Mont Blanc with oxygen: the first rotters.

After a brief outline of some early theories about the effects of thin air, the attempt of Joseph Ch. Hamel on Mont Blanc in 1820 is described. The Russian physician had postulated that lack of oxygen was responsible for muscular weakness at altitude and therefore had planned to study the oxygen content of air and blood on the summit and to administer oxygen to see if it improved performance. During the ascent he observed "pneumatic flatulence," shortness of breath, and fatigue. Shortly before the summit, an avalanche, which killed three of his guides, stopped and terminated the expedition. Although Hamel may have lacked the necessary equipment, he was among the first to try to test his hypothesis on altitude effects by experiments.

[Recognizing the situation (1): a plea for an open debate about rationing]. / Erkenne die Lage [1]: Plädoyer für eine offene Rationierungsdiskussion.

The rise in health costs is due to the tremendous advances in medical science and other causes, such as a system offering a unique financial stimulus for health professionals to provide more services, non-functioning competition, patients' demand for every possible form of treatment as rapidly as possible, a compliant political community and also new players such as consultants, the ethics industry, lawyers and nursing academics. On the other hand, the public is not willing to pay more in taxes and health insurance premiums. The resultant dilemma sooner or later forces restrictions on health care which can be called either optimisation, rationalisation or rationing.

Urinary leukotriene E(4) levels are not increased prior to high-altitude pulmonary edema.

STUDY OBJECTIVE: To examine whether increased urinary cysteinyl-leukotriene E(4) (LTE(4)) excretion, which has been found to be elevated in patients presenting with high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), precedes edema formation. DESIGN: Prospective studies in a total of 12 subjects with susceptibility to HAPE. SETTING: In a chamber study, seven subjects susceptible to HAPE and five nonsusceptible control subjects were exposed for 24 h to an altitude of 450 m (control day), and exposed for 20 h to 4,000 m after slow decompression over 4 h. In a field study, prospective measurements at low and high altitude were performed in five subjects developing HAPE at 4,559 m. PARTICIPANTS: Mountaineers with a radiographically documented history of HAPE and control subjects who did not develop HAPE with identical high-altitude exposure. INTERVENTIONS: 24-h urine collections. MEASUREMENTS AND RESULTS: In the hypobaric chamber, none of the subjects developed HAPE. The 24-h urinary LTE(4) did not differ between HAPE susceptible and control subjects, nor between hypoxia and normoxic control day. In the field study, urinary LTE(4) was not increased in subjects with HAPE compared to values obtained prior to HAPE at high altitude and during 2 control days at low altitude. CONCLUSIONS: These data do not provide evidence that cysteinyl-leukotriene-mediated inflammatory response is associated with HAPE susceptibility or the development of HAPE within the context of our studies.

Effects of hypobaric hypoxia on vascular endothelial growth factor and the acute phase response in subjects who are susceptible to high-altitude pulmonary oedema.

In order to investigate whether vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and inflammatory pathways are activated during acute hypobaric hypoxia in subjects who are susceptible to high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE-S), seven HAPE-S and five control subjects were exposed to simulated altitude corresponding to 4000 m in a hypobaric chamber for 1 day. Peripheral venous blood was taken at 450 m (Zürich level) and at 4000 m, and levels of erythropoietin (EPO), VEGF, interleukin-6 (IL-6) and the acute-phase proteins complement C3 (C3), alpha1-antitrypsin (alpha1AT), transferrin (Tf) and C-reactive protein (CRP) were measured. Peripheral arterial oxygen saturation (SaO2) was recorded. Chest radiography was performed before and immediately after the experiment. EPO increased during altitude exposure, correlating with SaO2, in both groups (r = -0.86, P < 0.001). Venous serum VEGF did not show any elevation despite a marked decrease in SaO2 in the HAPE-S subjects [mean (SD) HAPE-S: 69.6 (9.1)%; controls: 78.7 (5.2)%]. C3 and alpha1AT levels increased in HAPE-S during hypobaric hypoxia [from 0.94 (0.11) g/l to 1.07 (0.13) g/l, and from 1.16 (0.08) g/l to 1.49 (0.27) g/l, respectively; P < 0.05], but remained within the clinical reference ranges. No significant elevations of IL-6, Tf or CRP were observed in either group. The post-exposure chest radiography revealed no signs of oedema. We conclude that VEGF is not up-regulated in HAPE-S and thus does not seem to increase critically pulmonary vascular permeability during the 1st day at high altitude. Furthermore, our data provide evidence against a clinically relevant inflammation in the initial phase of exposure to hypoxia in HAPE-S, although C3 and alpha1AT are mildly induced.

Myeloma and severe cholestasis.

Amyloidosis is a frequent complication of multiple myeloma. Liver involvement is common in amyloidosis. Hepatic dysfunction and liver chemistry abnormalities are often mild or absent and obstructive jaundice is rare. We report on a 44-year-old patient with multiple myeloma and rapidly deteriorating liver involvement with severe intrahepatic cholestasis. Autopsy showed widespread amyloidosis primarily involving the liver. This unusual cholestatic manifestation of hepatic amyloidosis has an uniformly poor prognosis, with death occurring within a few months. We discuss the clinical and pathologic aspects.

Acute mountain sickness is not related to cerebral blood flow: a decompression chamber study.

To evaluate the pathogenetic role of cerebral blood flow (CBF) changes occurring before and during the development of acute mountain sickness (AMS), peak mean middle cerebral artery flow velocities () were assessed by transcranial Doppler sonography in 10 subjects at 490-m altitude, and during three 12-min periods immediately (SA1), 3 (SA2), and 6 (SA3) h after decompression to a simulated altitude of 4,559 m. AMS cerebral scores increased from 0. 16 +/- 0.14 at baseline to 0.44 +/- 0.31 at SA1, 1.11 +/- 0.88 at SA2 (P < 0.05), and 1.43 +/- 1.03 at SA3 (P < 0.01); correspondingly, three, seven, and eight subjects had AMS. Absolute and relative at simulated altitude, expressed as percentages of low-altitude values (%), did not correlate with AMS cerebral scores. Average % remained unchanged, because % increased in three and remained unchanged or decreased in seven subjects at SA2 and SA3. These results suggest that CBF is not important in the pathogenesis of AMS and shows substantial interindividual differences during the first hours at simulated altitude.

Hallucinatory experiences in extreme-altitude climbers.

OBJECTIVE: This study attempted a systematic investigation of incidence, type, and circumstances of anomalous perceptual experiences in a highly specialized group of healthy subjects, extreme-altitude climbers. BACKGROUND: There is anecdotal evidence for a high incidence of anomalous perceptual experiences during mountain climbing at high altitudes. METHOD: In a structured interview, we asked eight world-class climbers, each of whom has reached altitudes above 8500 m without supplementary oxygen, about hallucinatory experiences during mountain climbing at various altitudes. A comprehensive neuropsychological, electroencephalographic, and magnetic resonance imaging evaluation was performed within a week of the interview (8). RESULTS: All but one subject reported somesthetic illusions (distortions of body scheme) as well as visual and auditory pseudohallucinations (in this order of frequency of occurrence). A disproportionately large number of experiences above 6000 m as compared to below 6000 m were reported (relative to the total time spent at these different altitudes). Solo climbing and (in the case of somesthetic illusions) life-threatening danger were identified as probable triggers for anomalous perceptual experiences. No relationship between the number of reported experiences and neuropsychological impairment was found. Abnormalities in electroencephalographic (3 climbers) and magnetic resonance imaging (2 climbers) findings were likewise unrelated to the frequency of reported hallucinatory experiences. CONCLUSIONS: The results confirm earlier anecdotal evidence for a considerable incidence of hallucinatory experiences during climbing at high altitudes. Apart from hypoxia, social deprivation and acute stress seem to play a role in the genesis of these experiences.

Assessment of acute mountain sickness by different score protocols in the Swiss Alps.

INTRODUCTION: Purpose of the present study was to evaluate the Lake Louise acute mountain sickness (AMS) score questionnaire at different altitudes and to compare it with the currently used clinical score and the environmental symptoms questionnaire AMS-C score. METHODS: We investigated 490 climbers who stayed over night at 4 huts in the Swiss Alps, located at the altitudes of 2850 m, 3050 m, 3650 m, and 4559 m. AMS was assessed using our previously described clinical score, the Lake Louise consensus AMS score questionnaire and the environmental symptoms questionnaire III. RESULTS: Below 4000 m, the prevalence of AMS, defined by symptoms that force a reduction in activity, was 7%; when assessed with the clinical score (score > or = 3) it was 22%; with the AMS-C score (score > or = 0.7) 4% and with the Lake Louise score (score > 4) 8%. At the altitude of 4559 m, the prevalence of AMS was 30%, 38%, 40%, and 39%, respectively. The standardized regression coefficients from multiple regression analysis (adjusted R2 0.65, p < 0.001) were 0.45 (p < 0.001) for the self-reported Lake Louise score, 0.48 (p < 0.001) for the sum of the points assigned in the clinical section of the Lake Louise questionnaire, and 0.05 (p = 0.27) for the AMS-C score. The sensitivity and specificity of the Lake Louise score > 4 was 78% and 93%, respectively. CONCLUSIONS: The Lake Louise consensus score is adequate and, compared with the AMS-C score, more effective for the assessment of acute altitude illness at different altitudes.

[Stress as cardiovascular risk factor]. / Stress als kardiovaskulärer Risikofaktor.

With appropriate assessment, stress has been shown to be an important variable for the development and course of cardiovascular diseases. Elements of stress include life events, inadequate coping strategies, deficient social support and a combination of heavy demands/ low rewards at work as well as in other situations. Dealing with stress therefore is important in cardiac rehabilitation and secondary prevention, as well as in the primary prevention of cardiovascular disease. The issue was discussed controversially at a workshop at the Annual meeting of the Swiss Society of Cardiology in 1996. The opposing views are presented.

Nocturnal periodic breathing and the development of acute high altitude illness.

We tested the hypothesis that periodic breathing (PB) at high altitude is more frequent and arterial oxygen desaturation more severe during sleep in subjects developing high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or acute mountain sickness (AMS) compared with subjects remaining healthy. We registered thoraco-abdominal movement, electro-encephalogram and oxygen saturation by pulse oximeter (pSao2) in 21 subjects during the first night spent at the altitude of 4,559 m. During the subsequent stay at 4,559 m, eight subjects remained well (controls), five subjects developed AMS and eight subjects developed HAPE. PB was found in all sleep stages and the percentage PB in any sleep stage was not significantly different between groups. There was a trend towards more PB in the HAPE vs. AMS and control group lasting 80 +/- 5 (mean +/- SE), 58 +/- 7, 57 +/- 9% of analyzable time, respectively (p = 0.09). The mean nocturnal decrease of pSao2 for these groups was 8.7 +/- 1.9, 5.4 +/- 2.1, 4.8 +/- 1.2%; (p = 0.36) and the median nocturnal pSao2 was 49 +/- 3, 63 +/- 3, and 63 +/- 4% (p = 0.02). Arterial blood gas analysis before and after sleep recordings indicate that the significantly lower Sao2 in the HAPE group is secondary to gas exchange rather than ventilation. The nocturnal decrease of pSao2 did not correlate with the time of PB nor the number of desaturation events > or = 4%. These findings suggest that more frequent PB in the HAPE group is a consequence of lower Sao2 due to impairment of gas exchange.

[Truth disclosure in physicians' dialogue: compassionate lie or merciless statistics?]. / Wahrheitsvermittlung im ärztlichen Gespräch: barmherzige Lüge oder erbarmungslose Statistik?

Breaking bad news is one of the most important and most difficult tasks of a physician. The training for this dialogue should be intensified during the medical curriculum. Physicians of the town of Zurich in general inform their patients truthfully about the seriousnessy of their illness. The prognosis of a patient is revealed in a careful way with a wide range of options. In the northern countries of Europe the truth in medical diagnosis and prognosis is revealed in a straight way, whereas in the south and the southeast the truth is generally hidden from the patient. A few simple rules are given for the initial and the subsequent dialogues between the physician and a patient with an incurable disease.

Simulated descent v dexamethasone in treatment of acute mountain sickness: a randomised trial.

OBJECTIVE: Evaluation and comparison of the therapeutic efficacy of a portable hyperbaric chamber and dexamethasone in the treatment of acute mountain sickness. DESIGN: Randomised trial during the summer mountaineering season. SETTING: High altitude research laboratory in the Capanna Regina Margherita at 4559m above sea level (Alps Valais). SUBJECTS: 31 climbers with symptoms of acute mountain sickness randomly assigned to different treatments. INTERVENTIONS: One hour of treatment in the hyperbaric chamber at a pressure of 193 mbar or oral administration of 8 mg dexamethasone initially, followed by 4 mg after 6 hours. MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: Symptoms of acute mountain sickness (Lake Louise score, clinical score, and AMS-C score) before one and about 11 hours after beginning the different methods of treatment. Permitted intake of mild analgesics before treatment and in the follow up period. RESULTS: After one hour of treatment compression with 193 mbar caused a significantly greater relief of symptoms of acute mountain sickness than dexamethasone (Lake Louise score: mean (SD) -4.6 (1.9) v -2.5 (1.8); clinical score: -4.0 (1.2) v -1.5 (1.4); AMS-C score: -1.24 (0.51) v -0.54 (0.59)). In contrast after about 11 hours subjects treated with dexamethasone suffered from significantly less severe acute mountain sickness than subjects treated with the hyperbaric chamber (-7.0 (3.6) v -1.6 (3.0); -4.1 (1.9) v -1.0 (1.5); -1.78 (0.73) v -0.75 (0.82) respectively). Intake of analgesics was similar in both groups. CONCLUSION: Both methods were efficient in treatment of acute mountain sickness. One hour of compression with 193 mbar in the hyperbaric chamber, corresponding to a descent of 2250 m, led to short term improvement but had no long term beneficial effect. On the other hand, treatment with dexamethasone in an oral dose of 8 mg initially followed by 4 mg every 6 hours resulted in a longer term clinical improvement. For optimal efficacy the two methods should be combined if descent or evacuation is not possible.