Study of the soothing effects of troxerutin in alleviating skin sensitivity.

BACKGROUND: Transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) is associated with skin sensitivity and mainly activated by capsaicin and heat. Interestingly, troxerutin can inhibit TRPV1 activation. However, its efficacy in reducing skin sensitivity remains undetermined. AIMS: We evaluated the efficacy of troxerutin in alleviating skin sensitivity using clinical tests and in vitro experiments. METHODS: For the in vitro experiment, HaCaT keratinocytes were pretreated with different concentrations of troxerutin, followed by incubation with 50 µM capsaicin for 1, 24, or 48 h. The gene and protein expressions of four inflammatory cytokines involved in skin irritation were determined. Among 35 Korean women with sensitive skin recruited for the clinical trial, 13 were involved in assessing the immediate soothing effects of 0.1% and 0.0095% troxerutin following capsaicin irritation, whereas 22 participated in evaluating the preventive soothing effect of 10% and 1% troxerutin over 4 weeks against capsaicin- and heat-induced irritation. We evaluated the soothing rate using skin redness, visual analog scale, and high temperature sensitive index as evaluation indices. RESULTS: Troxerutin inhibited the mRNA and protein expressions of cytokines in capsaicin-treated keratinocytes. In the clinical study, 0.1% and 0.0095% troxerutin promptly alleviated capsaicin-induced skin redness, whereas 10% troxerutin notably decreased both the visual analog scale and high temperature sensitive index for capsaicin- and heat-related irritation. However, 1% troxerutin was only effective in reducing the visual analog scale in response to capsaicin irritation. CONCLUSIONS: Troxerutin can inhibit TRPV1 activation in clinical and in vitro tests.

Penetration rates into the stratum corneum layer: A novel quantitative indicator for assessing skin barrier function.

BACKGROUND: The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin epidermis, acts as an effective bi-directional barrier, preventing water loss (inside-outside barrier) and entry of foreign substances (outside-inside barrier). Although transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is a widely-used measure of barrier function, it represents only inside-outside protection. Therefore, we aimed to establish a non-invasive method for quantitative evaluation of the outside-inside barrier function and visually present a skin barrier model. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Skin barrier damage was induced by applying a closed patch of 1% sodium dodecyl sulfate to the forearms of eight participants; they were instructed to apply a barrier cream on a designated damaged area twice daily for 5 days. The SC barrier was evaluated by measuring TEWL and fluorescein sodium salt penetration rate before, immediately after, and 5 days after damage. The penetration rate was assessed using tape-stripping (TS) technique and fluorescence microscopy. RESULTS: The rates of fluorescein sodium salt penetration into the lower layers of SC differed significantly based on the degree of skin barrier damage. The correlation between penetration rate and TEWL was weak after two rounds of TS and became stronger after subsequent rounds. Five days after skin barrier damage, the penetration rate of all layers differed significantly between areas with and without the barrier cream application. CONCLUSION: Our findings demonstrated that the penetration rate was dependent on skin barrier conditions. The penetration rate and corresponding fluorescence images are suitable quantitative indicators that can visually represent skin barrier conditions.

Novel human skin surface antimicrobial peptide quantification method using a skin patch test chamber: A pilot study.

INTRODUCTION: Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) on the skin surface are related to the innate immunity of the skin in preventing external infection. Skin rinsing and tape stripping (TS) are acceptable methods for analyzing AMPs on the skin surface but have limitations, such as causing skin damage. In this study, we proposed a noninvasive method to measure AMPs on the skin surface with minimal skin damage. METHODS: Using the patch test assay, we aimed to analyze the skin surface human ß-defensin (hBDs) levels without damaging the skin barrier. The concentrations of hBDs on the skin surface were evaluated through the skin patch testing of 13 healthy subjects, and hBD-1 concentrations were compared with those obtained using the TS method in this proof-of-concept study. In addition, changes in skin physiology and concentration of hBDs under 1% sodium lauryl sulfate stimulation were monitored in 14 healthy subjects (8 young and 6 elderly subjects) for 150 h. RESULTS: The correlation between the two methods had a Pearson's coefficient of 0.640, and skin patch analysis led to a relatively less impaired barrier with no significant increase in transepidermal water loss after analysis. Age-specific comparisons suggested that higher skin surface hBD-2 concentrations were present in the young group as compared with the elderly group. Skin surface expression of hBD-2 after skin barrier disruption was also higher in the young group. CONCLUSION: Our findings show that skin patch analysis is a convenient method to analyze hBDs on the skin surface. hBDs are factors of innate immunity that can be used as an index to predict a decreased chemical immune response of skin due to aging.

Effect of the skincare product on facial skin microbial structure and biophysical parameters: A pilot study.

Daily use of cosmetics is known to affect the skin microbiome. This study aimed to determine the bacterial community structure and skin biophysical parameters following the daily application of a skincare product on the face. Twenty-five Korean women, who used the same skincare product for four weeks participated in the study. During this period, skin hydration, texture, sebum content, and pH were measured, and skin swab samples were collected on the cheeks. The microbiota was analyzed using the MiSeq system. Through these experiments, bacterial diversity in facial skin increased and the microbial community changed after four weeks of skincare product application. The relative abundance of Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus increased, significant changes in specific bacterial modules of the skin microbial network were observed, and skin hydration and texture improved. It was suggested that daily use of skincare products could affect the microbial structure of facial skin as well as the biophysical properties of the facial skin. These findings expand our understanding of the role of skincare products on the skin environment.

Validation of the elastic angle for quantitative and visible evaluation of skin elasticity in vivo.

BACKGROUND: Reduction in skin elasticity due to aging causes skin sagging and wrinkles. Although there are various objective and reliable techniques for measuring skin elasticity, it is difficult to obtain a visual representation of skin elasticity with them. Therefore, we developed a novel device, the Swing anglemeter, and analyzed its effectiveness for measuring skin elasticity of the cheek. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Forty-five healthy Korean women (age, 23-60 years) participated. The Swing anglemeter works by dropping a rubber ball on a subject's cheek, which draws a curve as it collides with the cheek. After recording the movement of the ball using the slow-motion function on a mobile phone, we defined the maximum angle at which the ball bounces off the skin as the elastic angle, using frame-by-frame video analysis. Changes in the elastic angle were assessed according to age, and correlation with the Ballistometer® results (Dia-stron Ltd., Andover, UK) was analyzed for validation. RESULTS: Elastic angles differed significantly (P < .001) according to age. A negative correlation was found between the elastic angle and age (r = -.799, P < .001). Compared with the Ballistometer® measurements, the elastic angle was negatively correlated with alpha (r = -.570, P < .001); it was positively correlated with the mean coefficient of restitution and area (r = .602, P < .001 and r = .535, P < .001, respectively). CONCLUSION: The elastic angle is a useful parameter for reflecting skin elasticity, both quantitatively and visually. Our method can help subjects understand their skin elasticity status. Therefore, we expect the device will be utilized in various fields within the cosmetic industry.

Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling.

OBJECTIVE: Lip skin dryness and chapping are major concerns related to lip skin care in many populations. The distinctive features of lip skin, such as the low water-holding capacity and weak skin barrier, are strongly associated with these problems; however, few studies have examined lip skin characteristics and the mechanisms underlying these issues. This study was conducted to identify the biophysical properties of dry lip skin and molecular targets affecting lip skin physiology. METHODS: Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss and lip skin scaling were evaluated in 40 female subjects. Skin scaling was assessed as a percentage area divided into five categories (G0, G1, G2, G3 and G4) according to the thickness level of tape-stripped corneocytes. The activities and amounts of proteases, cathepsin D and bleomycin hydrolase were measured as markers for the desquamation process and skin hydration, respectively. RESULTS: Skin hydration showed a significantly positive correlation with the percentage area of evenly thin corneocytes (G0) and negative correlations with the percentage areas of slightly thick to severely thick corneocytes (G1-G4). The corneocyte unevenness ratio (CUR) was calculated by dividing the sum of the G1, G2, G3 and G4 values with the G0 value. The CUR was significantly negatively correlated with skin hydration, suggesting that CUR is a new parameter representing the severity of lip scaling. Subjects with lower hydration and higher CUR had higher bleomycin hydrolase activity and lower cathepsin D activity, respectively, than subjects with higher hydration and lower CUR. CONCLUSION: Our study revealed a correlation between lip skin hydration and severity of lip scaling and verified the association of protease activity with the hydration and chapping state of lip skin. These observations provide a basis for further studies of the persistent problem of lip skin dryness and chapping.

OBJECTIF: La sécheresse et la gerçure de la peau des lèvres sont des préoccupations majeures liées aux soins de la peau des lèvres chez de nombreuses populations. Les caractéristiques distinctives de la peau des lèvres, telles que la faible capacité de rétention d'eau et la faible barrière cutanée, sont fortement associées à ces problèmes ; cependant, peu d'études ont examiné les caractéristiques de la peau des lèvres et les mécanismes sous-jacents à ces problèmes. Cette étude a été menée dans le but d'identifier les propriétés biophysiques de la peau sèche des lèvres et les cibles moléculaires affectant la physiologie de la peau des lèvres. MÉTHODES: L'hydratation cutanée, la perte d'eau transépidermique et la desquamation de la peau des lèvres ont été évaluées chez 40 sujets de sexe féminin. La desquamation cutanée a été évaluée en tant que pourcentage de surface, divisée en cinq catégories (G0, G1, G2, G3 et G4) en fonction du niveau d'épaisseur des cornocytes sur la bande adhésive. Les activités et quantités des protéases, de la cathepsine D et de la bléomycine hydrolase ont été mesurées comme marqueurs du processus de desquamation et de l'hydratation cutanée, respectivement. RÉSULTATS: L'hydratation cutanée a montré une corrélation significativement positive avec le pourcentage de surface avec cornocytes uniformément minces (G0), et des corrélations négatives avec les pourcentages de surface avec cornocytes légèrement épais à très épais (G1-G4). Le rapport d'irrégularité des cornocytes (Corneocyte Unevenness Ratio, CUR) a été calculé en divisant la somme des valeurs de G1, G2, G3 et G4 par la valeur de G0. Le CUR était significativement corrélé négativement avec l'hydratation de la peau, ce qui suggère que le CUR est un nouveau paramètre représentant la gravité de la desquamation des lèvres. Les sujets avec une hydratation plus faible et un CUR plus élevé présentaient une activité de la bléomycine hydrolase plus élevée et une activité de la cathepsine D plus faible, respectivement, par rapport aux sujets avec une hydratation plus élevée et un CUR plus faible. CONCLUSION: Notre étude a révélé une corrélation entre l'hydratation de la peau des lèvres et la gravité de la desquamation des lèvres, et a vérifié l'association de l'activité de la protéase avec l'état d'hydratation et de gerçure de la peau des lèvres. Ces observations fournissent une base pour d'autres études sur le problème persistant de la sécheresse et de la gerçure de la peau des lèvres.

Development of the facial glycation imaging system for in situ human face skin glycation index measurement.

BACKGROUND: The accumulation of advanced glycation end products has been proposed as a causative agent of skin aging, but there are no conventional devices for quantifying advanced glycation end-product accumulation in facial skin. AIMS: This study aimed to develop a convenient and accurate in situ advanced glycation end-product measurement system for the human face. METHODS: We developed a facial glycation imaging system, which consisted of illumination (white light-emitting diode, ultraviolet light-emitting diode) and image acquisition modules to capture face images. Advanced glycation end product-related autofluorescence and total skin reflectance were calculated to obtain the skin glycation index using an image analysis algorithm. Correlations between the skin glycation index and facial skin elasticity and age were examined in 36 healthy Korean women. RESULTS: The facial glycation imaging system was validated against a volar forearm skin autofluorescence measurement device, that is, the AGE Reader mu, with forearm skin glycation index (R = 0.64, P < .01). Cheek elasticity was negatively correlated with cheek skin glycation index (R = -0.56, R = -0.57, and R = -0.61, P < .01 for R2, R5, and R7, respectively). Age was significantly correlated with forearm skin glycation index (R = 0.44, P < .01) and cheek skin glycation index (R = 0.48, P < .01). CONCLUSION: We successfully developed a novel in situ facial skin glycation index measurement device. Our convenient and accurate system enables in situ skin glycation index monitoring for skin aging studies such as those on anti-glycation cosmetics.

Influence of quarantine mask use on skin characteristics: One of the changes in our life caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.

BACKGROUND: The influence of various environmental factors on skin properties is well known. However, there is a lack of research into the effect of quarantine masks on skin properties, even though the use of masks has significantly increased after the COVID-19 outbreak. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the influence of mask use on skin properties. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Twenty subjects were enrolled in this study. The subjects used approved quarantine masks for 6 hours a day for 2 weeks. We measured eight skin biophysical parameters: temperature, redness, pore volume, texture, elasticity, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, and pH, and evaluated acne lesions before and after using quarantine masks. The evaluation was performed on the mask-wearing area of the face. RESULTS: Skin temperature, redness, and TEWL increased significantly after a 6-hour mask use, while the sebum content increased marginally. Skin elasticity was reduced by the use of masks over 1 and 2 weeks, whereas the pore volume and the number of acne lesions increased after a 2-week mask use. The skin changes caused by mask use showed sex-based differences in the skin elasticity (after 6 hours), redness, and roughness (after 2 weeks). CONCLUSIONS: The use of quarantine masks causes a change in the skin temperature, redness, and TEWL in the short term and in skin elasticity, pores, and acne in the long term. This study revealed that prolonged mask use could have negative effects on the skin.

Inhibition of melanogenesis by piceid isolated from Polygonum cuspidatum.

Piceid (5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-ß-D-glucopyranoside) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum. Previous studies have shown that this compound has little effect on tyrosinase inhibition when compared with other stilbenes in a cell-free tyrosinase assay. Furthermore, its role for melanogenesis in melanocytes is relatively unknown. In melanocytes, piceid inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin production in a concentration-dependent manner. To explore the action of piceid on melanogenesis, we studied its effect on several key cellular enzymes and a transcriptional factor known to be involved in melanogenesis, including: tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, tyrosinase-related protein 2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Interestingly, the effects of piceid on hypopigmentation and inhibition of tyrosinase activity were better than those of arbutin, which is well known to inhibit melanin formation in melanocytes. In addition, piceid suppressed the mRNA and protein expression of the aforementioned enzymes and transcriptional factor in a concentration-dependent manner. In this regards, our results showed that piceid represents a safe and new candidate for a skin-lightening agent.