Stable environmentally sensitive cationic hydrogels for controlled delivery applications.

New thermosensitive, cationic hydrogels were synthesized by the dispersion copolymerization of N-isopropylacrylamide (NIPAM) and (3-acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride (AAPTAC). In the polymerization protocol, an amide-based comonomer, (3-acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride, was reacted as a new alternative monomer for introducing positive charges into the thermosensitive hydrogel. The hydrogels were synthesized without making any pH adjustment in the aqueous medium. These hydrogel particles exhibited colloidal stability in the pH range of 1.5 to 11.0, while similar cationic hydrogels were reported to be unstable at pHs higher than 6. The stronger cationic character of the selected comonomer provided higher colloidal stability to the poly(NIPAM-co-AAPTAC) hydrogels. Furthermore, these hydrogels displayed sensitivity towards temperature, pH, and salt concentration. Interestingly, the particle size of hydrogels was found to be decreased significantly with an increase in temperature and salt concentration. In addition, using pyrene fluorescence spectroscopy, it was established that the hydrophobicity/hydrophilicity of the hydrogel particles was largely controlled by both pH and temperature. The thermosensitive hydrogels reported in this paper may be suitable for delivering different actives for cosmetic and medical applications. Although direct application of these hydrogel particles in cosmetics has not been shown at this stage, the methodology of making them and controlling their absorption and release properties as a function of temperature and pH has been demonstrated. Furthermore, these hydrogels may also have applications in scavenging organic and inorganic toxics.

Effect of hair color on luster.

The effect of color on instrumentally evaluated luster of hair dyed to different colors and depths of shades is studied. For natural hair colors, such as blond, brown, and black, the increase in luster with increasing color is associated with a decrease in diffusely scattered light as a result of light absorption by melanin granules. On dyed hair the interpretation of data from a goniophotometer (GP) is more complicated. Using the colors covering the extremes and middle of the visible spectrum, our results demonstrate how dye composition (single or multicomponent), concentration, and penetration depth into the fiber affect the absorptive and scattering processes within the hair fiber to impact luster. Finally, we make an attempt to study the effect of hair color on subjective evaluation of luster. An equation for perceived luster, taking into account the spectral sensitivity of the human eye is derived. Theoretical considerations show that the luster of hair of different colors is perceived differently by the human eye.

Studies of light scattering from ethnic hair fibers.

One of the most desirable hair attributes to consumers, irrespective of ethnic background, is hair shine. The light reflected from a fiber has two components, specular and diffuse. The specular fraction of reflected light from the front surface of the fiber is generally recognized as a contributor to high luster. The distinction between specular and diffuse reflection is, however, not always clearly defined. In this study an attempt has been made to differentiate between specular and diffuse reflectance by analyzing mathematically goniophotometric curves of light reflected from unaltered single hair fibers from European, African, and Asian ethnic groups. The effect of macroscopic characteristics of the hair fibers, such as fiber diameter, cross-sectional shape, and curvature on luster is demonstrated. Results indicate that broadening of the specular peak reduces luster values, and is related to these characteristics. Thus, specular peak broadening is one of the important features to take into account when evaluating luster. Therefore, a new method for luster evaluation from goniophotometric curves is proposed. Additionally, we present the general model for light scattering, showing how scattering by surface roughness of different origin and magnitudes, and the scattering and absorption processes by the hair's interior, affect the position of the specular reflectance peak and its broadening.