Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety.

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains as bioindicators for titanium dioxide sunscreen photoprotective and photomutagenic assessment.

Although several short-term assays are available for cosmetic photosafety assessment, cell models are usually highly sensitive to UV radiation, tending to overestimate both phototoxic and photomutagenic risks. In addition, these assays are performed with UV doses/fluences that do not correspond to actual environmental conditions. In this sense, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has already proved to be an interesting tool to predict photomutagenic potential of several compounds, including sunscreens. Yeast can support environmental UVB doses compatible with human daily sunlight exposure, allowing the use of irradiation sources to faithfully mimic the external conditions of ambient sunlight. Herein, we used a set of S. cerevisiae mutant strains sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light sources in order to evaluate their potential as bioindicators for sunscreen development. The bioindicator potential of the strains was tested with the widely-used titanium dioxide inorganic sunscreen. The AWP001 (yno1) and LPW002 (ogg1yno1) strains obtained in this study stood out as promising experimental tools for the validation of this assay. Overall, our results evidenced a set of S. cerevisiae strains particularly useful for evaluating both photoprotective (efficacy) and photo/antiphotomutagenic (safety) potential of UV filters, meeting the industries and regulatory agencies demand for robust and efficient in vitro screening tests.

Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens.

Olive leaves contain higher amount of polyphenols than olive oil and represent a waste product from olive harvest and pruning of olive trees. The most abundant compound in olive leaves is oleuropein. Benefits of the topical application of olive leaves extract were previously reported, but little information is available on its photoprotective potential and the result of the association of this extract with organic UV filters in topical sunscreen formulations. The olive leaves extract photoprotective potential is less explored for both oral and topical photoprotection in comparison with other plants extracts and polyphenols, such as Polypodium leucotomos extract and resveratrol. There are increasing efforts towards developing more efficient sunscreens and a photoprotection assessement along with a better understanding of the photochemistry of naturally occurring sunscreens could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations. This study was designed to investigate the photoprotective potential of olive leaves extract standardized for oleuropein performing a set of in vitro and in silico tools as an innovative approach, highlighting yeast assays, in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and molecular modelling studies of UV absorption. This study supports the use of olive leaves extract for photoprotection, as an effective photoprotective, anti-mutagenic and antioxidant active, also showing a synergistic effect in association with UV filters with an improvement on in vitro SPF of sunscreen formulations.

Titanium dioxide-montmorillonite nanocomposite as photoprotective agent against ultraviolet B radiation-induced mutagenesis in Saccharomyces cerevisiae: a potential candidate for safer sunscreens.

Photoprotective potential and biological consequences (mutagenic potential) of octyl-dimethyl-PABA (ODP), titanium dioxide (TiO2 ), and montmorillonite (MMT) upon ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation, alone and in different associations [physical mixtures (PMs)], were evaluated using a Saccharomyces cerevisiae ogg1 mutant (deficient) strain. In addition, we developed and characterized a delaminated TiO2-pillared MMT, called the TiO2 -MMT nanocomposite (NC), which was also investigated in terms of its photoprotective and mutagenic potential. Overall, our results revealed an interesting TiO2 -MMT NC endowed with antimutagenic activity that can be associated to organic sunscreen molecule (ODP) and still maintain its positive effect, whereas its respective PM is unable to grant antimutagenic protection against UVB.