In Vitro Modeling of Skin Barrier Disruption and its Recovery by Ceramide-Based Formulations.

Disrupted skin barrier, one of the severe attributes of inflammatory skin diseases, is caused by lower content and pathological changes of lipids in the uppermost skin layer-stratum corneum (SC). Restoring skin barrier with native skin lipids, especially ceramides (Cers), appears to be a promising therapy with minimum side effects. For testing the efficiency of these formulations, suitable in vitro models of the skin with disrupted barriers are needed. For the similarity with the human tissue, our models were based on the pig ear skin. Three different ways of skin barrier disruption were tested and compared: tape stripping, lipid extraction with organic solvents, and barrier disruption by sodium lauryl sulfate. The level of barrier disruption was investigated by permeation studies, and parameters of each method were modified to reach significant changes between the non-disrupted skin and our model. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to elucidate the changes of the skin permeability on the molecular scale. Further, the potential of the developed models to be restored by skin barrier repairing agents was evaluated by the same techniques. We observed a significant decrease in permeation characteristics through our in vitro models treated with the lipid mixtures compared to the untreated damaged skin, which implied that the skin barrier was substantially restored. Taken together, the results suggest that our in vitro models are suitable for the screening of potential barrier repairing agents.

Acidic pH Is Required for the Multilamellar Assembly of Skin Barrier Lipids In Vitro.

Lipid membrane remodeling belongs to the most fundamental processes in the body. The skin barrier lipids, which are ceramide dominant and highly rigid, must attain an unusual multilamellar nanostructure with long periodicity to restrict water loss and prevent the entry of potentially harmful environmental factors. Our data suggest that the skin acid mantle, apart from regulating enzyme activities and keeping away pathogens, may also be a prerequisite for the multilamellar assembly of the skin barrier lipids. Atomic force microscopy on monolayers composed of synthetic or human stratum corneum lipids showed multilayer formation (approximately 10-nm step height) in an acidic but not in a neutral environment. X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies showed markedly altered lipid nanostructure and increased water loss at neutral pH compared with that at acidic pH. These findings are consistent with the data on the altered organization of skin lipids and increased transepidermal water loss under conditions such as inadequate skin acidification, for example, in neonates, the elderly, and patients with atopic dermatitis.

Gentiana lutea Extract Modulates Ceramide Synthesis in Primary and Psoriasis-Like Keratinocytes.

Gentiana lutea is a bitter herb that is traditionally used to improve gastric disorders. Recently, we have shown that Gentiana lutea extract (GE) also modulates the lipid metabolism of human keratinocytes in vitro and in vivo. In the present study, we investigated the role of GE on ceramide synthesis in human primary keratinocytes (HPKs) and psoriasis-like keratinocytes. We could demonstrate that GE increased the concentrations of glucosylceramides and the ceramide AS/AdS subclass without affecting the overall ceramide content in HPKs. The expression of ceramide synthase 3 (CERS3) and elongases (ELOVL1 and 4) was reduced in psoriasis lesions compared to healthy skin. Psoriasis-like HPKs, generated by stimulating HPKs with cytokines that are involved in the pathogenesis of psoriasis (IL-17, TNF-α, IL-22 and IFN-γ) showed increased levels of IL-6, IL-8 and increased expression of DEFB4A, as well as decreased expression of ELOVL4. The treatment with GE partly rescued the reduced expression of ELOVL4 in psoriasis-like HPKs and augmented CERS3 expression. This study has shown that GE modulates ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Therefore, GE might be a novel topical treatment for skin diseases with an altered lipid composition such as psoriasis.

Impact of intercellular crosstalk between epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts on skin homeostasis.

Dermal fibroblasts seem critical for epidermal maturation and differentiation and recent work demonstrated that diseased fibroblasts may drive pathophysiological processes. Nevertheless, still very little is known about the actual crosstalk between epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts and the impact of dermal fibroblasts on epidermal maturation and differentiation. Aiming for a more fundamental understanding of the impact of the cellular crosstalk between keratinocytes and fibroblasts on the skin homeostasis, we generated full-thickness skin equivalents with and without fibroblasts and subsequently analysed them for the expression of skin differentiation markers, their barrier function, skin lipid content and epidermal cell signalling. Skin equivalents without fibroblasts consistently showed an impaired differentiation and dysregulated expression of skin barrier and tight junction proteins, increased skin permeability, and a decreased skin lipid/protein ratio. Most interestingly, impaired Ras/Raf/ERK/MEK signalling was evident in skin equivalents without fibroblasts. Our data clearly indicate that the epidermal-dermal crosstalk between keratinocytes and fibroblasts is critical for adequate skin differentiation and that fibroblasts orchestrate epidermal differentiation processes.

Investigation of TEMPO partitioning in different skin models as measured by EPR spectroscopy - Insight into the stratum corneum.

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy represents an established tool to study properties of microenvironments, e.g. to investigate the structure and dynamics of biological and artificial membranes. In this study, the partitioning of the spin probe 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) in ex vivo human abdominal and breast skin, ex vivo porcine abdominal and ear skin as well as normal and inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents was investigated by EPR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition (as determined by high-performance thin-layer chromatography), SC lipid chain order (probed by infrared spectroscopy) and the SC thickness (investigated by histology) were determined in the skin models. X-band EPR measurements have shown that TEMPO partitions in the lipophilic and hydrophilic microenvironment in varying ratios in different ex vivo and in vitro skin models. Ex vivo human abdominal skin exhibited the highest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment. In contrast, the lowest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was determined in ex vivo human breast skin and the inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents. Individual EPR spectra of epidermis including SC and dermis indicated that the lipophilic microenvironment of TEMPO mainly corresponds to the most lipophilic part of the epidermis, the SC. The amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was independent of the SC lipid composition and the SC lipid chain order but correlated with the SC thickness. In conclusion, EPR spectroscopy could be a novel technique to determine differences in the SC thickness, thus suitably complementing existing methods.

Esters of terpene alcohols as highly potent, reversible, and low toxic skin penetration enhancers.

Skin penetration/permeation enhancers are compounds that improve (trans)dermal drug delivery. We designed hybrid terpene-amino acid enhancers by conjugating natural terpenes (citronellol, geraniol, nerol, farnesol, linalool, perillyl alcohol, menthol, borneol, carveol) or cinnamyl alcohol with 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoic acid through a biodegradable ester linker. The compounds were screened for their ability to increase the delivery of theophylline and hydrocortisone through and into human skin ex vivo. The citronellyl, bornyl and cinnamyl esters showed exceptional permeation-enhancing properties (enhancement ratios up to 82) while having low cellular toxicities. The barrier function of enhancer-treated skin (assessed by transepidermal water loss and electrical impedance) recovered within 24 h. Infrared spectroscopy suggested that these esters fluidized the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore, the citronellyl ester increased the epidermal concentration of topically applied cidofovir, which is a potent antiviral and anticancer drug, by 15-fold. In conclusion, citronellyl 6-(dimethylamino)hexanoate is an outstanding enhancer with an advantageous combination of properties, which may improve the delivery of drugs that have a limited ability to cross biological barriers.