Structural and functional differences in barrier properties of African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin.

BACKGROUND: Differences in structural and functional skin characteristics have been linked with ethnical background. But racial differences in skin have not been thoroughly investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory. OBJECTIVES: This study was undertaken to compare skin barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum on African American, Caucasian and East Asian skin by objective measurements. METHODS: Baseline values of trans epidermal water loss were collected on the face. Consecutive stratum corneum D-squame tape strippings were collected on the panelist's ventral forearm and face to evaluate skin barrier strength and cohesion. Stratum corneum ceramides, maturation, measured as the transglutaminase-mediated cross-linking of stratum corneum proteins, and stratum corneum trypsin like enzyme activity were measured on the D-squame tape strippings. RESULTS: East Asian and to some extent Caucasian skin was characterized by low maturation and relatively weak skin barrier. African American skin was characterized by low ceramide levels and high protein cohesion in the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. These data can be interpreted in terms of the high prevalence of xerosis in black skin and increased skin sensitivity in East Asian skin. CONCLUSION: These results demonstrate that skin properties at the level of the stratum corneum vary considerably among these ethnic groups. This contributes to an improved understanding of physiological differences between these study populations.

Antioxidant enzyme activity in human stratum corneum shows seasonal variation with an age-dependent recovery.

The stratum corneum, as the body's principal barrier to the environment, is continuously exposed to environmental sources of reactive oxygen species like ultraviolet light, ozone, and pollution. Reactive oxygen species are believed to be involved in cancer, aging, and inflammatory skin disorders. We have developed a method to measure catalase and superoxide dismutase activity on tape strippings from the human stratum corneum and demonstrated a gradient of antioxidant enzyme activity across the stratum corneum with decreasing levels towards the skin surface. Sun exposure resulted in a seasonal variation of the catalase activity in stratum corneum, with low activities in summer and higher activities in winter for the same person, whereas superoxide dismutase activity in stratum corneum did not seem to vary in those conditions. Exposure of human skin to broadband ultraviolet-A resulted in a dose-dependent deactivation of the catalase activity in stratum corneum within 24 h, whereas exposure to ultraviolet-B had no effect. Superoxide dismutase activity in stratum corneum was not affected by ultraviolet-A or ultraviolet-B irradiation within 24 h. After exposure to a dose of 15 J per cm2 broadband ultraviolet-A, full recovery of the catalase activity occurred in 3-4 wk at an age-dependent rate. We conclude that sun exposure results in a disturbed catalase to superoxide dismutase ratio in the stratum corneum. This may lead to an increased vulnerability to oxidative damage in stratum corneum barrier components. These results therefore stress the importance of providing efficient protection for this internal defense mechanism in sun-exposed areas of the skin.