RESUMO
BACKGROUND: Essential oils have great interest among the increasing demand for herbal cosmetics in the market. They are natural sources of biologically active ingredients due to the wide application of such compounds as well as their particular chemical composition. Several researches have evaluated the effectiveness of these bioactive ingredients for use in cosmeceuticals, mainly in both hair scalp and shaft hair damage repair. Thus, the amounts and their associations define the properties of these compositions with interest for hair cosmetic use, such as antioxidant, inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Because they are complex compounds, their actions on the skin, hair scalp, and shaft are not yet fully understood. AIMS: The purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant researches and findings on essential oils in hair care. METHODS: In order to achieve this objective, the present work comprises an updated bibliographic review related to essential oils used in hair care. RESULTS: It was possible to observe that cosmeceuticals containing essential oils applied to the scalp are preferable for topical activity. Also, it was noticed that there are few reports regarding their use in hair shaft. However, it was found that some oils are used to intensify the brightness and fix the hair color. CONCLUSIONS: This work demonstrated that the use of essential oils in both cosmetic products (industrial application) and those associated with oils carriers (as individual protocols) may lead to satisfactory results in the treatment of some scalp dysfunctions.
Assuntos
Cosmecêuticos , Cosméticos , Óleos Voláteis , Cosmecêuticos/química , Cosméticos/química , Cabelo , Humanos , Óleos Voláteis/farmacologia , Óleos Voláteis/uso terapêutico , PeleRESUMO
Abstract Development and validation of a simple and fast method of high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) for the simultaneously analysis of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate is presented. These substances were separated using a Kromasil C18 (250×4.6 mm, 5 μm) column, methanol: water (88:12 v/v) as the mobile phase, and a flow rate of 0.8 mL min−1. The experiment was performed at room temperature and elution was under isocratic conditions. Quantification was performed by external calibration at the wavelength of 325 nm. The validated parameters included linearity, selectivity, precision (repeatability), intermediate precision, accuracy, limit of detection, limit of quantification and robustness. The results of validation were statistically treated using the Action Stat version 3.5.152.34. The selectivity was also evaluated in the presence of two cyclodextrins (2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium). The absence of parallelism between the curves of octyl p-methoxycinnamate in the absence and presence of the β-cyclodextrin sulfobutyl ether sodium in the mobile phase revealed interference from this matrix, thereby indicating the necessity of validating the method in the presence of this, and other matrices. The proposed method was selective, linear, precise, accurate, and robust for the simultaneous determination of rutin, avobenzone, and octyl p-methoxycinnamate.
RESUMO
Urocanic acid is a chromophore found in the skin that has been identified as an important immunosuppressant and carcinogenesis mediator through its photoisomerization from trans to cis form induced by ultraviolet radiation. Research on analytical methods that explore urocanic acid isomerization is indispensable to fully understand the deleterious effects mediated by this biomarker. In this context, the current relevant analytical methods for determination of these isomers in human samples are summarized in this review. The methods presented here are applicable to human samples collected by noninvasive methods (or minimally invasive), encompassing an array of analytical techniques, including high-performance capillary electrophoresis, confocal Raman spectroscopy, gas chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, and mass spectrometry, among others. Developed high-performance liquid chromatography methods have proven to be advantageous, allowing noninvasive collections for in vivo analysis and the confocal Raman, specially, for real-time analysis. Among all these methods, high-performance liquid chromatography is the most investigated one with mass spectrometry or ultraviolet detector, and the mass spectrometry detector being the most studied in the last years, demonstrating high sensitivity, very low detection limits, and accurate identification, especially for clinical investigations.
Assuntos
Ácido Urocânico/análise , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão , Cromatografia Gasosa-Espectrometria de Massas , Humanos , Análise Espectral RamanRESUMO
A radiação UV pode causar danos à pele humana, e, evitar estes danos, é uma preocupação crescente para a população e um desafio à comunidade científica. Para uma ação efetiva de fotoproteção, a associação de filtros, como avobenzona (BMBM) e ρ-metoxicinamato de octila (EHMC), são empregados. Devido à semelhança estrutural com os filtros solares químicos, a rutina (RUT), tal como outros flavonoides, apresenta atividade fotoprotetora. Apesar da disponibilidade de diferentes classes de filtros solares, o desenvolvimento de fotoprotetores contendo filtros químicos é um desafio, devido à instabilidade inerente a certos filtros orgânicos. As ciclodextrinas (CDs) são oligossacarídeos cíclicos, de formato tronco-cônico, cuja estrutura externa é hidrófilica e sua cavidade interna central hidrofóbica, com a capacidade de acomodar substâncias lipofílicas, formando complexos de inclusão. A formação dos complexos de inclusão pode levar à alterações de propriedades físico-químicas da molécula hóspede, tais como, solubilidade, fotoestabilidade e biodisponibilidade. O objetivo deste trabalho foi desenvolver, caracterizar e avaliar a formação de complexos de inclusão entre RUT, BMBM e EHMC e as CDs (HPßCD e SBEßCD). Os complexos de inclusão (RUT:HPßCD, RUT:SBEßCD, BMBM:HPßCD, BMBM:SBEßCD, EHMC:HPßCD e EHMC:SBEßCD) foram obtidos pelo método de liofilização e quantificados por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). Os sistemas binários foram caracterizados em solução, pelo método de equilíbrio de solubilidade, e, no estado sólido, empregando calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC), termogravimetria (TG/DTG) e difração de raios-X de pó (PDRX). As substâncias isoladas e os complexos binários foram avaliados quanto à fotoestabilidade em estado sólido, e, em solução. Incremento na solubilidade (X mcg mL-1) foi observado para os complexo RUT:HPßCD (4,13x); RUT:SBEßCD (4,38x); BMBM:HPßCD (43,3x); BMBM:SBEßCD (53,3x); EHMC:HPßCD (12,7x); e EHMC:SBEßCD (70,0x). Os ensaios de DSC, TG/DTG, e P-DRX indicaram a formação de complexos de inclusão para os todos os sistemas, onde a supressão dos eventos endotérmicos característicos das substâncias isoladas foram observados; porém, nos complexos de BMBM, a presença de avobenzona livre no meio foi detectada, sugerindo, que a complexação não foi completa. A formação dos complexos de inclusão promoveu o aumento da fotoestabilidade em todos os sistemas avaliados, tanto no estado sólido, como em solução. Os resultados reportados neste estudo, indicaram que a complexação de substâncias fotoprotetoras com HPßCD e SBEßCD, pode representar, uma estratégia promissora quanto ao aumento da solubilidade e da fotoestabilidade
UV radiation may cause demage on human skin, and preventing it, is an increasing worry for the population and a challenge to the scientific community. For an effective action of photoprotection, the association of filters, like avobention (BMBM) and octyl ρ-methoxycinnamate (EHMC), are used. Due to the structural similarity with the chemical solar filters, the rutin (RUT), like other flavonoids, shows photoprotective activity. Despite the availability of different classes of sunscreens, the development of photoprotectors containing chemical filters is a challenge, due to the inherent instability of certain organic filters. The cyclodextrins (CD) are cyclic oligosaccharides of truncated conical structure, which external structure is hydrophilic and its internal central hydrophobic cavity, with capacity to accommodate lipophilic substances, forming inclusion complexes. The formation of the inclusion complexes can lead to changes in physicalchemical properties of the host molecule, such as, solubility, photostability and bioavailability. The objective of this work was to develop, characterize and evaluate the formation of the inclusion complexes between RUT, BMBM and EHMC and the CDs (HPßCD and SBEßCD). The inclusion complexes (RUT:HPßCD, RUT:SBEßCD, BMBM:HPßCD, BMBM:SBEßCD, EHMC:HPßCD and EHMC:SBEßCD) were obtained by the lyophilization method and quantified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The binary systems were characterized in solution, by solubility equilibrium method and in solid state, using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetry (TG/DTG) and powder X-ray diffraction (P-XRD). The isolated substances and binary complexes were evaluated the photostability in solid state, and in solution. The increase in solubility (X mcg mL-1) was observed for the complexes RUT:HPßCD (4.13x); RUT:SBEßCD (4.38x); BMBM:HPßCD (43.3x); BMBM:SBEßCD (53.3x); EHMC:HPßCD (12.7x); and EHMC:SBEßCD (70.0x). The analysis of DSC, TG/DTG, and P-DRX indicated the formation of inclusion complexes for all systems, where the suppression of the endothermic events characteristic of the isolated substances were observed; however, in the BMBM complexes, the presence of free avobenzone was detected, suggesting that the complexation was not complete. The formation of inclusion complexes promoted the increase of photostability in all evaluated systems, as in solid state as in solution. The results reported in this study indicated that the complexation of photoprotective substances with (HPßCD e SBEßCD). may represent a promising strategy for increasing solubility and photostability
Assuntos
Rutina/análise , Ciclodextrinas , Oligossacarídeos/classificação , Protetores Solares , Termogravimetria/métodos , Raios Ultravioleta , Varredura Diferencial de Calorimetria , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão/métodos , Liofilização/métodosRESUMO
Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides composed of D-glucopyranoside units linked by glycosidic bonds. Their main property is the ability to modify the physicochemical and biological characteristics of low-soluble drugs through the formation of drug:CD inclusion complexes. Inclusion complexation requires that host molecules fit completely or partially within the CD cavity. This adjustment is directly related to the physicochemical properties of the guest and host molecules, easy accommodation of guest molecules within the CD cavity, stoichiometry, therapeutic dose, and toxicity. However, dosage forms may achieve a high volume, depending on the amount of CD required. Thus, it is necessary to increase solubilization efficiency in order to use smaller amounts of CD. This can be achieved by adding small amounts of water-soluble polymers to the system. This review addresses aspects related to drug complexation with CDs using water-soluble polymers to optimize the amount of CD used in the formulation in order to increase drug solubility and reduce dosage form volume.
Ciclodextrinas (CDs) são oligossacarídeos cíclicos, compostos por unidades D-glicopiranosídicas ligadas entre si por meio de ligações glicosídicas e sua principal propriedade está na capacidade de alterar as características físico-químicas e biológicas de fármacos com baixa solubilidade por meio da formação de complexos de inclusão fármaco:CD. Para a formação dos complexos de inclusão a molécula hospedeira necessita ajustar-se total ou parcialmente no interior da cavidade da CD, onde este ajuste está diretamente ligado a propriedades físico-químicas da molécula hóspede e hospedeira, facilidade de alojamento da molécula hóspede no interior da cavidade da CD, estequiometria, dose terapêutica e toxicidade. No entanto, as formas farmacêuticas podem atingir um elevado volume, em função da quantidade de CD requerida, sendo necessário aumentar sua eficiência de solubilização para que seja possível utilizar menores quantidades das mesmas. Isso pode ser obtido com a inclusão de pequenas quantidades de polímeros hidrossolúveis ao sistema. Nessa revisão, são abordados aspectos relacionados à complexação de fármacos com ciclodextrinas empregando-se polímeros hidrossolúveis para otimização da quantidade de CD utilizada na formulação, com a finalidade de aumentar a solubilidade do fármaco e reduzir o volume das preparações.