The use of reconstructed human skin to evaluate UV-induced modifications and sunscreen efficacy.

Biological and clinical effects of sun exposures are characterized by short-term reactions, i.e. sunburn reaction and suntan, as well as long-term consequences corresponding to photoaging and photocancers. We have developed several human in vitro three-dimensional models in order to assess both the photodamage and the photoprotection afforded by sunscreens. Using a full thickness reconstructed skin comprising a differentiated epidermis and a living dermal equivalent, UVB- and UVA-induced biological markers could be found at both the keratinocyte and the fibroblast level. Typical markers of the sunburn reaction could be reproduced in that model as well as dermal damages related to the photoaging process. Another model of reconstructed epidermis, comprising keratinocytes but also melanocytes and Langerhans cells, has been developed. The study of the UV-induced pigmentation as possible using the pigmented reconstructed epidermis and allowing to reproduce the epidermal melanin unit. The assessment of cellular parameters related to UV-induced immunosuppression could be performed using the reconstructed epidermis containing Langerhans cells. Exposure to solar-simulated radiation provokes morphological alterations and the reduction in numbers of Langerhans cells within the exposed epidermis. Using all these models, the efficiency of sunscreens could be envisaged after topical application. The results showed that appropriate sunscreens could efficiently prevent the damage described above.

Keratinocytes control the pheo/eumelanin ratio in cultured normal human melanocytes.

The pheo/eumelanin ratio of cultured normal human melanocytes is distinct from the ratio observed for the same cells in vivo where they are in close contact with keratinocytes. To study the possible involvement of keratinocytes in the control of melanogenesis, we compared quantitatively and qualitatively the melanin production in melanocyte mono-cultures, in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-cultures and in pigmented reconstructed epidermis. Pheomelanin and eumelanin contents were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical and fluorometric detection of their specific degradation products and revealed striking differences in the presence of keratinocytes. In the absence of keratinocytes (melanocyte mono-cultures), we observed a very limited eumelanin production and a very high pheomelanin synthesis. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in mono-cultures could be slightly influenced by changing the composition of the culture medium, however, the very strong imbalance in favor of pheomelanin remained unchanged. An induction of eumelanin synthesis accompanied by an important reduction of pheomelanin formation was only observed in the presence of keratinocytes. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in melanocyte mono-culture dropped from 1043 down to about 25 in the presence of keratinocytes (co-cultures). The same observations were made when the melanocytes were integrated into a reconstructed human epidermis. Interestingly, under co-culture conditions resulting in only a partial contact between melanocytes and keratinocytes, the reduction of the pheo/eumelanin ratio were less pronounced. From these results we conclude that keratinocytes play an important role in the melanin production, affecting the melanogenic pathways.