Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups.

INTRODUCTION: We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa. METHODS: Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms. RESULTS: No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans. CONCLUSION: The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population.

INTRODUCTION: Nous décrivons les différences de composition en céramides et de niveaux des enzymes du métabolisme des oméga-O-acylcéramides du stratum corneum facial (SC) photo-exposé et photo-protégé chez des femmes Albinos Africaines, Noires Africaines et Caucasiennes vivant en Afrique du Sud. MÉTHODES: Les prélèvements ont été effectués sur la joue photo-exposée et sur le site post-auriculaire (PA) photo-protégé à l'aide de disques adhésifs. Dans deux sous-groupes, des analyses protéomiques (n = 18) et lipidomiques (n = 24) ont été réalisées à l'aide de plateformes de spectrométrie de masse non-ciblées. RÉSULTATS: Aucune différence significative de quantité globale de céramides ou dans les différentes classes de céramides n'a été observée entre les femmes Noires Africaines et les femmes Caucasiennes, quels que soient les échantillons (Joue ou de PA). Comparativement aux deux autres groupes, les quantités de céramides totales, ainsi que certaines espèces d'oméga-O-acylcéramides, étaient plus élevés chez les femmes Albinos Africaines. Sur la joue, les céramides (CER) EOS, EOH et CER AS étaient plus élevés que chez les femmes Caucasiennes, tandis que les CER EOP et EOdS étaient plus élevés que chez les femmes Noires Africaines. De plus, sur le site PA, les CER EOP et EOdS étaient plus élevés que chez les femmes Noires Africaines et les CER EOdS chez les Caucasiennes. Des diminutions des niveaux d'enzymes 12R-LOX et eLOX3 ont été observées sur les joues par rapport aux sites PA dans tous les groupes ethniques. Sur les sites PA, le niveau de 12RLOX était notablement plus faible chez les femmes Albinos Africaines comparativement aux femmes Noires Africaines et Caucasiennes. Sur les joues, le niveau de SDR9C7 était également plus faible chez les Albinos Africaines. CONCLUSION: La masse des céramides totaux était similaire entre les femmes Noires Africaines et Caucasiennes. Cependant, des niveaux élevés de céramides totaux et excessivement élevés des oméga-O-acylcéramides sélectionnés, ont été observés chez les femmes Albinos Africaines. Les résultats obtenus chez les femmes Albinos Africaines étaient surprenants car ces participantes souffrent d'une altération de la fonction de la barrière cutanée. Néanmoins, les niveaux élevés d'oméga-O-acylcéramides peuvent en premier lieu contribuer à l'insuffisance de la barrière en ayant un impact direct sur le comportement de la phase lipidique du SC et/ou, deuxièmement, peuvent indiquer une fixation réduite des céramides à l'enveloppe lipidique des cornéocytes et une maturation réduite des cornéocytes pouvant aussi altérer la barrière. En outre, des différences dans les niveaux d'expression des enzymes de transformation de l'oméga-O-acylcéramide ont été observées pour 12R-LOX et SDR9C7 chez les femmes Albinos Africaines. Ceci indique une désorganisation de l'échafaudage lipidique des cornéocytes dans cette population.

Effect of regioisomers of hydroxystearic acids as peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor agonists to boost the anti-ageing potential of retinoids.

INTRODUCTION: We report on the in vitro and ex vivo effects of chiral (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) compared with other mono-hydroxystearic acid regioisomers and stearic acid (SA) together with its benefit when combined with retinol. METHODS: Following treatment with hydroxystearic acids peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor alpha (PPARα) activity was determined in a luciferase reporter gene assay, collagen type I was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts by immunohistochemistry, modification of the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics and collagen type III was assessed by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. RESULTS: 10-HSA was the most effective PPARα agonist (15.7× induction; p < 0.001), followed by 9-HSA (10.1× induction) and then 12-HSA (4.9× induction) with 17-HSA (1.7× induction) being similar to the effects of stearic acid (1.8× induction). Collagen type I levels were increased in primary human fibroblasts by 2.12× and 1.56× for 10-HSA and 9-HSA, respectively, in vitro with the10-HSA being significant (p < 0.05), whereas 12-HSA and SA had no statistical effect over the untreated control. 10-HSA and 12-HSA modified the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome slightly with significant increases in collagen alpha-1 (VI) and alpha-3 (VI) proteins but only 10-HSA increased levels of collagen alpha-2 (V), alpha-1 (III), alpha-1 (I) and alpha-2 (I) (all p < 0.05) with the increases being significantly different between 10-HSA and 12-HSA for collagen alpha-1 (I), collagen-3 (VI) and collagen alpha-2 (I) (p < 0.01). Collagen type III in ex vivo skin was increased +47% (p < 0.05) by 0.05% (1.7 mM) retinol, +70% (p < 0.01) by 0.01% (0.33 mM) 10-HSA and the combination increased levels by +240% (p < 0.01 for either ingredient). CONCLUSION: Chiral (R)-10-HSA has been shown to be superior to 9, 12 and 17-HSA as a PPARα agonist. Moreover, 10-HSA stimulated collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast culture as assessed by proteomics and immunohistochemically. Furthermore, we also show the synergistic effects of 10-HSA with retinol on collagen III synthesis in skin explants. These results further highlight the efficacy of 10-HSA as a cosmetically acceptable PPARα agonist and anti-ageing ingredient.

INTRODUCTION: Nous rapportons les effets in vitro et ex vivo de l'acide chiral (R)-10-hydroxystéarique (10-HSA) par rapport à d'autres régioisomères d'acide mono-hydroxystéarique et à l'acide stéarique (SA) ainsi que ses avantages lorsqu'il est associé au rétinol. MÉTHODES: Après un traitement avec des acides hydroxystéariques, l'activité du récepteur alpha activé par les proliférateurs peroxysomaux (PPARα) a été déterminée dans un test du gène rapporteur de la luciférase, le collagène de type I a été évalué dans les fibroblastes dermiques humains primaires par immunohistochimie, la modification du protéome du collagène des fibroblastes intracellulaires a été étudiée par spectrométrie de masse. La protéomique et le collagène de type III ont été évalués par immunohistochimie sur la peau humaine ex vivo. RÉSULTATS: la 10-HSA était l'agoniste PPARα le plus efficace (induction 15,7X ; p<0,001), suivi de la 9-HSA (induction 10,1X) puis de la 12-HSA (induction 4,9X) avec la 17-HSA (induction 1,7X) étant similaire aux effets de l'acide stéarique (induction 1,8X). Les niveaux de collagène de type I ont été augmentés dans les fibroblastes humains primaires de 2,12X et 1,56X pour la 10-HSA et la 9-HSA respectivement in vitro, la 10-HSA étant significative (p<0,05) : alors que la 12-HSA et la SA n'ont eu aucun effet statistique sur le témoin non traité. La 10-HSA et la 12-HSA ont légèrement modifié le protéome du collagène des fibroblastes intracellulaires avec des augmentations significatives des protéines de collagène alpha-1 (VI) et alpha-3 (VI), mais seule la 10-HSA a augmenté les niveaux de collagène alpha-2 (V), alpha -1 (III), alpha-1 (I) et alpha-2 (I) (tous p<0,05) avec des augmentations significativement différentes entre 10-HSA et 12-HSA pour le collagène alpha-1 (I), le collagène- 3 (VI) et Collagène alpha-2 (I) (p<0,01). Le collagène de type III dans la peau ex vivo a augmenté de +47 % (p<0,05) de 0,05 % (1,7 mM) de rétinol, de +70 % (p<0,01) de 0,01 % (0,33 mM) de 10-HSA et la combinaison a augmenté les niveaux de +240 % (p<0,01 pour chaque ingrédient). CONCLUSION: La chiral (R)-10-HSA s'est avérée supérieure à 9, 12 et 17-HSA en tant qu'agoniste de PPARα. De plus, la 10-HSA a stimulé la synthèse de collagène dans la culture de fibroblastes monocouche telle qu'évaluée par protéomique et immunohistochimique. De plus, nous montrons également les effets synergiques de la 10-HSA avec le rétinol sur la synthèse du collagène III dans les explants de peau. Ces résultats soulignent en outre l'efficacité de la 10-HSA en tant qu'agoniste de PPARα et ingrédient anti-âge cosmétiquement acceptable.

Prediction of skin anti-aging clinical benefits of an association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins: Ex vivo evaluation using a label-free quantitative proteomic and customized data processing approach.

BACKGROUND: The application of ingredients from marine and maritime origins is increasingly common in skin care products, driven by consumer expectations for natural ingredients. However, these ingredients are typically studied for a few isolated in vitro activities. OBJECTIVES: The purpose of this study was to carry out a comprehensive evaluation of the activity on the skin of an association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins using label-free quantitative proteomic analysis, in order to predict the clinical benefits if used in a skin care product. METHODS: An aqueous gel containing 6.1% of ingredients from marine and maritime origins (amino acid-enriched giant kelp extract, trace element-enriched seawater, dedifferentiated sea fennel cells) was topically applied on human skin explants. The skin explants' proteome was analyzed in a label-free manner by high-performance liquid nano-chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry. A specific data processing pipeline (CORAVALID) providing an objective and comprehensive interpretation of the statistically relevant biological activities processed the results. RESULTS: Compared to untreated skin explants, 64 proteins were significantly regulated by the gel treatment (q-value ≤ 0.05). Computer data processing revealed an activity of the ingredients on the epidermis and the dermis. These significantly regulated proteins are involved in gene expression, cell survival and metabolism, inflammatory processes, dermal extracellular matrix synthesis, melanogenesis and keratinocyte proliferation, migration, and differentiation. CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that the tested ingredients could help to preserve a healthy epidermis and dermis, and possibly to prevent the visible signs of skin aging.

New High-Performance Liquid Chromatography Coupled Mass Spectrometry Method for the Detection of Lobster and Shrimp Allergens in Food Samples via Multiple Reaction Monitoring and Multiple Reaction Monitoring Cubed.

Crustacean shellfish allergy ranks among the most frequent and severe food allergies for adults, demanding rugged and sensitive analytical routine methods. The objective of this study was therefore to develop a mass spectrometric approach for the detection of contamination with shrimp and lobster, two economically important types of crustaceans, in complex food matrices. Following a biomarker approach, we identified proteotypic peptides and developed a multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method allowing for the identification and differentiation of shrimp and lobster in the food matrix at concentrations down to 0.1%. To further enhance sensitivity, we employed the MRM-cubed (MRM(3)) mode, which allowed us to detect crustaceans down to concentrations of 25 µg/g (crustacean/food, 0.0025%). We hereby present the first mass spectrometric method for the detection of shrimp and lobster in food matrices.

Regulation of Arabidopsis leaf hydraulics involves light-dependent phosphorylation of aquaporins in veins.

The water status of plant leaves depends on the efficiency of the water supply, from the vasculature to inner tissues. This process is under hormonal and environmental regulation and involves aquaporin water channels. In Arabidopsis thaliana, the rosette hydraulic conductivity (Kros) is higher in darkness than it is during the day. Knockout plants showed that three plasma membrane intrinsic proteins (PIPs) sharing expression in veins (PIP1;2, PIP2;1, and PIP2;6) contribute to rosette water transport, and PIP2;1 can fully account for Kros responsiveness to darkness. Directed expression of PIP2;1 in veins of a pip2;1 mutant was sufficient to restore Kros. In addition, a positive correlation, in both wild-type and PIP2;1-overexpressing plants, was found between Kros and the osmotic water permeability of protoplasts from the veins but not from the mesophyll. Thus, living cells in veins form a major hydraulic resistance in leaves. Quantitative proteomic analyses showed that light-dependent regulation of Kros is linked to diphosphorylation of PIP2;1 at Ser-280 and Ser-283. Expression in pip2;1 of phosphomimetic and phosphorylation-deficient forms of PIP2;1 demonstrated that phosphorylation at these two sites is necessary for Kros enhancement under darkness. These findings establish how regulation of a single aquaporin isoform in leaf veins critically determines leaf hydraulics.

Towards the profiling of the Arabidopsis thaliana plasma membrane transportome by targeted proteomics.

Plant membranes bear a variety of transporters belonging to multigene families that are affected by environmental and nutritional conditions. In addition, they often display high-sequence identity, making difficult in-depth investigation by current shot-gun strategies. In this study, we set up a targeted proteomics approach aimed at identifying and quantifying within single experiments the five major proton pumps of the autoinhibited H(+) ATPases (AHA) family, the 13 plasma membrane intrinsic proteins (PIP) water channels (PIPs), and ten members of ammonium transporters (AMTs) and nitrate transporter (NRT) families. Proteotypic peptides were selected and isotopically labeled heavy versions were used for technical optimization and for quantification of the corresponding light version in biological samples. This approach allowed to quantify simultaneously nine PIPs in leaf membranes and 13 PIPs together with three autoinhibited H(+) ATPases, two ammonium transporters, and two NRTs in root membranes. Similarly, it was used to investigate the effect of a salt stress on the expression of these latter 20 transporters in roots. These novel isoform-specific data were compared with published transcriptome information and revealed a close correlation between PIP isoforms and transcripts levels. The obtained resource is reusable and can be expanded to other transporter families for large-scale profiling of membrane transporters.