Dual Functionalization of Hyaluronan Dermal Fillers with Vitamin B3: Efficient Combination of Bio-Stimulation Properties with Hydrogel System Resilience Enhancement.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogels are commonly used for facial dermal filling and for alternative medical aesthetic purposes. High diversity exists in commercial formulations, notably for the optimization of finished product stability, functionality, and performance. Polyvalent ingredients such as calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) or vitamin B3 (niacinamide) are notably used as bio-stimulants to improve skin quality attributes at the administration site. The aim of the present study was to perform multi-parametric characterization of two novel cross-linked dermal filler formulas (HAR-1 "Instant Refine" and HAR-3 "Maxi Lift") for elucidation of the various functional impacts of vitamin B3 incorporation. Therefore, the HAR products were firstly comparatively characterized in terms of in vitro rheology, cohesivity, injectability, and resistance to chemical or enzymatic degradation (exposition to H2O2, AAPH, hyaluronidases, or xanthine oxidase). Then, the HAR products were assessed for cytocompatibility and in vitro bio-stimulation attributes in a primary dermal fibroblast model. The results showed enhanced resilience of the cohesive HAR hydrogels as compared to JUVÉDERM® VOLBELLA® and VOLUMA® reference products in a controlled degradation assay panel. Furthermore, significant induction of total collagen synthesis in primary dermal fibroblast cultures was recorded for HAR-1 and HAR-3, denoting intrinsic bio-stimulatory effects comparable or superior to those of the Radiesse® and Sculptra™ reference products. Original results of high translational relevance were generated herein using robust and orthogonal experimental methodologies (hydrogel degradation, functional benchmarking) and study designs. Overall, the reported results confirmed the dual functionalization role of vitamin B3 in cross-linked HA dermal fillers, with a significant enhancement of hydrogel system stability attributes and the deployment of potent bio-stimulatory capacities.

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products.

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.