Phenolic Compounds Extracted from Cherry Tree (Prunus avium) Branches: Impact of the Process on Cosmetic Properties.

Cherry tree branches (Prunus avium var burlat Rosaceae) are agricultural by-products that are often neglected, yet they are rich in phenolic compounds and highly appreciated for their numerous biological activities. Extracts of cherry tree branches were evaluated for their use in cosmetics, particularly for their antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antimicrobial activities. Samples were obtained by accelerated solvent extraction (ASE) at different ethanol percentages and different temperatures. Fourteen phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts by mass spectrometry. Three major compounds were identified (catechin, genistin, and prunin) representing 84 wt% of the total phenolic compounds. Optimal operating conditions maximizing the content of phenolic compounds were determined using a one factor at a time (OFAT) approach (70% aqueous ethanol, 70 °C). The extract obtained under these conditions also showed the highest antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities, certainly due to a high catechin content. Although the antimicrobial activities of extracts are less versatile than those of synthetic molecules, they are nonetheless interesting. According to these results, the extracts of cherry tree branches could be used in cosmetics for their interesting properties.

Synthesis of Biobased Phloretin Analogues: An Access to Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Compounds for Cosmetic Applications.

The current cosmetic and nutraceutical markets are characterized by a strong consumer demand for a return to natural products that are less harmful to both the consumers and the environment than current petrosourced products. Phloretin, a natural dihydrochalcone (DHC) found in apple, has been widely studied for many years and identified as a strong antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Its low concentration in apples does not allow it to be obtained by direct extraction from biomass in large quantities to meet market volumes and prices. Moreover, its remarkable structure prevents its synthesis through a green process. To overcome these issues, the synthesis of phloretin analogs appears as an alternative to access valuable compounds that are potentially more active than phloretin itself. Under such considerations, 12 chalcones (CHs) and 12 dihydrochalcones (DHCs) were synthesized through a green Claisen-Schmidt condensation using bio-based reagents. In order to evaluate the potential of these molecules, radical scavenging DPPH and anti-tyrosinase tests have been conducted. Moreover, the UV filtering properties and the stability of these analogs towards UV-radiations have been evaluated. Some molecules showed competitive antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities regarding phloretin. Two compounds in particular showed EC50 lower than phloretin, one chalcone and one dihydrochalcone.

New Generation UV-A Filters: Understanding Their Photodynamics on a Human Skin Mimic.

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S1), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S0). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck-Condon region toward an S1/S0 conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S0 and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Towards developing novel and sustainable molecular light-to-heat converters.

Light-to-heat conversion materials generate great interest due to their widespread applications, notable exemplars being solar energy harvesting and photoprotection. Another more recently identified potential application for such materials is in molecular heaters for agriculture, whose function is to protect crops from extreme cold weather and extend both the growing season and the geographic areas capable of supporting growth, all of which could help reduce food security challenges. To address this demand, a new series of phenolic-based barbituric absorbers of ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been designed and synthesised in a sustainable manner. The photophysics of these molecules has been studied in solution using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies, allied with computational simulations and their potential toxicity assessed by in silico studies. Following photoexcitation to the lowest singlet excited state, these barbituric absorbers repopulate the electronic ground state with high fidelity on an ultrafast time scale (within a few picoseconds). The energy relaxation pathway includes a twisted intramolecular charge-transfer state as the system evolves out of the Franck-Condon region, internal conversion to the ground electronic state, and subsequent vibrational cooling. These barbituric absorbers display promising light-to-heat conversion capabilities, are predicted to be non-toxic, and demand further study within neighbouring application-based fields.

Sinapic Acid Esters: Octinoxate Substitutes Combining Suitable UV Protection and Antioxidant Activity.

In 2021, Hawaii will permanently ban the use and sale of octinoxate-based sunscreens as studies have shown serious impacts of such UV filters on the coral reef. This ban, which could be generalized to other countries, highlights the extreme need to offer alternative UV filters that are not only effective in terms of sun protection, but also healthy with regards to human health and the environment. In this context, a wide library of p-hydroxycinnamic esters deriving from naturally occurring sinapic acid has been synthesized using a Knoevenagel-Doebner condensation. The UV filtering activities as well as the antioxidant properties of these sinapic acid esters were then investigated. The results showed promising UVB protection and antioxidant efficacy. A Structure-Activity Relationship (SAR) study on the sinapic acid esters highlighted the need of a free phenol to, as expected, observe antioxidant activity, but also to obtain a higher intensity of protection. Moreover, the nature of the ester moiety also proved to be a key structural feature for the UV absorbance, as higher steric hindrance on the ester moiety leads to more active compounds. The judicious structural design of sinapic esters thus provides promising compounds combining UV protection and antioxidant activity.

Innovative Bio-Based Organic UV-A and Blue Light Filters from Meldrum's Acid.

Faced with the ban of some organic UV filters such as octinoxate or avobenzone, especially in Hawaii, it became essential to offer new alternatives that are both renewable and safe for humans and the environment. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules displaying interesting UV filter properties and great (photo)stability has been developed from Meldrum's acid and bio-based and synthetic p-hydroxycinnamic acids, furans and pyrroles. Moreover, p-hydroxycinnamic acid-based Meldrum's derivatives possess valuable secondary activities sought by the cosmetic industry such as antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties. The evaluation of the properties of mixture of judiciously chosen Meldrum's acid derivatives highlighted the possibility to modulate secondary activity while maintaining excellent UV protection. Meldrum's acid derivatives are not only competitive when benchmarked against organic filters currently on the market (i.e., avobenzone), but they also do not exhibit any endocrine disruption activity.

Sustainable Synthesis of p-Hydroxycinnamic Diacids through Proline-Mediated Knoevenagel Condensation in Ethanol: An Access to Potent Phenolic UV Filters and Radical Scavengers.

p-Hydroxycinnamic diacids are reaction intermediates of the classical Knoevenagel-Doebner condensation between malonic acid and benzaldehydes. As they are generally obtained in low yields, they remain relatively under-studied and under-exploited. Herein, we developed and optimized a sustainable synthetic procedure allowing the production of these compounds in good to high yields (60-80%) using proline as the catalyst and ethanol as the solvent. Study of their antioxidant and anti-UV activities revealed that these p-hydroxycinnamic diacids were not only potent radical scavengers but also efficient UV filters exhibiting high photostability.