Clinical and metagenomic profiling of hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations.

INTRODUCTION: Acne is one of the most common skin concerns of unknown etiology, often connected to the menstrual cycle in women, and possibly to the microbial profile and function. OBJECTIVE: We aimed to investigate how hormonal fluctuation affects hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations in relation to skin clinical parameters and microbial profiles. METHODS: We evaluated skin features by using biophysical and topographical tools. For microbial profiling, we sequenced facial skin microbiota and associated the findings with the skin clinical parameters during the different phases of the menstrual cycle. RESULTS: We identified differences between and within hormonal phases in women of Chinese and Caucasian origin. Changes were discovered in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, hydration level, and pore volume. The most abundant identifiable genera in both ethnicities were Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Streptococcus, without any significant abundant differences within the menstrual cycle. Interestingly, 11 bacterial metabolic pathways were downregulated in Chinese compared to Caucasian skin during the follicular phase. The majority of these pathways were associated with skin redox balance, perhaps indicating a weaker oxidative stress response in Chinese versus Caucasian skin. Novosphingobium taxa were increased in the Chinese skin microbiome, which has been reported to protect skin from pollution-mediated oxidative stress. CONCLUSION: Thus, this pilot study explored some of the clinical and metagenomic changes in acne-prone skin, and provide guidance to tailor-personalized skin care regimes during the menstrual cycle. Also, the skin redox status in acne-prone skin, provides more opportunity to tailor-personalized skin care regimes.

Targeting microRNA for improved skin health.

BACKGROUND: In human skin, miRNAs have important regulatory roles and are involved in the development, morphogenesis, and maintenance by influencing cell proliferation, differentiation, immune regulation, and wound healing. MiRNAs have been investigated for many years in various skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, as well as malignant tumors. Only during recent times, cosmeceutical use of molecules/natural active ingredients to regulate miRNA expression for significant advances in skin health/care product development was recognized. AIM: To review miRNAs with the potential to maintain and boost skin health and avoid premature aging by improving barrier function, preventing photoaging, hyperpigmentation, and chronological aging/senescence. METHODS: Most of the cited articles were found through literature search on PubMed. The main search criteria was a keyword "skin" in combination with the following words: miRNA, photoaging, UV, barrier, aging, exposome, acne, wound healing, pigmentation, pollution, and senescence. Most of the articles reviewed for relevancy were published during the past 10 years. RESULTS: All results are summarized in Figure 1, and they are based on cited references. CONCLUSIONS: Thus, regulating miRNAs expression is a promising approach for novel therapy not only for targeting skin diseases but also for cosmeceutical interventions aiming to boost skin health.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging.

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated "genome-microbiome-exposome" effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

DermaTOP Blue and Antera 3D as methods to assess cosmetic solutions targeting eyelid sagging.

BACKGROUND: As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end. METHODS: Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities. RESULTS: The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters. CONCLUSION: Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine.

BACKGROUND: The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product. AIMS: In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one. METHODS: Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream). RESULTS: Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles. CONCLUSION: These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

From contact angle titration to chemical force microscopy: a new route to assess the pH-dependent character of the stratum corneum.

Despite of its complex multicomponent organization and its compact architecture, the Stratum corneum (SC) is not completely impermeable to substances directly applied on the skin surface. A huge number of works have been dedicated to the understanding of the mechanisms involved in substance permeation by exploring deeper layers than the SC itself. Surprisingly, there is a poor interest in studies relating to interactions which may occur in the near-surface region (i.e. approximately 1 nm depth) of the SC. In this work, equilibrium proton-transfer reactions have been used as probes to define in a fundamental point of view the nature of the SC interactions with its environment. Such titration curves are investigated on 'in vitro' SC (isolated SC from abdominal skin tissue) and on 'in vivo' volar forearm (a sebum poor area). The results are discussed in term of work of adhesion and surface pKa values. Because SC can 'reconstruct' under heating, influence of the temperature on titration curves is investigated and the role of the different components is discussed. Different sigmoidal transitions were observed. Two common pKa values (pKa(1) = 4 and pKa(2) = 11.5) were clearly identified in both cases and associated to an acid-base character. By playing with the temperature of 'in vitro' SC, the 'accessibility' of polar functions was increased, thus refining the results by revealing an amphoteric character with an acid-to-base transition at pH 3.5 and two acid transitions at pH = 6.5 and pH = 11.5. Adhesion forces between an Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) tip and a single isolated corneocyte through buffered liquid media were also investigated to better understand the role of the individual corneocytes.

Disposition and biotransformation of 14C-Benzo(a)pyrene in a pig ear skin model: ex vivo and in vitro approaches.

Biotransformation of chemicals by the skin is a critical determinant of systemic exposure in humans following dermal absorption. Pig ear skin potentially represents a valuable alternative model since it closely resembles to human skin. We developed an ex vivo pig ear skin system which absorption, diffusion and metabolic capabilities were investigated using benzo(a)pyrene [B(a)P] as a model molecule. The potential of the ex vivo pig ear skin model to biotransform xenobiotics was compared with metabolic data obtained using dermal and hepatic microsomes from human and pig. (14)C-B(a)P [50-800 nmol] was applied on the surface of skin models. The diffusion and the production of B(a)P metabolites were quantified by radio-HPLC, LC-MS/MS and NMR. B(a)P was extensively metabolized by pig ear skin explants, the major metabolites being B(a)P-glucuronide and sulfate conjugates. B(a)P-OHs, B(a)P-diols, B(a)P-catechols and B(a)P-diones were also identified. In the pig ear skin model developed, skin diffusion was maintained over 72 h and both phase I and phase II activities were expressed, with the formation of similar metabolites as produced in incubations with liver and skin microsomal fractions. This ex vivo model, which combines a functional skin barrier and active biotransformation capabilities, appears to represent a valuable alternative tool in transdermal exposure studies.

Percutaneous absorption and metabolism of [14C]-ethoxycoumarin in a pig ear skin model.

The biotransformation of chemicals by the skin can be a critical determinant of systemic exposure in humans following dermal absorption. Pig ear skin, which closely resembles human skin, is a candidate ex vivo alternative model for the investigation of xenobiotics penetration and metabolism. We developed an ex vivo pig ear skin model and explored its absorption, diffusion and metabolic capabilities using the model compound (14)C-ethoxycoumarin (7-EC). Experimentations were undertaken on pig ear skin explants after application of various (14)C-EC doses. Diffusion was quantified as well as the production of 7-EC metabolites resulting from phases I and II enzyme activities, using radio-HPLC. After 48h, most of the radioactivity was absorbed and was recovered in culture media (70%) or in the skin itself (10%). 7-EC metabolites were identified as 7-hydroxycoumarin (OH-C) and the corresponding sulfate (S-O-C) and glucuronide (G-O-C) conjugates. Their formation followed Michaelis-Menten kinetics with saturation reached around 100 microM of 7-EC. Results demonstrate that dermal absorption as well as phases I and II enzymatic activities of pig skin are both functional. This model should represent a valuable alternative for the study of the transdermal exposure to chemicals, combining a functional dermal barrier and active biotransformation capabilities.

Characterisation of B(a)P metabolites formed in an ex vivo pig skin model using three complementary analytical methods.

An original method was developed to separate, identify and quantify the different benzo(a)pyrene (B(a)P) metabolites formed through oxidative and conjugative pathways. All B(a)P metabolites were separated by an improved high-performance liquid chromatography method, then detected and quantified relatively by online radioactivity detection. At the same time, metabolite structures were characterised by tandem mass spectrometry using two complementary ionisation modes: electrospray ionisation in the negative mode and atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation in the positive mode. This method was successfully applied to the analysis of B(a)P metabolites, produced by incubation of B(a)P with the ex vivo pig ear skin model. These include glucuronic acid and sulphate conjugates of B(a)P-OHs and B(a)P-diols, as well as direct phase I metabolites: B(a)P-tetrol, B(a)P-diones, B(a)P-catechols, B(a)P-diols and B(a)P-OHs.

Caspase-3 activation and DNA damage in pig skin organ culture after solar irradiation.

In the present study, a convenient and easy-to-handle skin organ culture was developed from domestic pig ears using polycarbonate Transwell culture inserts in 12-well plate. This alternative model was then tested for its suitability in analyzing the short-term effects of a single solar radiation dose (from 55 to 275 kJ.m(-2)). Differentiation of the pig skin was maintained for up to 48 h in culture, and its morphology was similar to that of fresh human skin. Solar irradiation induced a significant release of the cytosolic enzymes lactate dehydrogenase and extracellular signal-related kinase 2 protein in the culture medium 24 h after exposure. These photocytotoxic effects were associated with the formation of sunburn cells, thymine dimers and DNA strand breaks in both the epidermis and dermis. Interestingly, cell death was dose dependent and associated with p53 protein upregulation and strong caspase-3 activation in the basal epidermis. None of these cellular responses was observed in non-irradiated skin. Finally, topical application of a broad-spectrum UVB + A sunfilter formulation afforded efficient photoprotection in irradiated explants. Thus, the ex vivo pig ear skin culture may be a useful tool in the assessment of solar radiation-induced DNA damage and apoptosis, and for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Slow internal release of bioactive compounds under the effect of skin enzymes.

A new strategy for the skin delivery of bioactive compounds has been developed, using enzymes involved in the maintenance of the epidermal barrier function and the enzymatic transformation of corresponding precursors. This new strategy has been tested with regard to two enzymatic activities of the skin barrier: extracellular glucosidase and esterase/lipase. An analysis of the requirements for the glycosidic bond hydrolysis of any glycoconjugate by beta-glucocerebrosidase indicates that the release of the moiety linked to the glucose unit is obtained as long as the glycosidic bond being broken is not hindered, and as long as the leaving group property of the released moiety is good enough. This strategy was first applied to the release of the antioxidant delta-tocopherol. It was then extended to retinoic acid by introducing a spacer between the glucose unit and the bioactive moiety. This spacer was either a good leaving group such as hydroquinone, or a structure akin to a ceramide, namely glycerol. In these conditions, beta-glucocerebrosidase releases the complex spacer-active compound that is cleaved by an esterase. One of the advantages of this strategy lies in the slow release of the bioactive compound, extending in time its effect and most likely its tolerance, as is the case for retinoic acid.

The contribution of calpains in the down-regulation of Mdm2 and p53 proteolysis in reconstructed human epidermis in response to solar irradiation.

The p53 protein accumulates in human skin cells in vitro and in vivo when UV-irradiated. The transient stability of p53 requires a decrease in the activity of the ubiquitin ligase murine double minute 2 (Mdm2). Solar light irradiation (52.5, 105 and 405 mJ/cm2) of reconstructed human epidermis caused cutaneous damage. Specifically, UV-B induced the formation of sunburn cells and at first, an increase in the accumulation of p53 protein. Unexpectedly, 24 h after irradiation, a specific proteolytic cleavage of p53 resulted in the formation of a 40 kDa fragment. Both the accumulation of p53 and the proteolytic cleavage increased, commensurate with the UV dose. In contrast to p53, the level of expression of Mdm2 decreased drastically with the UV dose. It is important to note that calpastatin (20 microM), a specific inhibitor of calpains, decreased the formation of sunburn cells, inhibited the cleavage of p53 and induced an accumulation of Mdm2. The apoptotic process is strongly repressed. This demonstrates for the first time that calpains can participate in the down-regulation of Mdm2 in the epidermis very rapidly after UV irradiation, and that they contribute to a specific cleavage of p53 protein. All of these processes may be involved in the apoptotic response of the skin to UV stimulation.

Skin absorption and metabolism of a new vitamin E prodrug, delta-tocopherol-glucoside: in vitro evaluation in human skin models.

The aim of this study was to investigate the cutaneous penetration and metabolism of the new vitamin E prodrug delta-tocopherol glucoside (delta-TG), as compared to those of common vitamin E acetate, in vitro, both in reconstituted human epidermis and in viable human skin. Better diffusion was observed with alpha-tocopherol acetate (alpha-TAc) than with delta-tocopherol glucoside in both skin models, at 0.1% and 0.05% in a myritol solution; however, no metabolism was detected with alpha-tocopherol acetate. In all conditions tested (two skin models, two concentrations, three test times, and compartmental analysis) the delta-tocopherol glucoside was metabolized into free tocopherol. In the reconstituted human epidermis, after 18 h, over 90% of the delta-tocopherol glucoside was bioconverted. In the viable human skin, the extent of metabolism was about 20%, with 0.12 and 0.10 microg/cm2 of delta-tocopherol glucoside in the stratum corneum and epidermis, respectively. After topical application, the delta-tocopherol glucoside had a considerable reservoir effect, associated with gradual delivery of free tocopherol. The use of this gluco-conjugated vitamin E at a low concentration shows the capability of the skin to metabolize the prodrug in a slow and prolonged manner, making this gluco-conjugated vitamin E an excellent candidate for continuous reinforcement of antioxidants in the skin.

Assessment of the skin photoprotective capacities of an organo-mineral broad-spectrum sunblock on two ex vivo skin models.

UV irradiation can cause cutaneous damage that may be specific according to the wavelength of UV rays. For example, damage from UVB irradiation manifests itself in the form of sunburn cells and enhancement of the expression of p53, while damage from UVA exposure results in an increase in the expression of vimentin. These reactions to UV irradiation were used in this work to evaluate the photoprotective capacities of two sunblock preparations that were applied to the surface of the skin. One sunblock preparation is a UVB absorber containing zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium oxide (TiO2) exclusively. The other sunblock preparation is a new organo-mineral sunblock containing Tinosorb M, OCM, ZnO and TiO2. Evaluation of the photoprotective capacities of both preparations on hairless rat skin and on in vitro reconstructed human epidermis revealed that they were effective in preventing UVB-induced damage. In contrast, only the organo-mineral sunblock was effective in the prevention of UVA-specific damage such as dermal alterations characterized by the expression of vimentin. Furthermore, our data support the fact that hairless rat skin and in vitro reconstructed human epidermis are a reliable basis for the evaluation of the photoprotective capacities of various sunscreens against UVB and UVA damage.

Modifications of in vitro skin penetration under solar irradiation: evaluation on flow-through diffusion cells.

The effect of solar irradiation on ex vivo dermatomed hairless rat skin samples maintained in culture on flow-through diffusion cells for at least 24 h was evaluated by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay and by histological observations. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements and kinetic analysis of the permeation of both tritiated water and 14C caffeine through the skin were performed after full-spectrum solar exposure involving the use of a xenon arc solar simulator. After a UV exposure of less than 420 mJ/cm2, skin integrity and permeation of both water and caffeine did not change significantly. In contrast, after a 420 mJ/cm2 UV exposure, the epidermis appeared more contracted, associated with an increase of 55% of TEWL and 220% of the skin permeation of tritiated water after 6 h. The data suggested a dramatic alteration of the skin barrier integrity. Moreover, the flux of 14C caffeine increased rapidly by 338% of the absorption of water 12 h after irradiation. These results reveal the presence of a threshold UV exposure that would not modify skin penetration.