RESUMO
The use of sustainable and natural materials is an ever-increasing trend in cosmetic. Natural calcium phosphate (CaP-N) from food by-products and especially from fisheries (i.e., bones), has been suggested as a sustainable option to chemicals commonly used in cosmetic products, in particular to UV-filters in sunscreens. However, the environmental benefits and impacts of its production and use are still uncertain as they have never been quantified. In this paper, we report on toxicological characterization of CaP-N produced from incineration of fish meal in a pilot scale plant. Furthermore, we quantified the environmental burdens linked to the partial substitution of UV-filters by CaP-N through the life cycle assessment (LCA) comparing CaP-N with zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) as alternative option. CaP-N consists in a biphasic mixture 53:47 of hydroxyapatite:ß-tricalcium phosphate, and is made of round particles with a diameter in the range of a few microns. Toxicity tests on 4 aquatic species (Dunaliella tertiolecta, Tigriopus fulvus, Corophium insidiosum and Gammarus aequicauda) revealed that CaP-N does not produce any adverse effect, all the species showing EC/LC50 values higher than 100 mg L-1. Moreover, during the 96 h acute toxicity test on C. insidiosum, which is a tube-building species, the specimens built their tubes with the available CaP-N, further attesting the non-toxicity of the material. The LCA study showed that the environmental performance of CaP-N is better than that of ZnO NPs for 11 out of 16 impact categories analysed in this study, especially for the categories Ecotoxicity and Eutrophication of freshwaters (an order of magnitude lower), and with the exception of fossil resources for which CaP-N has a significantly higher impact than ZnO NPs (+140 %). Concluding, our study demonstrates that the replacement of ZnO NPs with CaP-N thermally extracted from fish bones in cosmetic products can increase their safety and sustainability.
