trends in beach morphology at sandy coastlines together with the accompanying wave climate are rare. A monthly beach profile survey program commenced in April 1976 at Narrabeen located on Sydney's Northern Beaches in southeast Australia is one of just a handful of sites worldwide where on-going and uninterrupted beach monitoring now spans multiple decades. With the Narrabeen survey program reaching its 40-year milestone in April 2016, it is timely that free and unrestricted use of these data be facilitated to support the next advances in beach erosion-recovery modelling. The archived dataset detailed here includes the monthly subaerial profiles, available bathymetry for each survey transect extending seawards to 20 m water depth, and time-series of ocean astronomical tide and inshore wave forcing at 10 m water depths, the latter corresponding to the location of individual survey transects. In addition, on-going access to the results of the continuing monthly survey program is described.