Photophysicochemical characterization of mycosporine-like amino acids in micellar solutions.

The properties and photochemical and photophysical behavior of the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) shinorine and porphyra-334 were experimentally evaluated in solutions of direct ionic micelles as simple biomimicking environments. The preferential partition of the natural molecules in the aqueous phase of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) micellar systems is confirmed. Although the proton dissociation of the carboxylic groups in the MAAs is slightly inhibited in CTAC solutions, the molecules are predicted to be in the form of zwitterions in all the explored media around physiological pH. The increase in the fluorescence quantum yield, emission lifetime and stationary anisotropy in the presence of CTAC micelles suggest electrostatic attractions of the MAAs with the surface of the cationic micelles. Consistently, the triplet-triplet absorption spectra in CTAC solutions reveal the typical environmental features of the micellar interface, while in the presence of SDS they are similar to those determined in neat water. Finally, the photostability of the MAAs increases in the micellar systems, more noticeably in the case of CTAC. It is concluded that the ability of the two MAAs to act as UV screens is susceptible to the influence of electrostatic interactions with organized microheterogeneous environments.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy: In vivo biochemical changes in the human skin by topical formulations under UV radiation.

A new approach to the study of the effects on human skin of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and gadusol (Gad) incorporated in polymer gel is proposed in this work. The depth profile and photoprotector effects of Pluronic F127® gels containing each of the natural actives were evaluated by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy aiming at the analysis of the biochemical changes on human skin. Hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA) showed that the data corresponding to different depths of the skin, from surface to 4 µm, and from 6 to 16 µm, remained in the same cluster. In vivo Raman spectra, classified into five different layers of epidermis according to their similarities, indicated that the amount of Gad gel increased by about 26% in the outermost layer of the stratum corneum (SC) and that MAAs gel at 2 µm depth was 103.4% higher than in the outermost layer of the SC. Variations in the SC of urocanic acid at 1490-1515 cm(-1) and 1652 cm(-1) and histidine at 1318 cm(-1) were calculated, before and after UV exposure with or without gels. With the application of gels the vibrational modes that correspond to lipids in trans conformation (1063 and 1128 cm(-1)) increased with respect to normal skin, whereas gauche conformation (1085 cm(-1)) disappeared. Our studies suggest that gels protected the skin against the stress of the natural defense mechanism caused by high levels of UV exposure.