Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin.

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy.

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Smart PEG-Block-PLA/PLA Nanosystems: Impact of the Characteristics of the Polymer Blend on the Redox Responsiveness.

Nanocarriers (NCs) were designed from three polymer blends (B1, B2 and B3) and investigated as smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). The blends are composed of a "smart" copolymer, where methoxy poly(ethylene glycol) and poly(lactic acid) are connected via a redox-responsive disulfide bond (mPEG-SS-PLA), and of a "conventional" polymer, poly(lactic acid) (PLA). They differ by mPEG-SS-PLA/PLA ratio and PLA molecular weight. Nanoprecipitation was used to prepare NCs. Three concentrations were tested, and fluorescent dye Nile red (NR) was used as a model payload. The results show that the characteristics of the NCs, such as size and drug release kinetics, are influenced by the type of blend and the concentration used during the nanoprecipitation process. The more redox-responsive blend was B2 (ratio 1:3, PLA 5 kDa) at 16 mg/mL: the quantity of NR released was tripled upon 24 h of incubation in a reducing medium. This study reveals that the amount of disulfide bonds present in a NC is not the only parameter to be considered to design an SDDS. The stability of the SDDS in a presumably non-stimulating environment is also important to limit uncontrolled release during storage or in the body before the biological target is reached.

Efficiency of emulsifier-free emulsions in delivering caffeine and α-tocopherol to human skin.

OBJECTIVE: Increasing consumer demand for natural and environmentally friendly products is driving the cosmetic industry to seek greener and safer processes. High-frequency ultrasound technology (HFUT) stabilizes emulsions without adding emulsifying surfactants (ES). In this work, the formulation characteristics of an HFUT-treated emulsion and a Reference emulsion were compared for both caffeine and α-tocopherol. METHODS: A comparison was made between ES-free emulsions and the Reference emulsions based on droplet size, viscosity, pH and rheology behaviour for both active cosmetic ingredients. The permeation of caffeine and the skin retention of α -tocopherol were studied in vitro using Franz diffusion cells on human skin biopsies, considered the gold standard for permeation assays. RESULTS: The formulations developed were stable and showed suitable droplet size distribution. In the case of ES-free emulsions, the average droplet size was inferior to 1.5 µm regardless of the polarity of the active. All formulations presented a shear-thinning pseudoplastic behaviour, an attribute usually desired for cosmetic products. The skin permeation studies showed that in the case of caffeine (model hydrophilic molecule), the ES-free emulsion presented a delivery capacity similar to that of the Reference emulsion. However, for α-tocopherol (highly lipophilic model molecule), differences were observed in the distribution of the active in the stratum corneum with an advantage for the Reference emulsion, probably due to the impact of surfactants on the SC lipids. CONCLUSION: This work demonstrates that HFUT is a reliable tool that is able to prepare stable ES-free emulsions loaded with hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients. Skin permeation studies confirm that the emulsions produced by HFUT promote the delivery of the actives to the human skin. In the case of α-tocopherol, the delivery efficiency was lower than with the Reference emulsion, especially in the SC layers, due to the absence of surfactants. Nevertheless, the ES-free emulsion still represents a good compromise between efficacy and the need for green cosmetics in the market.

OBJECTIF: La demande croissante des consommateurs pour des produits naturels et respectueux de l'environnement encourage l'industrie cosmétique à développer des procédés plus écologiques et plus sûrs. La technologie des ultrasons à haute fréquence (HFUT) permet de stabilizer les émulsions sans ajouter de tensioactifs émulsionnants (ES). Dans ce travail, les caractéristiques d'une émulsion traitée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées. La caféine et l'α-tocophérol ont été utilisés comme actifs modèles. MÉTHODES: Les émulsions sans ES et les émulsions de référence on été comparées en termes de taille des gouttelettes, de viscosité, de pH et de comportement rhéologique pour les deux actifs. La perméation de la caféine et la rétention cutanée de l'α-tocophérol ont été étudiées in vitro sur des biopsies de peau humaine, en utilisant des cellules de diffusion de Franz, le 'gold standard' des tests de perméation. RÉSULTATS: Les formulations développées sont stables et présentent une distribution appropriée de la taille des gouttelettes. La taille moyenne des gouttelettes des émulsions sans ES est inférieure à 1.5 µm, quelle que soit la polarité de l'actif. Toutes les formulations présentent un comportement rhéofluidifiant adapté à un usage cosmétique. Les études de perméation cutanée montrent que l'émulsion sans ES contenant de la caféine (molécule modèle hydrophile) présente une capacité de délivrance similaire à celle de l'émulsion de référence. Dans le cas de l'α-tocophérol (molécule modèle lipophile), des différences ont été observées dans la distribution de l'actif dans le stratum corneum (SC) avec un avantage pour l'émulsion de référence, probablement lié à l'interaction entre les tensioactifs et les lipides du SC. CONCLUSION: Ce travail démontre que le traitement par HFUT permet de préparer des émulsions stables sans ES, quelle que soit la polarité des actifs cosmétiques à véhiculer. Les études de perméation cutanée confirment que les émulsions produites par HFUT permettent la diffusion cutanée des actifs dans la peau humaine. Même si dans le cas de l'α-tocophérol la quantité accumulée était plus faible, l'émulsion traitée par HFUT propose un bon compromis entre efficacité et éco-responsabilité.

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum.

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR-partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400-1500 cm-1) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R2 = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R2 (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.

Monitoring the water content in NADES extracts from spirulina biomass by means of ATR-IR spectroscopy.

Attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy (ATR-IR) coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) was evaluated as a rapid, label free and cost-effective tool to quantify water content in extracts obtained from spirulina wet biomass using a glucose glycerol natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES). NADESs are green, renewable and biodegradable solvents with unique properties outcompeting existing organic solvents, for instance, for plant or biomass extraction. The properties of NADESs depend critically on their water concentration, and therefore, it is essential to develop methods to monitor it, to ensure optimal extraction efficiency and experimental repeatability to achieve a better standardization of extraction protocols. First, Karl Fischer titration was performed on a set of 20 NADES extracts in order to obtain reference water concentrations. Secondly, ATR-IR spectra were collected and subjected to datamining to construct PLSR predictive models. An R2 value of 0.9996, a mean root mean square error of cross validation of 0.136% w/w and a root mean square error of prediction of 0.130% w/w highlight the feasibility and reliability to perform quantitative analysis using ATR-IR. Moreover, the mean relative error percentage achieved, ∼0.5%, confirms the high accuracy of water concentration determination in NADES extracts. This work demonstrates that powerful alternatives are available to provide more environmentally responsible analytical protocols. ATR-IR spectroscopy applied to NADES extracts does not require any sample preparation, reagents or solvents and has minimal requirements for single use consumables. The technique is consistent with current concerns to develop greener chemistry, especially in the field of extraction of natural compounds from plants which currently represents a major focus of interest in both research and industry.

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin.

OBJECTIVE: The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. METHODS: The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. RESULTS: The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%-30% only. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

OBJECTIF: l'industrie cosmétique œuvre à renforcer les revendications plus écologiques et plus sûres des processus pour répondre à la forte demande des clients de produits naturels et plus respectueux de l'environnement. La technologie d'ultrasons à haute fréquence (High-Frequency Ultrasonication Technology, HFUT) est un processus physique permettant de stabiliser les émulsions sans qu'il soit nécessaire d'ajouter des ingrédients supplémentaires, tels que des surfactants émulsifiants, aux formulations. Dans cette étude, les principales caractéristiques de formulation d'une émulsion synthétisée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées, ainsi que la cinétique de perméation de la caféine, utilisée comme ingrédient cosmétique actif modèle, dans les deux types d'émulsion. MÉTHODES: le pH, la taille des gouttelettes, et la viscosité de l'émulsion préparée par HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence ont été déterminés et comparés. La perméation de la caféine de l'émulsion HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence appliquées à la surface de modèles d'épiderme humain reconstruit a été comparée. RÉSULTATS: la formulation sans surfactants émulsifiants préparée par HFUT présentait une taille moyenne de gouttelettes presque 2 fois plus faible et une viscosité plus de 3 fois supérieure comparée à l'émulsion de référence. Malgré ces différences, l'absence de surfactants émulsifiants dans l'émulsion HFUT n'a pas significativement modifié la cinétique de perméation de la caféine dans l'épiderme humain reconstruit. Le flux à l'état d'équilibre de la caféine, le temps de latence et les coefficients de perméabilité différaient de 20 à 30 % uniquement. CONCLUSION: cette étude démontre le potentiel de la technologie HFUT à générer des produits cosmétiques topiques possédant des exigences plus faibles en termes d'ingrédients, sans perte d'efficacité, soutenant la mise en œuvre éventuelle de la technologie dans l'industrie cosmétique.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopic Imaging for Evaluation of Distribution of Nano-Formulated Hydrophobic Active Cosmetic Ingredients in Hydrophilic Films.

Film-forming systems are highly relevant to the topical administration of active ingredients (AI) to the body. Enhanced contact with the skin can increase the efficacy of delivery and penetration during prolonged exposure. However, after the evaporation of volatile solvents to form a thin film, the distribution of the ingredient should remain homogenous in order to ensure the effectiveness of the formula. This is especially critical for the use of hydrophobic molecules that have poor solubility in hydrophilic films. In order to address this concern, hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) of Punica granatum seed oil were prepared as a nanosuspension stabilised by poloxamers (NanoPHE). NanoPHE was then added to a formulation containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as a film forming agent, Glycerol as a plasticiser and an antimicrobial agent, SepicideTM HB. Despite their reliability, reference methods such as high-performance liquid chromatography are increasingly challenged due to the need for consumables and solvents, which is contrary to current concerns about green industry in the cosmetics field. Moreover, such methods fail to provide spatially resolved chemical information. In order to investigate the distribution of ingredients in the dried film, Confocal Raman imaging (CRI) coupled to Non-negatively Constrained Least Squares (NCLS) analysis was used. The reconstructed heat maps from a range of films containing systematically varying PHE concentrations highlighted the changes in spectral contribution from each of the ingredients. First, using NCLS scores it was demonstrated that the distributions of PVA, Glycerol, SepicideTM HB and PHE were homogenous, with respective relative standard deviations (RSD) of 3.33%, 2.48%, 2.72% and 6.27%. Second, the respective relationships between ingredient concentrations in the films and their Raman responses, and the spectral abundance were established. Finally, a model for absolute quantification for PHE was be constructed using the percentage of spectral abundance. The prepared %w/w concentrations regressed against predicted %w/w concentrations, displaying high correlation (R2 = 0.995), while the Root Mean Squared Error (0.0869% w/w PHE) confirmed the precision of the analysis. The mean percent relative error of 3.75% indicates the accuracy to which the concentration in dried films could be determined, further supporting the suitability of CRI for analysis of composite solid film matrix. Ultimately, it was demonstrated that nanoformulation of hydrophobic PHE provides homogenous distribution in PVA based film-forming systems independent of the concentration of NanoPHE used in the formula.

In Situ Water Quantification in Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Using Portable Raman Spectroscopy.

Raman spectroscopy is a label-free, non-destructive, non-invasive analytical tool that provides insight into the molecular composition of samples with minimum or no sample preparation. The increased availability of commercial portable Raman devices presents a potentially easy and convenient analytical solution for day-to-day analysis in laboratories and production lines. However, their performance for highly specific and sensitive analysis applications has not been extensively evaluated. This study performs a direct comparison of such a commercially available, portable Raman system, with a research grade Raman microscope system for the analysis of water content of Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADES). NADES are renewable, biodegradable and easily tunable "green" solvents, outcompeting existing organic solvents for applications in extraction from biomass, biocatalysis, and nanoparticle synthesis. Water content in NADES is, however, a critical parameter, affecting their properties, optimal use and extraction efficiency. In the present study, portable Raman spectroscopy coupled with Partial Least Squares Regression (PLSR) is investigated for rapid determination of water content in NADES samples in situ, i.e., directly in glassware. Three NADES systems, namely Betaine Glycerol (BG), Choline Chloride Glycerol (CCG) and Glucose Glycerol (GG), containing a range of water concentrations between 0% (w/w) and 28.5% (w/w), were studied. The results are directly compared with previously published studies of the same systems, using a research grade Raman microscope. PLSR results demonstrate the reliability of the analysis, surrendering R2 values above 0.99. Root Mean Square Errors Prediction (RMSEP) of 0.6805%, 0.9859% and 1.2907% w/w were found for respectively unknown CCG, BG and GG samples using the portable device compared to 0.4715%, 0.3437% and 0.7409% w/w previously obtained by analysis in quartz cuvettes with a Raman confocal microscope. Despite the relatively higher values of RMSEP observed, the comparison of the percentage of relative errors in the predicted concentration highlights that, overall, the portable device delivers accuracy below 5%. Ultimately, it has been demonstrated that portable Raman spectroscopy enables accurate quantification of water in NADES directly through glass vials without the requirement for sample withdrawal. Such compact instruments provide solvent and consumable free analysis for rapid analysis directly in laboratories and for non-expert users. Portable Raman is a promising approach for high throughput monitoring of water content in NADES that can support the development of new analytical protocols in the field of green chemistry in research and development laboratories but also in the industry as a routine quality control tool.

Comparison of Raman and attenuated total reflectance (ATR) infrared spectroscopy for water quantification in natural deep eutectic solvent.

Natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) are ionic solutions, of great interest for extraction from biomass, biocatalysis, and nanoparticle synthesis. They are easily synthesised and eco-friendly, have low volatility and high dissolution power, and are biodegradable. However, water content in NADES is a critical parameter, affecting their optimal use and extraction efficiency. Vibrational spectroscopic techniques are rapid, label-free, non-destructive, non-invasive, and cost-effective analytical tools that can probe the molecular composition of samples. A direct comparison between a previous study using attenuated total reflectance infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy for water quantification in NADES and the same investigation performed with Raman spectroscopy is presently reported. Three NADES systems, namely betaine-glycerol (BG), choline chloride-glycerol (CCG), and glucose-glycerol (GG), containing a range of water concentrations between 0% (w/w) and 40% (w/w), have been analysed with Raman spectroscopy coupled to partial least squares regression multivariate analysis. The values of root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) obtained from analysis performed on the pre-processed spectra over the full spectral range (150-3750 cm-1) are respectively 0.2966% (w/w), 0.4703% (w/w), and 0.2351% (w/w) for BG, GG, and CCG. While the direct comparison to previous ATR-IR results shows essentially similar outcomes for BG, the RMSECV is 33.14% lower and 65.84% lower for CG and CCG. Furthermore, mean relative errors obtained with Raman spectroscopy, and calculated from a set of samples used as independent samples, were 1.452% (w/w), 1.175% (w/w), and 1.188% (w/w). Ultimately, Raman spectroscopy delivered performances for quantification of water in NADES with similar accuracy to ATR-IR. The present demonstration clearly highlights the potential of Raman spectroscopy to support the development of new analytical protocols in the field of green chemistry.

Polymer-Based Smart Drug Delivery Systems for Skin Application and Demonstration of Stimuli-Responsiveness.

Progress in recent years in the field of stimuli-responsive polymers, whose properties change depending on the intensity of a signal, permitted an increase in smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). SDDS have attracted the attention of the scientific community because they can help meet two current challenges of the pharmaceutical industry: targeted drug delivery and personalized medicine. Controlled release of the active ingredient can be achieved through various stimuli, among which are temperature, pH, redox potential or even enzymes. SDDS, hitherto explored mainly in oncology, are now developed in the fields of dermatology and cosmetics. They are mostly hydrogels or nanosystems, and the most-used stimuli are pH and temperature. This review offers an overview of polymer-based SDDS developed to trigger the release of active ingredients intended to treat skin conditions or pathologies. The methods used to attest to stimuli-responsiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo are discussed.

Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation.

The development and characterization of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) is an active area of R&D. RHE can replace animal tissues in pharmaceutical, toxicological and cosmetic sciences, yielding scientific and ethical advantages. RHEs remain costly, however, due to consumables and time required for their culture and a short shelf-life. Storing, i.e., freezing RHE could help reduce costs but to date, little is known on the effects of freezing on the barrier function of RHE. We studied such effects using commercial EpiSkin™ RHE stored at -20, -80 and -150 °C for 1 and 10 weeks. We acquired intrinsic Raman spectra in the stratum corneum (SC) of the RHEs as well as spectra obtained following topical application of resorcinol in an aqueous solution. In parallel, we quantified the effects of freezing on the permeation kinetics of resorcinol from time-dependent permeation experiments. Principal component analyses discriminated the intrinsic SC spectra and the spectra of resorcinol-containing RHEs, in each case on the basis of the freezing conditions. Permeation of resorcinol through the frozen RHE increased 3- to 6-fold compared to fresh RHE, with the strongest effect obtained from freezing at -20 °C for 10 weeks. Due to the extensive optimization and standardization of EpiSkin™ RHE, the effects observed in our work may be expected to be more pronounced with other RHEs.

Three-Step Synthesis of a Redox-Responsive Blend of PEG-block-PLA and PLA and Application to the Nanoencapsulation of Retinol.

Smart polymeric nanocarriers have been developed to deliver therapeutic agents directly to the intended site of action, with superior efficacy. Herein, a mixture of poly(lactide) (PLA) and redox-responsive poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(lactide) (PEG-block-PLA) containing a disulfide bond was synthesized in three steps. The nanoprecipitation method was used to prepare an aqueous suspension of polymeric nanocarriers with a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Retinol, an anti-aging agent very common in cosmetics, was loaded into these smart nanocarriers as a model to measure their capacity to encapsulate and to protect a lipophilic active molecule. Retinol was encapsulated with a high efficiency with final loading close to 10% w/w. The stimuli-responsive behavior of these nanocarriers was demonstrated in vitro, in the presence of l-Glutathione, susceptible to break of disulfide bond. The toxicity was low on human keratinocytes in vitro and was mainly related to the active molecule. Those results show that it is not necessary to use 100% of smart copolymer in a nanosystem to obtain a triggered release of their content.

Homogeneous distribution of fatty ester-based active cosmetic ingredients in hydrophilic thin films by means of nanodispersion.

OBJECTIVE: Cosmetic films and patches are interesting forms to promote skin penetration of active ingredients as they ensure their long stay on the treated zone of the skin. Nevertheless, currently developed films and patches are most of all hydrophilic and are not adapted to the hydrophobic molecules. The aim of this study was to establish whether nanodispersion of fatty acid-based active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) could be a manner to introduce high concentrations of those ACI in hydrophilic films. METHODS: Punica granatum seed oil hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) constitute a commercialized lipolytic cosmetic ingredient obtained by enzymatic conjugation of tyrosol to long-chain fatty acids and to enhance its skin diffusion. Nanodispersions of PHE were prepared by a green emulsion-solvent evaporation process and dispersed in polyvinyl alcohol films. Raman imaging coupled to multivariate analysis was used to study the distribution of PHE in the films. RESULTS: Nanodispersions of PHE combined with antioxidant vitamin E and stabilized by Pluronic® F127 were successfully prepared. The nanodispersions show a spherical shape and a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Raman images analysis with multivariate approaches showed a very homogeneous distribution of PHE nanodispersions in the films compared to free PHE introduced as an ethanol solution. CONCLUSION: Nanodispersions of hydrophobic fatty acid-based ingredients seem to be relevant method to introduce this type of ingredient in hydrophilic film matrix. The co-suspension with vitamin E limits their degradation in time.

OBJECTIF: Les films et patchs cosmétiques sont des formes intéressantes pour augmenter la pénétration cutanée des actifs cosmétiques car ils assurent une exposition prolongée de la zone de peau traitée ce qui favorise la diffusion. Néanmoins, les films et patchs actuellement développés sont majoritairement de nature hydrophile et ne sont pas adaptés aux molécules hydrophobes. Le but de cette étude est d'établir si la nanodispersion d'actifs cosmétiques à base d'acides gras peut être un moyen d'introduire des concentrations élevées de ces actifs dans des films hydrophiles. MÉTHODES: Les esters hydroxyphénéthyliques de l'huile de graines de grenade Punica granatum (PHE) sont commercialisés comme un agent lipolytique. Cet actif obtenu par conjugaison enzymatique du tyrosol à des acides gras à longue chaîne ce qui favorise sa pénétration cutanée. Des nanodispersions de PHE ont été préparées par un procédé d'émulsion- évaporation développé avec un solvant vert. Ces nanosystèmes sont ensuite dispersées dans des films d'alcool polyvinylique. L'imagerie Raman couplée à une méthode d'analyse statistique multivariée a été utilisée pour étudier la distribution des PHE dans les films. RÉSULTATS: Des nanodispersions de PHE associées à de la vitamine E antioxydante et stabilisées par Pluronic® F127 ont été préparées avec succès. Les nanodispersions présentent une forme sphérique et un diamètre hydrodynamique proche de 100 nm. L'analyse d'images Raman au moyen d'une approche multivariée a montré une distribution très homogène des nanodispersions dans les films par rapport aux PHE libres introduits sous forme de solution éthanolique. CONCLUSION: Les nanodispersions d'ingrédients hydrophobes à base d'acides gras semblent être une méthode pertinente pour introduire ce type d'ingrédient dans la matrice de film hydrophile. L'introduction de vitamine E dans les nanodispersion ralentit leur dégradation.

Raman mapping coupled to self-modelling MCR-ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin.

Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non-destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo-cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) can be applied to detect and semi-quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR-ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers.

Nanovectorized Microalgal Extracts to Fight Candida albicans and Cutibacterium acnes Biofilms: Impact of Dual-Species Conditions.

Biofilm-related infections are a matter of concern especially because of the poor susceptibility of microorganisms to conventional antimicrobial agents. Innovative approaches are needed. The antibiofilm activity of extracts of cyanobacteria Arthrospira platensis, rich in free fatty acids, as well as of extract-loaded copper alginate-based nanocarriers, were studied on single- and dual-species biofilms of Candida albicans and Cutibacterium acnes. Their ability to inhibit the biofilm formation and to eradicate 24 h old biofilms was investigated. Concentrations of each species were evaluated using flow cytometry. Extracts prevented the growth of C. acnes single-species biofilms (inhibition > 75% at 0.2 mg/mL) but failed to inhibit preformed biofilms. Nanovectorised extracts reduced the growth of single-species C. albicans biofilms (inhibition > 43% at 0.2 mg/mL) while free extracts were weakly or not active. Nanovectorised extracts also inhibited preformed C. albicans biofilms by 55% to 77%, whereas the corresponding free extracts were not active. In conclusion, even if the studied nanocarrier systems displayed promising activity, especially against C. albicans, their efficacy against dual-species biofilms was limited. This study highlighted that working in such polymicrobial conditions can give a more objective view of the relevance of antibiofilm strategies by taking into account interspecies interactions that can offer additional protection to microbes.

Quantification of low-content encapsulated active cosmetic ingredients in complex semi-solid formulations by means of attenuated total reflectance-infrared spectroscopy.

Attenuated total reflectance-infrared (ATR-IR) spectroscopy is a robust tool for molecular characterisation of matter. Applied to semi-solid formulations, it enables rapid and reliable data collection without pre-analytical requirements. Based on nano-encapsulated Omegalight®, a skin-lightening active cosmetic ingredient (ACI), incorporated in a hydrogel, it is first demonstrated that, despite the high water content and the chemical complexity of the samples (i.e. number of ingredients), the spectral features of the ACI can be detected and monitored. Secondly, with a total of 105 samples divided into a training set (n = 60) and an unknown set (n = 45) covering a 0.5% w/w-5% w/w concentration range, the study further investigates the quantitative performance of ATR-IR coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR). Through a step-by-step approach in testing different cross-validation protocols, accuracy (root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV)) and linearity between the experimental and predicted concentrations (R2) of ATR-IR are consistently evaluated to be respectively 0.097% (w/w) and 0.995 with a lower LOD = 0.067% (w/w). Subsequently, further evaluation of the accuracy (relative error of the predicted concentration compared with the true value, expressed as %) of the analysis was undertaken with the 45 unknown samples that were defined as unknown and analysed by PLSR. The outcome of the analysis demonstrates the ruggedness and the consistency of the determination performed using the ATR-IR data. With an average relative error of 2.5% w/w and only 5 samples out of 45 blind samples exhibiting a relative error above the 5% threshold, high accuracy quantification of the nano-encapsulated ACI can be unambiguously achieved by means of the label-free and non-destructive technique of ATR-IR spectroscopy. Ultimately, the study demonstrates that the analytical capabilities of ATR-IR hold significant potential for applications in the cosmetics industry, and although the path remains long, the present study is one step further to support validation of the technique, albeit for the specific case of Omegalight®.

gH625 Cell-Penetrating Peptide Promotes the Endosomal Escape of Nanovectorized siRNA in a Triple-Negative Breast Cancer Cell Line.

The use of small interfering RNA (siRNA) to regulate oncogenes appears as a promising strategy in the context of cancer therapy, especially if they are vectorized by a smart delivery system. In this study, we investigated the cellular trafficking of a siRNA nanovector (called CS-MSN) functionalized with the cell-penetrating peptide gH625 in a triple-negative breast cancer model. With complementary techniques, we showed that siRNA nanovectors were internalized by both clathrin- and caveolae-mediated endocytosis. The presence of gH625 at the surface of the siRNA nanovector did not modify the entry pathway of CS-MSN, but it increased the amount of siRNA found inside the cells. Results suggested an escape of siRNA from endosomes, which is enhanced by the presence of the peptide gH625, whereas nanoparticles continued their trafficking into lysosomes. The efficiency of CS-MSN to inhibit the GFP in MDA-MB-231 cells was 1.7-fold higher than that of the nanovectors without gH625.

Formulation and in vitro evaluation of a siRNA delivery nanosystem decorated with gH625 peptide for triple negative breast cancer theranosis.

The development of an efficient small interfering RNA (siRNA) delivery system has held scientists interest since the discovery of the RNA interference mechanism (RNAi). This strategy gives hope for the treatment of many severe diseases. Herein, we developed hybrid nanovectors able to deliver siRNA to triple negative breast cancer cells. The nanovectors are based on PEGylated superparamagnetic iron oxide nanoparticles (SPION) functionalized with gH625 peptide, chitosan and poly-l-arginine. Every component has a key role and specific function: SPION is the core scaffolding the nanovector; PEG participates in the colloidal stability and the immune stealthiness; gH625 peptide promotes the nanovector internalization into cancer cells; cationic polymers provide the siRNA protection and favor siRNA endosomal escape and delivery to cytosol. The formulation was optimized by varying the amount of each compound. The efficacy of the siRNA retention and protection were investigated in the presence of high concentration of serum. Optimized nanovectors show a high uptake by MDA-MB-231 cells. The resulting down regulation of GFP expression was 73 ±â€¯3% with our nanovector compared to 59 ±â€¯8% obtained with the siRNA-Oligofectamine™ complex in the same conditions.