Clinical evaluation of photoprotective effect by a topical antioxidants combination (tocopherols and tocotrienols).

BACKGROUND: Vitamin E is among the earliest recognized antioxidants. Recent findings suggested that tocotrienols have superior activity than tocopherols. Moreover, vitamin A is well-known in dermatology for its actions, including the ultraviolet radiation absorbing property. OBJECTIVES: In view of experimental evidence for the photoprotective properties of these antioxidants, we evaluated in 30 patients with photosensitivity, the prophylactic efficacy of a new topical agent, containing tocopherols 10% and tocotrienols 0.3%, compared with retinol, simple vehicle and untreated areas. METHODS: After determination of the minimal UVB erythema dose (MED), two areas of 2 × 2 cm were selected on the buttocks of each subject, one of which was treated with the antioxidant formulation whereas the other field did not undergo any treatment. Therefore, both areas were irradiated with a twofold MED. As further controls, other two similar areas, selected on the forearm of 15 patients, were photo-irradiated similarly, 30 min after application of the simple vehicle to a field and of vitamin A in the same vehicle to the other. Reactions (erythema/oedema/itch/vesciculation) assessment was carried out assigning scores indicative of their intensity; then, mean values +DS of scores were calculated. RESULTS: The pre-treatment with the vitamin E formulation highly protects against photosensitivity, and all reactions to irradiation were significantly lower in the areas treated with the topical vitamin E formulation compared to those treated with the simple vehicle or vitamin A. CONCLUSIONS: The use of a new topical formulation containing significant concentrations of tocotrienols and tocopherols represents a promising strategy to reduce the photo-induced skin damage.

Surfactants, skin cleansing protagonists.

The correct choice of cosmetic products and cleansers is very important to improve skin hydration, to provide moisturizing benefits and to minimize cutaneous damage caused by surfactants. In fact, surfactants may damage protein structures and solubilize lipids. Soaps, defined as the alkali salts of fatty acids, are the oldest surfactants and are quite aggressive. Syndets (synthetic detergents) vary in composition and surfactant types (anionic, cationic, amphotheric, non-ionic). These new skin cleansing products also contain preservatives, fragrances, and sometimes emollients, humectants and skin nutrients. We present a revision of the literature and discuss recent findings regarding skin cleansers.

Use of topical herbal remedies and cosmetics: a questionnaire-based investigation in dermatology out-patients.

BACKGROUND: Although topical remedies and cosmetics based on herbal ingredients are becoming increasingly popular with the public due to the perception that botanical compounds are safer and healthier than their synthetic counterparts, a large number of adverse cutaneous effects of plant extracts, notably contact sensitization, have been reported in medical literature. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the prevalence of herbal compound usage in a dermatological out-patient population and to estimate the incidence of consequent cutaneous side-effects. METHODS: Four hundred patients were subjected to a self-administered 15-item questionnaire to assess both prevalence and type of topical botanical preparations used and occurrence of skin adverse reactions. RESULTS: Two hundred forty-one patients (60.25%) reported use of natural topical products, predominantly aloe, marigold, chamomile, propolis and arnica. Females used herbal products, for both medicinal and cosmetic purposes, more frequently than males. Fifteen patients (6.22%) referred one or more adverse cutaneous reactions. CONCLUSION: Herbal preparations were widely used in the examined population, but, despite the common belief in the innocuous nature of botanical extracts, the incidence of side-effects referred by the patients confirms that they should be regarded as a potential source of adverse skin events. The lack of adequate patch testing in case of suspected contact allergic dermatitis, incomplete or misleading product labelling, and the risk of chemical adulteration may represent further concerns as regards application of botanical products.