Skin occlusive performance: Sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations.

BACKGROUND: The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic, and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients. AIM: This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential. METHOD: The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 min, 2 and 6 h of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent. RESULTS: The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6 h time course. CONCLUSION: Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients, and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 min post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Deodorants and antiperspirants: identification of new strategies and perspectives to prevent and control malodor and sweat of the body.

Excessive sweating and body odors in many cultures can cause negative perceptions of an individual and in many cases is related to poor hygiene. Personal hygiene products have been developed with the intention of preventing these undesirable issues. The aim of this paper is to review the main active ingredients used in marketed deodorant and antiperspirant formulations as well as to identify new strategies and future methods to optimize such products and prevent malodor. PubMed and ScienceDirect databases were used to search for studies reporting the use of deodorants and antiperspirants, the compounds used in the formulations, their mechanisms of action and associated controversies, as well as new trends and approaches in the area. Even today, we are still using well-known and established actives such as triclosan and aluminum salts, and these are still the most used compounds in deodorants with bactericidal and antiperspirant properties. These substances have been on the market for more than 40 years, and still there are many questions concerning the safety of both actives. There is a general increased interest globally for lifestyles that focus on sustainability and more natural products such as plant sources and the use of, for example, essential oils. The research that focuses in the area of antiperspirants and deodorants is now more focused on studies of the armpit biochemistry and function and control of the microbiota present in this area. Other possible areas of interest are biotechnological solutions and finding new compounds that will interfere with the biochemistry of the process of sweat decomposition. Further approaches include formulations with probiotics which would maintain the balance of axillary microbiota.