Forgotten Perfumery Plants - Part II: New Insights into the Development of Novel Fragrant Ingredients - Hawthorn Case Study.

Naturalness is gaining ground among perfumers and the use of natural raw materials is spreading in perfumery. Forgotten perfumery plants are of concern to develop innovative and natural ingredients for modern perfume industries. The main purpose of this study was to evaluate the potential interest of Crataegus monogyna Jacq. extracts as fragrance ingredient. To this end, various extractions, phytochemical characterizations and organoleptic evaluations of hawthorn were conducted on fresh, frozen, and dried flowering aerial parts, to identify those most likely to be of interest. More than a hundred compounds, anisaldehyde being the predominant one, were characterized for the first time in the volatile fraction, using HS-SPME-GC-MS technology. Impact of plant treatment and harvest year on the extracts were also discussed. From this work, a new and natural hawthorn-based ingredient was developed to complete the perfumers' palette.

Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier.

Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envelope, S100 protein family). The biological activities of HIEO and neryl acetate (NA) were compared to identify how NA contributes to HIEO activity on human skin. NA, as a part component of HIEO, was tested on skin explant models for 24 hours and 5 days in comparison with HIEO. We analyzed the biological regulations in the skin explant by transcriptomic analysis, skin barrier protein immunofluorescence, lipid staining and ceramide analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Transcriptomic analysis revealed that 41.5% of HIEO-modulated genes were also regulated by NA and a selected panel of genes were confirmed by qquantitative reverse transcription PCR analysis. Those genes are involved in epidermal differentiation, skin barrier formation and ceramide synthesis. Involucrin (IVL), involved in formation of the cornified envelope (CE), was upregulated at both gene and protein levels after 24 hours and 5 days respectively. After 5 days of treatment, total lipids and ceramides were also increased. Our results demonstrate that NA mediates a large part of Corsican HIEO activity on skin barrier formation.

Modulation of transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) in reconstructed human epidermis by excipients known to permeate intestinal tight junctions.

Several excipients are commonly used to enhance the drug absorption through simple epithelia of the digestive tract. They permeate the paracellular barrier constituted by tight junctions (TJs). We compared the effects of two excipients, sodium caprate (C10) and a self-emulsifying excipient Labrasol composed of a mixture of caprylocaproyl polyoxyl-8 glycerides, both applied to emerged reconstructed human epidermis either 'systemically', that is by addition to the culture medium, or topically. During the 'systemic' application, which produced cytoplasmic translocation of occludin and leakage of the biotin marker into the lower stratum corneum, the decrease in the trans-epithelial electrical resistance (TEER) was less abrupt with Labrasol when compared with C10, even though both excipients produced comparable final effects over time. With topical Labrasol, a significant TEER decrease was obtained with 5 times the 'systemic' concentrations. Topical application of C10 also resulted in the loss of the barrier function measured with TEER but had dramatic deleterious effects on the tissue morphology observed with light and electron microscopy. Our study demonstrates the potential value of Labrasol as an enhancer of bioavailability of molecules applied through the transcutaneous route. Our results suggest modulation of the epidermal TJs by both compounds. Even though the C10 action was at least partly due to overall cell damage and despite the fact that the decrease in TEER after topical application was apparently related to the permeabilization of the primary barrier of the stratum corneum in the first place.

Compartmentalization of the human stratum corneum by persistent tight junction-like structures.

Several tight junction (TJ) proteins were detected in the living layers of adult human epidermis, and TJ-like membrane ridges were observed at the top of the stratum granulosum (SG) in freeze-fracture studies. We applied standard and immunoelectron microscopy to look for TJ-derived structures in the stratum corneum (SC) of human adult epidermis and in cornified envelopes purified from the plantar SC. Besides confirming claudin-1 labelling in the proximity of SG desmosomes, we also observed immunolocalization near corneodesmosomes in the lower SC. In addition, TJ proteins were consistently detected in the purified cornified envelopes. Lateral but not horizontal walls of the corneocytes showed frequent points of molecular fusion between lipid envelopes. These structural associations were very frequently localized at the top of the lateral corneocyte membranes, thus sealing the extremities of lateral intercorneocyte spaces. We propose that TJ-like structures persist in the SC and contribute to the reinforcement of lateral contacts and to the formation of membrane interdigitations between corneocytes. Their presence could contribute to subdivision of the extracellular spaces of SC into consecutive individualized compartments. Intercellular lipids, enzymes and other (glyco)protein content could thus evolve in the keratinized epidermal layer at different paces, as preprogrammed in the underlying living cells and influenced by the environment, e.g. humidity. Such situation might explain differences in the degradation rates between the 'peripheral' and the 'non-peripheral' corneodesmosomes observed during physiological desquamation, as previously suggested by us and others.

Skin cell protection against UVA by Sideroxyl, a new antioxidant complementary to sunscreens.

Oxidative stress resulting from photosensitized ROS production in skin is widely accepted as the main contributor to the deleterious effects of UVA exposure. Among the mechanisms known to be involved in UVA-induced oxidative damage, iron plays a central role. UVA radiation of skin cells induces an immediate release of iron, which can then act as a catalyst for uncontrolled oxidation reactions of cell components. Such site-specific damage can scarcely be counteracted by classical antioxidants. In contrast, iron chelators potentially offer an effective way to protect skin against UVA insults. However, iron chelation is very difficult to achieve without disturbing iron homeostasis or inducing iron depletion. A novel compound was developed to avoid these potentially harmful side effects. Sideroxyl was designed to acquire its strong chelating capability only during oxidative stress according to an original process of intramolecular hydroxylation. Herein, we describe in vitro results demonstrating the protective efficiency of Sideroxyl against deleterious effects of UVA at the molecular, cellular, and tissular levels. First, the Sideroxyl diacid form protects a model protein against UVA-induced photosensitized carbonylation. Second, intracellular ROS are dose-dependently decreased in the presence of Sideroxyl in both human cultured fibroblasts and human keratinocytes. Third, Sideroxyl protects normal human fibroblasts against UVA-induced DNA damage as measured by the comet assay and MMP-1 production. Finally, Sideroxyl provides protection against UVA-induced alterations in human reconstructed skin. These results suggest that Sideroxyl may prevent UVA-induced damage in human skin as a complement to sunscreens, especially in the long-wavelength UVA range.

The in vitro skin irritation of chemicals: optimisation of the EPISKIN prediction model within the framework of the ECVAM validation process.

In view of the increasing need to identify non-animal tests able to predict acute skin irritation of chemicals, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) focused on the evaluation of appropriate in vitro models. In vitro tests should be capable of discriminating between irritant (I) chemicals (EU risk: R38) and non-irritant (NI) chemicals (EU risk: "no classification"). Since major in vivo skin irritation assays rely on visual scoring, it is still a challenge to correlate in vivo clinical signs with in vitro biochemical measurements. Being particularly suited to test raw materials or chemicals with a wide variety of physical properties, in vitro skin models resembling in vivo human skin were involved in prevalidation processes. Among many other factors, cytotoxicity is known to trigger irritation processes, and can therefore be a first common event for irritants. A refined protocol (protocol 15min-18hours) for the EPISKIN model had been proposed for inclusion in the ECVAM formal validation study. A further improvement on this protocol, mainly based on a post-treatment incubation period of 42 hours (protocol 15min-42hours), the optimised protocol, was applied to a set of 48 chemicals. The sensitivity, specificity and accuracy with the MTT assay-based prediction model (PM) were 85%, 78.6% and 81.3% respectively, with a low rate of false negatives (12%). The improved performance of this optimised protocol was confirmed by a higher robustness (homogeneity of individual responses) and a better discrimination between the I and NI classes. To improve the MTT viability-based PM, the release of a membrane damage marker, adenylate kinase (AK), and of cytokines IL-1alpha and IL-8 were also investigated. Combining these endpoints, a simple two-tiered strategy (TTS) was developed, with the MTT assay as the first, sort-out, stage. This resulted in a clear increase in sensitivity to 95%, and a fall in the false-positive rate (to 4.3%), thus demonstrating its usefulness as a "decision-making" tool. The optimised protocol proved, both by its higher performances and by its robustness, to be a good candidate for the validation process, as well as a potential alternative method for assessing acute skin irritation.

Iron chelation can modulate UVA-induced lipid peroxidation and ferritin expression in human reconstructed epidermis.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: As ferritin has been identified as an important factor in antioxidant defense in cultured human skin cells, we evaluated UVA-induced lipid hydroperoxides (LPO) production and ferritin expression in reconstructed human epidermis in vitro. RESULTS: Ferritin is regularly present in the basal layer of unirradiated epidermis both in the human skin in vivo and in the reconstructed human epidermis in vitro. Following acute UVA exposure, ferritin expression increased in basal epidermal cells in both models. Quantitative analysis showed that, in reconstructed human epidermis, LPO and ferritin levels increased linearly with the UVA dose. An iron chelator, OR10141, inhibited these inductions. CONCLUSION: These findings demonstrate that reconstructed human epidermis is a useful in vitro model to study UVA-induced oxidative stress and protection afforded by iron chelators, antioxidants or UVA absorbers.