2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, a new potent melanogenesis inhibitor, exhibits a unique mode of action while preserving melanocyte integrity.

Research on new ingredients that can prevent excessive melanin production in the skin while considering efficacy, safety but also environmental impact is of great importance to significantly improve the profile of existing actives on the market and avoid undesirable side effects. Here, the discovery of an innovative technology for the management of hyperpigmentation is described. High-throughput screening tests on a wide chemical diversity of molecules and in silico predictive methodologies were essential to design an original thiopyridinone backbone and select 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) as exhibiting the most favorable balance between the impact on water footprint, skin penetration potential and performance. The effectiveness of 2-MNG was confirmed by topical application on pigmented reconstructed epidermis and human skin explants. In addition, experiments have shown that unlike most melanogenesis inhibitors on the market, this molecule is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. 2-MNG binds to certain melanin precursors, preventing their integration into growing melanin and leading to inhibition of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis, without compromising the integrity of melanocytes.

Use of in vitro ADME methods to identify suitable analogs of homosalate and octisalate for use in a read-across safety assessment.

Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties. We describe how technical aspects of conducting assays for these highly lipophilic chemicals were addressed and interpreted. There were several properties that were common to all five chemicals: they all had similar stability in gastrointestinal fluids (in which no hydrolysis to salicylic occurred); were not substrates of the P-glycoprotein efflux transporter; were highly protein bound; and were hydrolyzed to salicylic acid (which was also a major metabolite). The main properties differentiating the chemicals were their permeability in Caco-2 cells, plasma stability, clearance in hepatic models, and the extent of hydrolysis to salicylic acid. Cyclohexyl salicylate, octisalate, and homosalate were identified suitable analogs for each other, whereas butyloctyl salicylate exhibited ADME properties that were markedly different, indicating it is unsuitable. Isoamyl salicylate can be a suitable analog with interpretation for octisalate. In conclusion, in vitro ADME properties of five chemicals were measured and used to pair target and potential analogs. This study demonstrates the importance of robust ADME data for the selection of analogs in a read-across safety assessment.

Modifications induced by chemical skin allergens on the metabolome of reconstructed human epidermis: A pilot high-resolution magic angle spinning nuclear magnetic resonance study.

BACKGROUND: High-resolution magic angle spinning (HRMAS) is a nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) technique that enables the characterization of metabolic phenotypes/metabolite profiles of cells, tissues, and organs, under both normal and pathological conditions, without resorting to time-consuming extraction techniques. OBJECTIVES: To assess the impact of chemical skin sensitizers vs non-sensitizers on the metabolome of three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) by HRMAS NMR. METHODS: Based on the SENS-IS assay, 12 skin sensitizers and five non-sensitizing chemicals were investigated and applied on EpiSkin RHE at the published maximal non-irritating concentrations under the conditions of the test. The metabolome of RHE samples was then analyzed by HRMAS NMR. RESULTS: A total of 32 different metabolites were identified; 20 of these were quantified for all samples. Statistical univariate analysis showed that the tissue content of most measured metabolites (with the exception of acetate and glucose) was different in the untreated, treated with non-sensitizers, and treated with sensitizers samples. In RHE samples in contact with sensitizing chemicals, concentrations of 18 metabolites were significantly decreased. Alanine and tyrosine could not discriminate between sensitizer- and non-sensitizer-treated groups. A multivariate partial least-squares-discriminant analysis was performed on the two treated groups, discriminating sensitizing and non-sensitizing chemicals with a very good R2Y value of 0.87 and a good Q2Y value of 0.70. CONCLUSIONS: Data suggest that HRMAS NMR could be used to monitor the impact of chemicals, skin allergens vs non-sensitizers, on the metabolome of three-dimensional RHE.

Photo-pollution stress in skin: Traces of pollutants (PAH and particulate matter) impair redox homeostasis in keratinocytes exposed to UVA1.

BACKGROUND: It is likely that skin is exposed to low concentrations of pollutants such as Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) either through topical penetration by ultrafine particles or by systemic distribution. No precise estimation of pollutants in living skin is available, but literature has reported contamination of blood by PAH at concentrations in the nanomolar range. Some pollutants (PAH for example) are photo-reactive and phototoxic: sunlight and pollution might thus synergistically compromise skin health. OBJECTIVE: Here, the biological effects of particulate matter, PM extract and various PAH were compared in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and reconstructed skin model exposed to either daily UV (d-UV 300-400nm) or UVA1 (350-400nm). Impact of pollutants (PM, PAH or PM extract) combined to UV was studied on NHEK by measuring toxicity, redox homeostasis and GSH metabolism in NHEK. METHODS: NHEK were exposed to UV from solar simulator (either d-UV or UVA1) combined with pollutants. Viability, clonogenic efficiency, redox homeostasis and GSH metabolism were assessed. RESULTS: Pollutants (PAH, PM or PM extract) ±UVA1 irradiation was associated with a significant phototoxic effect that was equal to or greater than that produced by d-UV. This result is interesting considering that UVA1 represents around 80% of daily UV and reaches the dermal-epidermal junction with ease. Moreover, among PAH studied, benzo[a]pyrene and indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene were phototoxic at very low concentrations (nanomolar range) on cultured cells or in reconstructed epidermis and also impaired keratinocyte clonogenic potential at sub-toxic doses. ROS generation within cells and in the inner mitochondrial compartment, mitochondrial membrane depolarization and/or reduced ATP production were also noted. Meanwhile, intracellular glutathione concentrations transiently decreased several hours post-treatment and reduction of its synthesis by buthionine sulfoximine potentiated PAH phototoxicity. Consequently, expression of GSH neo-synthesis genes such as SLC7A11 or GCLc was upregulated several hours post-treatment. CONCLUSION: These results obtained using PAH concentrations in the range of those reported in blood of pollution-exposed people suggest that exposure to such a photo-pollution stress, particularly if chronic, may impair cutaneous homeostasis and aggravate sunlight-induced skin damage.

Xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in human skin and SkinEthic reconstructed human skin models.

Skin metabolism is becoming a major consideration in the development of new cosmetic ingredients, skin being the first organ exposed to them. In order to replace limited samples of Excised human skin (EHS), in vitro engineered human skins have been developed. 3D models are daily used to develop and evaluate new cosmetic ingredients and have to be characterized and compared with EHS in terms of metabolic capabilities. This work presents the determination of apparent catalytic parameters (apparent Vmax, Km and the ratio Vmax/Km) in 3D models compared with EHS for cytochrome P450 dependent monooxygenase isoforms involved in drug metabolism, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases, aldehyde dehydrogenases, peroxidases, glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyl transferases, uridinyl diphosphate glucuronyl transferases and sulfotransferases. Results show that all these enzymes involved in the metabolism of xenobiotics are expressed and functional in the EHS and 3D models. Also, the Vmax/Km ratios (estimating the intrinsic metabolic clearances) show that the metabolic abilities are the most often comparable between the skin models and EHS. These results indicate that the 3D models can substitute themselves for EHS to select cosmetic ingredients on the basis of their metabolism, efficacy or/and safety.

Comparison of xenobiotic metabolizing enzyme activities in ex vivo human skin and reconstructed human skin models from SkinEthic.

Skin function is not limited to a physical barrier. According to its total surface area, it is also considered as an extra-hepatic metabolizing organ. In vitro engineered human skins have been developed to replace limited ex vivo normal human skin samples (NHS). Thus, assessing and comparing skin models from SkinEthic [Episkin™, RHE™ and the full thickness model (FTM)] with NHS in terms of metabolic capability are essential. The apparent activities of main cutaneous isoforms of cytochrome P450-dependent monooxygenases (CYP1A1/1B1, 2B6/2C18/2E1, 3A5/3A7), esterase, glutathione-S-[(GST), A, M, P, T], N-acetyl-(NAT1), uridinyl-diphosphate glucuronyl-(UDPGT 1A family) and sulfo-(SULT1A1) transferases were determined using probe substrates. Mean activities indicative of CYP1A1/1B1 (expressed as pmol/mg protein/6 h) in RHE™ (2.8) and FTM (2.6) were very similar to NHS (3.0) while Episkin™ showed a higher activity (9.1). Activities of CYP3A5/3A7 in FTM (3.3) and Episkin™ (3.6) were similar to NHS (3.8) while activity in RHE™ (13.3) was higher. CYP2B6/2C18/2E1 activity was below LOQ (0.5) in all skin models and NHS. Comparable intrinsic metabolic clearances were measured between NHS and skin models for esterase, UDPGT, GST and NAT1 activities. SULT1A1 activity toward probe substrates was not detected in skin models and observed at the limit of detection in NHS. Weak cytochrome P450-dependent monooxygenases, high esterase and transferase activities suggested that NHS and skin models exhibited limited functionalization and much greater detoxification (hydrolytic and conjugating) capacities. These results demonstrate that skin models are similar to NHS in terms of metabolic functionality toward xenobiotics investigated and useful tools to assess both the local efficiency and safety of cosmetics.