Clinical efficacy of herbal extract cream on the skin hydration, elasticity, thickness, and dermis density for aged skin: A randomized controlled double-blind study.

BACKGROUND: Traditional medicine herbal prescriptions used for the treatment of skin disease have been developed into cosmetics. Sang-Hyul-Yun-Boo-Em (SHYBE) is a mixed herbal formula prescribed for patients with yin or blood deficiency patterns of skin disease. A previous study reported that SHYBE exercises anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effects. To date, no study has reported the efficacy of cosmetics containing the SHYBE extract. AIMS: To observe the efficacy of SHYBE extract cream on hydration, elasticity, thickness, and dermis density in aged skin. METHODS: This was a double-blind randomized placebo-controlled parallel-group trial. The trial consisted of an 8-week topical application of the test or placebo products with two visits at 4-week intervals. A total of 46 healthy Korean females, aged 40-59, were enrolled in this study. Objective skin assessments for hydration, elasticity, thickness and dermis density, self-assessment, and safety assessment were conducted. RESULTS: Sang-Hyul-Yun-Boo-Em extract cream improved skin hydration, elasticity, and dermal density in Asian middle-aged females compared with placebo cream, which excluded SHYBE extract and contained other cosmetic materials. CONCLUSIONS: Sang-Hyul-Yun-Boo-Em extract cream showed anti-aging properties in middle-aged women. It could be recommended for aging skin with dryness, and loss of elasticity and density.

Inhibition of c-Kit signaling by diosmetin isolated from Chrysanthemum morifolium.

The interaction of stem cell factor (SCF) with its cognate receptor c-Kit is closely associated with the survival and maturation of melanocytes. To investigate novel depigmentation agents, we screened 2,000 plant extracts for c-Kit inhibitors to identify active small molecules by using time-resolved fluorescence enzyme assays. For the active extracts identified as inhibitors of c-Kit enzyme, we evaluated the effects of the active extracts and isolated flavonoids on c-Kit phosphorylation in MO7e/melanocytes. Anti-melanogenic activity was also examined in melanocytes and melanoderm model. The flavonoids such as diosmetin, apigenin, acacetin and luteolin isolated from Chrysanthemum morifolium were found to be active in inhibiting c-Kit both at enzyme and cellular levels. In addition, these flavonoids attenuated SCF-induced proliferation of human primary melanocytes without toxicity and suppressed ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation-mediated melanin synthesis significantly. Among the active flavonoids, diosmetin was found to inhibit SCF-induced melanogenesis in a human melanoderm model. These results strongly suggest that C. morifolium extract and diosmetin have potential to suppress SCF-/UVB-induced melanogenesis, and could be developed as anti-pigmentation agents.

Cardamonin suppresses melanogenesis by inhibition of Wnt/beta-catenin signaling.

Wnt/beta-catenin signaling plays important roles in many developmental processes, including neural crest-derived melanocyte development. Here we show that cardamonin, a calchone from Aplinia katsumadai Hayata, inhibited pigmentation in melanocytes through suppression of Wnt/beta-catenin signaling pathway. Cardamonin significantly suppressed the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase, which are melanocyte differentiation-associated markers, in human normal melanocytes, thereby decreasing intracellular melanin production. In addition, cardamonin promoted the degradation of intracellular beta-catenin that was accumulated by Wnt3a-conditioned medium (Wnt3a CM) or bromoindirubin-3'-oxime (BIO), a glycogen synthase kinase-3beta (GSK-3beta) inhibitor, in HEK293 reporter cells and human normal melanocytes. Our findings indicate that cardamonin may be a potential whitening agent for use in cosmetics and in the medical treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.