Liposomogenic UV Absorbers are Water-Resistant on Pig Skin-A Model Study With Relevance for Sunscreens.

An important property of sunscreens is their water resistance after the application on human skin. In this work, the hypothesis that UV absorber molecules which are able to form liposomes, so-called liposomogenic UV absorbers, show better water resistance on a pig skin model than UV-absorbing molecules lacking this ability was tested. The assumption behind is that molecules which can form liposomes are able to integrate into the stratum corneum lipids of the skin. Three different liposomogenic UV absorbers were synthesized and their behavior investigated, leading to the confirmation of the hypothesis. With one of the liposomogenic UV absorbers, it was possible to show the integration of the UV absorber molecules into the bilayers of another liposome consisting of phosphatidylcholine, supporting the assumption that liposomogenic UV absorbers exhibit improved water resistance because they integrate into the skin lipids.

Physical properties of organic particulate UV absorbers used in sunscreens II. UV-attenuating efficiency as function of particle size.

In this study the UV-attenuating properties of microparticles consisting of a benzotriazole derivative were investigated, which are used as absorbers for UV radiation in cosmetic sunscreens. The particles were micronized in presence of a dispersing agent by means of a ball milling process. According to the energy input different particle sizes were produced in the range of 0.16 to 4 microm. In order to study even smaller particles, the sample with particle size 0.16 microm was fractionated further by centrifugation. Particle sizes were measured using fiberoptic quasi-elastic light scattering (FOQELS) and laser diffractometry. The UV-attenuating properties of the dispersions with different particle sizes were assessed using UV spectroscopy. With decreasing particle size the efficiency of the UV extinction of the dispersion increases up to a particle size of 80 nm. For particles smaller than 80 nm the UV extinction decreases again indicating an optimum at 80 nm. From reflection spectroscopic measurements it was found that scattering makes about 10%, and absorption 90%, of the UV-attenuating effect of the particles, which are obtained at the end of the milling process.

Physical properties of organic particulate UV-absorbers used in sunscreens. I. Determination of particle size with fiber-optic quasi-elastic light scattering (FOQELS), disc centrifugation, and laser diffractometry.

In this study microparticles consisting of a benzotriazole derivative, which are used as absorbers for UV radiation in cosmetic sunscreens, were investigated. The particles were micronized in presence of a dispersing agent by means of a ball milling process. According to the energy input different particle sizes were produced in the range of 0.16 to 4 microm. The particle sizes obtained after different stages of the micronization process were measured using fiber-optic quasi-elastic light scattering (FOQELS), disc centrifugation, and laser diffractometry. All methods showed satisfactory agreement over the whole range of sizes. With the FOQELS technique the particle size distribution could be resolved to sizes well below 0.1 microm.